hybrid

How did you get on with testing yours Troy ?

Not sure, I used a spare press fit 8 gauge earth wire. However I would recommend testing it yourself first to see if you even have any issues. Bring your coolant up to temperature (around 80 degrees) and open the radiator cap carefully. It shouldn't be pressurized yet .. take a multimeter and put the positive into the coolant and negative onto some where on the radiator. Measure your voltage from there.

OEM radiators are manufactured a lot differently that a full alloy custom radiator. Probably why the press fit plastic end tanks to get around the issue the problem is the lead braising in the core fins.. it gets eaten by the electrolysis and leaks. Apples with apples and all that. I have a strong feeling this is why there is so much crap on the net. People get confused easily by drawing conclusions. People like me looking for real answers get lead astray.

Yup .. I followed advise I was given at the time of install (Not you Atta ) Like trying to find anything solid on the interwebs .. its mostly full of s**t and full of people who think they know what they're talking about ... But when it comes down to it they're confused and got it off the next confused person. However to be fair these days there is less confused information around. EG the Denso whitepaper I posted earlier. Reading 3pedals post made me stop and break it down to basics to actually work out what was going on. That and creating a solid test which I could conduct easily over and over to do before and after comparisons. That and talking to someone who is actually an expert (my father) and not an automotive person. Basically, there are two fixes needed for this. Chemically and electrically. Chemically by reducing the risk of creating a battery by using demineralised water and in my case switching to known good BMW coolant mix and electrically removing the ability for it to be a battery by grounding the radiator to the chassis which is acting as the anode (+) .. the engine as the cathode (-) standing voltage = gone. In my case remember Ironblock s50 and alloy radiator ... this is a pretty extreme case. Most hotrodders will run a brass radiator not alloy to get around the issue.

Looks like a good deal.

Installed the new radiator this weekend ... Before: 0.45volts hot with tap water and standard quality coolant After: New radiator, demineralised water and BMW coolant on 2:1 mix actually increased the voltage hot to nearly 1volt!. Measured from the coolant and the radiator. When I looked inside the old radiator I had noticed that the inside was anodised black .. and therefor not conducting as well and the brand new radiator.. This explained the voltage increase. I wanted to data log it but the current was playing havoc with other sensors so just rigged up a multimeter to the radiator instead and drove around and took readings. Solution: First I tested what happened if I used a small wires and grounded it to the chassis .. boom, down came the voltage to 0.002v perfect .. So now have run an earth strap onto the radiator to eliminate the voltage build up in the radiator. This has been a very enlightening experience and while loosing a chunk of cash down the toilet I have learnt a lot. Just got off the phone with the old man who's an industrial electrical engineer and done some pretty far out stuff in his time confirmed everything I found and even said that he found it strange that I had isolated the radiator in the first place!

Yes Jon ... bout time some of you race boys started a dam build thread!

haha awesome! good stuff.

oh god ... I spose I better. Its been a long while Platform: PC Handle: [nts]nemisis or [wtf]nemisis or Xaos back in the day Games: BF1942, Desert Combat

Wow haven't checked into this thread in a while .. that is one very very well done e36.. the whole package. haha I had my eye on those wheels at rays for the e39 .. rang ray up and he told me youd been in lol

yeah the sill touches the hump in the second photo when the back wheel sinks into the grate

Thanks guys .. Ive also thought about grinding the footpath and driveway hump down too. It might be a case of doing lots of things to get around the problem. kiwi535 I think I will also try raising the grate a little in the frame. havent worked out with what. But I think flipping it and building up the grate frame about 1/2 and inch might be the ticket. While I dont have a problem reversing .. the wife will do so would like to go forwards both ways. Im sure the e30 will be fine as it is actually higher than the 540 and shorter wheel base.

It big enough for the 540 however you cant take a swing at it as the neighbour has a concrete gate post stopping a full go at it (tried that one)

Thanks .. done

Hi guys, Just bought a house *yay* ... the e30 managed to survive the purchase process however the house I have has this in the driveway entrance. The 540 is quite long .. and the rear wheel on the drivers side sinks into the drain grate and because of its length the sills touch the concrete path. Legally I know metal ramps are a bit of a no no with the council .. but wondering what things people have done to get around similar issues ? Im looking at for a start turning the grate upside down to see if that makes a difference. Prefer not to have to shell out for a new drive entrance .. but will do that as a last resort.

Nice man! .. looks reallllllly clean. Do what andy did .. Ireland 3.1 m20 stroker with ported head and cams. Fast engine.

Cool. You want 0-5volt ratiometric powered sensors for pressure and temp. Standard hall effect for speed and tacho You're probably looking at the following and a minimum. **Needed Oil Temp Oil Pressure Coolant Temp Boost Pressure Fuel Pressure Intake Temp Throttle Postion Speed Signal Clutch Switch **Optional Diff & gearbox temps Brake Pressure via string pot or just have a pressure sensor tapped into the brake lines (this is better). AFR via wideband EGT Battery Voltage Would be interested to see what the MAP2 is capable of outputting and in what format. The MSS50 has around 25 ouputs and I bump that up with a few external sensors. Youll probably be having to do most of it with your own sensors.

BMW to start with then to other applications .. (mitsi, slowbaru etc) Sweet.. Let catch up and we can plan it out.. You'll be the first stand alone test system .. so I will have to re code everything for analogue and probably build a special interface for your tachometer. Good thing is it should make it faster? Gear selection is calculated ... Around 16 analogue and 16 digital. Facebook me and we can take it from there.

let us know how you get on ... just bought a house so wont be looking at this till the holiday period (fun times moving) but will post results.

Yeah thats the plan. I have different product plans for pro cars.

Enjoy http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LZgsJsALoqQ&feature=share&list=PLA6810C064D3E7494

Thats the million dollar question. It entirely depends on testing output and sourcing of reliable materials and accessories EG the curly chord isn't an easy thing to find .. im using old phone chord as its very durable. But with the world going wireless its not easy finding good quality for a reasonable price. Oh the joys of productionising and quality control ! Example: Those buttons on prototype #2 are $20 each ... They're the real deal used on all f1 and gt3 cars .. but that's a lot of budget on some buttons.

haha .. sorry phil got that mixed up with a set she did.

cheers At the moment its only build for the BMW DS2 protocol. Unfortunately OBDII is too slow .. but I could support it. It currently supports 5 volt sensor input and digital 5volt signal. Such as Oil pressure, clutch switch and brake pressure etc. Things like a tach signal would have to be converted from 12volts. I'm planning of having a config file on the root of the SDcard which can be read. Youll be able to set input config and calculation on that. Im planning to support various BMWs to start with then move to stand alone + aftermarket CAN/Serial output ECU such as the link. There is a whole bunch more planned but one thing at a time first.

about 9hz .. however the limitation at the moment is writing to the SD card so about 5z.