hybrid

Update: TITS!!! P.S it was up to operating temperature before I did this Video link

Video being uploaded

As glenn said its probably just a wiring fault. The best way is to get some diagnostic software onto it and scan the fault codes, they will tell you if your ECU is even on, your EWS and key is functioning properly (also make sure you have the key / chip around the reader coil properly) That happened to us last week until we scanned it and found the EWS complaining about the key not being availible. Once your scan comes back clean then your looking at other things at play. Ill PM you something so you can understand EWS better.

pretty awesome fella! .. weldone! I had some one in the states the other day ask me why Im bothering with trying to get EWS going and why I didnt just pay someone to align it for me. I just told them, well yeah you can do that and not learn a thing. I like you attitude to this whole project, work out how to do it yourself and stick to your guns. again, hat off to you sir. much respect from this end of the woods.

Hmmmm interesting, I like the idea of that. What PIC is he using ? Im actually keen on programming some other automation in with it. interesting ... I have all north island 98 octane gas stations that im going to inject in!

don't you think you'd just stall it in the car park? Not too sure tuners would appreciate 6000rpm with launch control in the lot I can see it now ... a line of people trying to get it going. *doh! fuel pump circuit breakers!*

They do it, they would prefer not to and its very expensive per wheels as their is a lot of work involved. I saw one being done while I was there however he said it was fighting him the whole way and he said he going to have to charge more for doing it in the future as its really is lots of work. Almost makes it not a viaible option.

They would make someone a very happy camper. I was actually looking into buying that car at one point

hehe you and me both brother ..

oh my ... what a nice P54B20!

I think im going to get my e30 tool kit anodised black or something. Just for extra radness

very impressive! .. will be such the unsuspecting torque monster on uphill over takes.

haha is going to look awesome! spin, file the edges to remove curbbage then polish those lips before you chuck tires on them. Will look awesome!

The 330i

Yeah auckland is a bit different I guess, roads are fairly close here but you still want to see what major turns are coming up when navigating. 200m is a good mix of the both. I find the nav hag quite good, gets you judging 500meters / 100 meters quite well

For the best zoom level. Use 500 meters on open road / 100kph zones. Use 200 meters for around town. Use 100 meters when you get close to your destination. Use 20Kms etc for seeing how far away from a township on open road.

Let me know where you get it flocked please keen to see the result as I wouldnt mind doing it to mine.

That screen you posted is from a MK3 nav computer (notice the circle vehicle icon and the fact its not in 'anti-aliasing' graphics. The youtube one is the mkIV screen. Again, without a photo of the nav computer we can't confirm anything.

hell no. They are 5x114.3 taken out to 5x120. I have a 5 lug conversion. Update. More wiring (12 hours of it) and connecting up of misc stuff like booster air lines etc. What a day yesterday was. EWS is a steap learning curve, We started out but checking the loom and electrical diagrams for the e30 and e36. by about lunch time we had found that the pin 15 voltage problem actually wasn't a problem at all. Its just that the e30 doesnt have an EGS/IKE/etc to put 12 volts down the line back to the diagnostic port. So we jumpered it across from another ECU pinout. The pin is only used to tell the diagnostic equipment that the ECU and modules is present and accounted for. With that problem out of the way and confirmed, we could suddenly take reading from the ECU. YAY! however we were having issues addressing the EWS. So back to the diagrams. I noticed while I was looking that the EWS unit we had only had 'EWS' written on it. I asked ray to check his 2000 M-Coupe and it had EWS III written on it. AHA! we had an EWS I unit, crap. SO out we went to search for an EWS II + key. again turned out to be a bit of a mission. We had worked out they (EWS II) were only produced between 95 and 97 so finding something was going to be hard. We searched all 5 series and 3 series cars and finally found one in a 318ti. Awesome, so here we go again. (the sun was going down at this point) Plugged in the EWS II and got a different bunch of error messages saying the EWS unit couldn't find the key. YAY! at least the GT1 computer had found the EWS module. Brendon had read somewhere that you need to make sure the key is in the right position, so he adjusted it, we cleared the fault codes and tried again. Success! Cool so were not had a working system ready to code. Brendon and I complete n00bs with progmanSSS ray made a 8:30pm on a saturday phone call to the dealer and he explained the start proceedure. Reading all instructions and linking up extra batteries for constant current while programming, we set off to code. message: you need atleast 13 volts to performing coding Crap! .. time to bring in a running vehicle and jumper cables. right now we had 13 volts. We could now code. We tried and tried and tried but go stuck at the need part number for replacement module screen. so at 10:30pm we decided to call in a night. We are going to look at using my carsoft software as its not so anal about part numbers etc etc and has a simple function to just align DME -> EWS. So will give that a go. Once the EWS is aligned the car sould just start.

Its going to be a rocket.

A friend of mine paid about 2k for a set of tires for his m3 @ 18 / 35. I just can't justify it.

you have two profiles .. 35% or 40% when running bigger wheels on e30's 35's are very expensive and hard to get @ 18 inch for lower width (235/225) so 40% is the best price point and in my view performance on NZ roads. the trade off with those sizings is it slightly skims the inner guard on lock. Even with offset control arm bushes / eyeball arms.

Sorry I was talking for 18's .. 17's are a different story. On the front you have inner guard mods to do to the rear and inner (engine side) faces. Just a minor tweak but mods none the same.

Im running 30 offset on the wheels with 15mm spacers to bring the front to 15 offset. I also run 1.5 to 2 degrees of camber. on the rear I run a different setup, its an m-coupe trailing arm which has a slightly sider track, Im also about to run 9.5 on the rear @ 32 offset. 8.5 is fine if you get the offsets right and are prepared for a little panel work.

thats awesome ... would saved me hours!