_ethrty-Andy_

My scanner reads off fault codes generated by the modules. unfortunately, (or fortunately depending on perspective), there are none from the EWS or ECU. Its a wiring thing somewhere else

Getting to the stage where i seem to be going backwards with this thing a few weeks ago the car cranked solidly as anything and it was a case of sorting out the EWS and it would be done and drivable by now. Unfortunately something has come up and i have no idea where to look. Since the car cranked solidly last time, the only wires i have touched are adding one wire to the DME from the EWS, telling the EWS the car is in Park (ECU/EWS etc from an ex auto car, M52 loom from a manual), and connecting up the fuel rate on the gauge cluster (i know that wont be accurate but i wanted it anyway). Reverting back to my old loom adaptor (thereby deleting these connections again) does not go back to how the car was. Now when i apply 13.5V to the battery and put the key in the ignition and turn to ON (with the use of either my original adaptor or my second one with the extra connections), the main relay clicks open and closed reletively quickly with the speed that stock E30s make when there is insuffcient battery power. The ICV does not open/turn on, and is probably due to the main relay clicking open and closed. When i turn the key to start, the main relay stops clicking, and, other than that, the car makes no physical responce what so ever, except that the voltage across the battery drops to between 2 and 5V. Things I have checked - continuity/resistance between positive on battery and positive on starter - ditto for negative, including via ground strap - The ignition wire to the starter receives the virtually the full 13.5V when key is turned to start - Motor is not seized or otherwise unable to move, can be turned over easily by hand - To the best i have been told by other people, all of my wiring matches that of other OBD2 E30s, including those the same as mine - All relays in the fusebox/M52 loom are in working condition, and all fuses are good (because i dont know off the top of my head which relay is which (except obviously the main relay) i tested them all) I cannot think of any other reason why this should not be running now, neither can the main contacts i have been using for this swap, and i cant find anything on the internet relating to this issue. Anyone have any ideas?

WIN

check the Qs and As on it too, same guy (BMW_M5) shitting all over the auction as on the E36 M3

Not yet. will post when it is. In an ideal world that would be me too. Im sure it could be achieved in less than that tbh. Because its clear that the people asking havent actually read my real build thread, I will tell you why it isnt. Unfortunately i had time pressures to get the engine mounted into the car because i couldnt leave the car at my lock up for more than a few weeks because i had a bus renting the space my car was sitting in which was returning from a holiday or repairs or something. You know how much of a PITA the gearbox is to get at, and there was no point pulling the gearbox to fix/replace when its going to be replaced again in less than 6 months time. Since the engine has been installed, its pretty much been the research when i can be bothered and sweet f**k all else. This is why its taken 3 months and not 4 days. I actually have no need for a car at the moment anyway so its not like its an annoyance i dont have it. Thats true

^ check the Qs and As

after a bumper to modify, so the cheaper the better. not interested in mint condition examples as i would kill myself for modifying one. bolt on/off (same as OEM mounting) fiberglass replica would be ideal. Failing that, anyone know where i could get my authentic tech2 bumper/valence cloned to fiberglass in wellington region? Edit: any colour is fine, Diamante Schwartz would be perfect though

^^ wish id seen that BEFORE i had 24V in the way! i dont think that panel will be anle to come off now! (not that ive tried!) looks reletively straight forward though. might give it a crack anywho

^+2

looks like you have decided to keep it anyway, but removing the oil cooler is a piece of cake if you are still interested in doing that. you just need a lug out of the side of a non cooler M20 and screw that into the side of the block where the cooler housing thing attaches, and then attach a new filter to that. 10 minute job tops (excluding draining/refilling oil)

cheaper to import one lol

they do that because some people search for cars localy and so if its listed in hamilton only, the people in christchurch wont see it in thier results, even though the company is happy to sell it via the Chch branch

says 80kg on the website you posted a link to. I investigated because i always wondered what the max load rating was

very nice much jealously!

yeah its probably not hard to make the strip at all. it was the cluster rings i was more interested in, he just so happened to do the tach strips as well. looks like ill get the shitty plastic ones off trademe instead and make a trip to warehouse stationairy.

they look the same as mine. aren't the strongest things in the world. they sagged under my body weight and im only 65kg... just a headsup to anyone considering using these other than for visual purposes. No wind noise till about 80km/h though (unladen of course) which is pretty good

erghhhh most of you that have said your intereseted have probably forgotten about these anyway and/or wondering where your PMs are from me, but so you know, after the person im getting them off said could supply as many as i needed, hes run out of them and has also since changed his mind and wont ship outside the US anyway due to a couple of failed/lost in transit shipments to the UK. tried talking him into it but he reckons its not worth it etc. Seeing as they got lost he probably doesnt pack them very well anyway. typical.. the one time its ME that does a group buy it falls through. If anything changes ill let you know

my eyes hurt. but epic

Just completed a honda stereo mounting bracket. stock bracket bent in the vice 90 degrees, angle grinder to make room for the plug, 4 zip ties, and some elastic support. it doesnt get much better (or worse than that haha)

should say on a sticker on the left front strut inside the engine bay

good work man!

your in for a hell of a time if you want to retain the engine in the configuration its in now. If you have little patience/time then convert the engine to OBD1. If you want a real challenge with and lots of time and patience, keep OBD2. Im happy to lend a hand if you go for the latter option. (btw you can click my signature to go to my build thread below if you want. Im just about to update it so come back in half an hour if you want some pointers on wiring)

Patience is more important than tools or anything else for a full OBD2 conversion, closely followed by research. I know it will all be worth it in the end

so you have seen a different one before? id never heard of/seen one before!

been tempted to of course! but for obvious reasons thats not a good idea. Theres a reason why it doesnt go, and push starting it doesnt solve the problem of the starter not being friendly