_ethrty-Andy_

if i posted all the rangi things ive done over the years (all 'ill fix that properly later' things, which i have for the most part) id run out of characters? *Volvo lip cut using a belt sander and then zip tied on (since replaced with tech2) *underdash wiring i used packing tape for insulation (since redone) *sub and amp wiring 'tidyed up' using twistieties (the one time i run out of zip ties is the one time id be using them for what they were desgined for!). also since redone *various bolts lost and left unattached. get replacements from the yards for free *etc... also various cases of not so much rangi, but not having the correct tools on hand and improvising. never been unable to get a job done using a jack, a 200piece socket set, a bfh and a hack saw LML

had them lined up but didnt purchase because i was going to try and use something else i had lying around which wont work and the seller has since parted with them. Am after both the top and bottom M50E34 rad hoses, prefer local but whatever. Thanks! Edit also after a 318i/is thermostat (the lower temp version, sorry i forgot the temp! anyone who has one should know). was ment to come with the rad i got but i just noticed its not there.

if you havent got one, go to an engineering tools shop. only place i could find that had them. mine cost me about $20 i think

edit whoops you want PM

did someone post this a few weeks back? if this isnt the same one ill sign it again.. even though i dont live in aucks

+1 on avoiding street spec kings. havent used them in the rear but i used to run fronts and i found them too soft. car seemed just as prone to body roll despite being 50mm or so lower

well ive done that on my moms 05 mazda and a few other late models to sucess, not just my E30. but i guess late bimmers have more systems to go wrong. cheers for the headsup

used sucsessfully multiple times for mine and others. is it because its a late model that its different? will edit if so.

V=IR -> 12/0.02= 600ohms. check your resistances across your battery terminals (removed from battery) if its quite a bit less than 600ohms, pull fuses untill it shoots back up to around the 600 mark. that curcuit will be the one with the leak on it. you can then go from there. thats how i would go about finding a leak remeber to get the code for your radio/obc if you dont already have it before disconnecting the battery

^^ can vouch for that. i know of a few state side cars running 400k miles. yes.. miles

do it!! What gearbox does this car run?

found this in my late night trademe surf. might be of use to someone as a spare? Pickup only (Chch) unfortunately, or id get if for my room Edit: Link here http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-278159442.htm

your right on both accounts. i would bet on it being a UK import too may be of use here http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/comm...ft_or_right.svg colours are self explainatory

ive got a 13b in mine

fyi they will fit 320i too. if you needed spacers to clear 45mm struts there is no way they will clear 51mm struts. 5mm spacer installed or not

didnt guess he brought your car, but i had a hunch you brought this! will be awesome!

^^ i did that in 4th form lol. but yeah id go for the iS. i was in a similar situation a few years ago. Gut instinct ftw

yum!

bugger! did the engine not come from a running car?

cluster could be sweet its probably the batteries in it. plan of attack for that is i would get some new batteries for it, install, see if it makes a difference, and if not get another cluster verify it works and then but the new batteries you just brought into it for preventative maintenance' sake

pmub

as in windscreen? No Edit:forgot we dont quote on this forum

have you had the gaurds on and off? they could be sitting too high. i have had the same issue and once i thought of the gaurds being too high rather than the bonnet too low i sorted it

my moms Mazda MPV had japanese childrens stickers and a food wraper in the rear passengers compartment... MAF/customs fail

bugger!