_ethrty-Andy_

thanks for sharing. Miss my calypso V12 swapped touring. that dark blue is very nice tho

wow thats very tempting.......

$8-10 a liter is normal price. thats why 320i arent very economical, because they burn more oil than they do petrol

Driving back to Wellington from Auckland in a couple days. not fussed if sport or non-sport bumper. must be silver otherwise will just fix up and repaint what i already have. anything available ? text preferred, 0273079322 edit: whoops its the right front im looking for

i think they are on my car. They are specific to M3 and need the king pin and all.

I always find it funny when people get excited about tax refunds. If you'd like a bigger refund in 2021, you can pay me $30 a week for no reason, and ill give you back $1500 or so after a year.... Ill get to use your money interest free in the mean time!

yep, two more days in quarentine in auckland and then im free. I see you are back too now! when did you move home ?

Thanks for that. I have an X5 M62, E30 M20 and E30 M52 all needing oil and filter changes waiting for me in when i get back to the Hutt!

ohhhhhh boy.

it will have no mechanical lock (thats what you are overcoming when you do it) and will back out. im sure your one experience of one car is better tho.

Up until January this year, I used to work at a ZF authorised repairer in Toronto. We did do the seals frequently, but is not included in a standard service, and a full fluid exchange is never recommended. The filter is built into the pan, and are one time use. once you crack the drain plug, it cannot be done back up again. if the oil coming out smells like burnt caramel or has excessive flakes around the magnet then dont waste your oil and seals, you are about to be rebilding the whole thing anyway.

farkin awesome mate, i cant wait to see it in the flesh at this years E30 Megameet in Ohakune, if not sooner!!

i got mine from Mag and Turbo in the Hutt many years ago, but id imagine any mag and turbo branch would have them. You do need to go to a non-hex head though, eg a locknut style. Also, worth noting that they should not be aluminium, especially so if your car is going to be subsequently certified.

its a brake disk Glenn. there is no BMW specific procedure compared to any other mass produced vehicle.

yes you are right about usb to serial adaptors not working. they dont. your car was built way before usb was a thing, and the software for your car cannot support it. Glow plugs will make a cold start hard, but are never needed on a warm start, so sounds like your issues are else where. My engine was owned by @melowpuf before be, and he replaced the intake manifold gaskets with a cut out profile of a Lion Red box (Lion Brown would have been better but too top shelf for him i suspect), so i assume a sound seal here is also not the end of the world. I revert back to my previous post. its a fuelling issue you have. you might need to look at getting your injection pump rebuilt. while you are at it, you might like to look at porting and upgrading it so you can up the boost as well, if you are that way inclined. once it is a sewing machine when warm, then look at your hard start, if it is still present. you say you replaced the glow plugs already, so the only other component is the glow plug relay.

this thread has been reported for no price please Brent

same plates. plates are assigned to the individual rather than the car in most if not all of north america, so just a bit of paper work to shift from one to the other. quite funny when you see a 2019 whatever with old rusty plates issued in the 90s on it. or they had a serieas in the early Bxxx that all delaminate so not uncommon to see plates with most of the letters or numbers peeled away.

i guessed BA coon as well .

Well about time for another update. First is conceeding that i need some more time to get the E30 back on the road, and with the missus coming back from Florida and needing her car back, this post will go on a quick E38 tangent before coming back to the E30. i decided to go for the 740iL i posted above. I probably would have looked about for another car, but my friends 540i manual that i mentioned above (and in pics below) is starting to get rattly timing chains. he is a bit tighter than me, so instead of fixing what he has its more cost effieicent for him to throw a good motor at it, so thats probably what will happen to this 7 in a few months. By and large, it actually has been looked after well, with a very large stack of reciepts, and underneath there is no rust as it has been rust proofed regularly. only mod this car will get is at least people will know its a crusty old 7 now. and another Petrol station pic, the novelty still hasnt worn off quite how cheap petrol is here, despite Ontarian's thinking its expencive now. only thing i actually had to do to the 740iL to make it good was i needed to replace the rubber bushing that held the throttle cable to the brace bracket, as the one on it had turned into plastic from heat and 24 years, and was holding the throttle at about 2k rpm. and also reset the traction control and SRS system from a low voltage fault from the past. Right. Back to the E30. Went to install the subframe back in, and the damn thing wouldnt line up. as it turned out, because of the rusty brace brackets mentioned in previous post, the old subframe bush had cracked and left some of it behind. Sort of hard to explain unless you are familiar with the E30, but the top aluminum piece in the photos was basically cracked off and left behind inside the chassis. I knocked the bolt out, it is splined, and enters into the body from under the rear seat on all E30s (except cabby IIRC). i then drilled it out with an appropriate sized drill bit, 25mm from memory. bit of a hassle, but eventually got sorted, and installed the subframe into place, connecting up drive shaft, brake lines, sway bar, exhaust etc, and for now, leave the blown right shock in place, and have not dealt with the rusty spring seat either. will come back to those things. the week prior, a friend from New Zealand came over for a week, before going to the US and then coming back for last week. And in thier case was a few of gods owns finest, for me to enjoy. Cool so finally getting somewhere with this car right !! Wrong. Go back to that previous shot showing the brake caliper, and see if you notice anything different about it. In all the time working around it, i didnt even notice. yup the bleed screw. wtf. someone has replaced it with an actual bolt at some point, and not just any bolt, but gone through the hassle of boring out and tapping a new hole with a larger thread. you can imagine the frustration when i went to bleed up the brakes. Ill be honest. i did actually try and make do with what i had, but just wasnt going to happen. So of course, need to get a new caliper. Silver lining was i managed to find a guy that was clearing out his moms place, managed to pick up a pair of calipers, and also spotted a pair of used Bilstein shocks in the garage. the lot, mine for $80 so cant complain at that. i didnt take any pic of bleeding process as i had a few mates around to help me, but here is a pic of the rear subframe finally all in properly. Ill need to come back to sorting that spring seat, and also still to extract the rusty bolts from those brackets so i can install them with new bolts, but yeah. Finally can drop the rear, and jack the front back up, and get to that steering linkage. managed to pull that out, and yeah nah its not for me. one orientation is completely siezed up. the other orientation has the play i noticed. so only one of 4 caps is actually doing what its supposed to. I couldnt see any retainer circlips on the inside or outside, so not totally sure how it works. almost looks like they are inserted and then the aluminimum itself is scored to hold them in, as a one use solution. unfortuantely, the part is NLA from BMW, and try as i might, i cannot find anywhere in Europe or New Zealand, i have hunted high and low. it is specific to right hand drive facelift non power steering, so a needle in a hay stack. yes i did consider installing power steering, and really, i probably should. but anyhow, i dropped it off to be rebuilt today. Only other thing to add is my neighbour has cool friends: just cant get a break with this damn car. and summer is going to be mostly over by the time its sorted. WAYYYY more work than i ever guessed, and if i had known, would never had brought it. But it was brought with my usual "she'll be right" attitude, and ive got it now, so might as well keep going!

i dont recall trying it. i didnt really drive that car about all that much.

pretty sure the aerial is in the rear glass not the front, with all the modules behind the C Pillar trim. maybe i am thinking of E38/E39 tho. but even on E46 cabby they have a whip antannea abd the wagons are in the left side window so...

Right, well a few evenings spent on the car, and then today being Saturday just a wee bit more. Front jacked up in the air, to remove the lower steering linkage. Didnt take any pics of this sorry. Has a lot of play in one of the two universals so it is out so i can rebuild it. got it half out and realised it is a wierd universal i havent seen before, and i havent had expereince rebuilding one before. When you do an M52 swap, or indeed any motorswap, its necessary part of the conversion on a Right hand drive car. typically you would also convert to an E36 or E46 steering rack too. What i usually do is remove and drop it all off an Howatt Engineering in Naenae to do, so i havent had experience doing it. still deciding if i tackle it or find a shop to do it. Remove the right front wheel as it has a puncture in it. Jack up the rear, move the left rear wheel to the right front. Temp bolt on right front to the left rear. Lower Jack. Get front off Jack stands and onto the two good tyres, jack up the back, and remove both rear wheels. the right rear, and the left rear (which was the right front) both have punctures / slow leaks, so those into the 500 to get sorted out. Start on removing the Subframe. Right off the bat, i knew this was going to offer up some surprises. subframe removal on an E30 is usually a piece of piss. 1,5 hour job max. I was advised by a local "buddy" (canadian for m9) to start on the rustiest stuff first so you know how your day is going to go, and also buy a flame torch, it will be your new best friend, so i brought a propane torch, (quite right in hind sight, awesome tool. no pics of it but you will probably see it in the back ground of the below picks) right then, crack off the subframe main bolts then. the 22s came off easy, to get to the 8mm allan bolts for the support i needed to half remove the side skirt. and bam, just like that, 5 minutes in, first problem. on the left hand side, one bolt completely snapped off (prior), on the right hand side, both had gone, so bracket offering no support at all. Okay, no problem, i can order that. removed the brackets so i had them on hand for ordering (there are two types so good to make sure you get the right ones, and then just put a few threads onto the 22 and gently loosened the subframe so i knew it would come away. cool. Move on to the exhaust which comes off easily, then remove heat shielding and then the drive shaft bolts. i wasnt really thinking, this stuff should be easy since the car has had an engine conversion, so not 30 years old, none the less, needed to be done. next step, remove the lower shock bolts. easy enough, but found the right rear shock is totally blown. i have never seen a shock with zero resistance before until now so thats up for replacement. and then disconnect sway bar, and then remove the spring. Here is the the bad news... spring on the left comes out just like normal. one on the right falls out, with the upper locating pin still in the spring. wtf. look a bit more carefully and what do we have here. picks taking after probing about with a screw driver. whats worse is there is f**king gorilla foam in there so someone knew it was there and did a bodgy... not happy, but such is life. fortunately the body seems to be alright, but the lower piece is no longer avalable from BMW. i did actually think about using the head from a jack as a replacement, as it would be a perfect shape..... Move on to loosening the diff mount. at first i was like wtf somone has put an imperial bolt in... never mind, some of the bolt head crumbled away, turns out it was a 19 all along... also loosened the brake lines and ABS sensors (yes it has ABS, the E30 was the second BMW to have ABS after the E28 5 series), and was happy the assembly was ready to come out. In the shower cleaning up i realised i forgot the hand brake cable so will do that when i get back to it. Right off topic for a bit, but what i been up to none the less. (goes back to E30 soon!!) next day, decided i better work on the Cinquecento since i did say i would do it while missus is away. It hasnt locked since she got it , that was a door card off and a tiny black clip that wasnt seated right, and back on and good to go. and onto replacing the rear brake pads. "babe my car is making a bit of a grinding noise in the back recently" take it to work and barely got out of the street before i knew the brake pads had all they had to give taken and then some..... have you ever seen brakes so smol?? realised the 500 was the same bolt pattern and center bore very close as the E30 so why not chuck them on for a nosey...... Local constabulary dropped by for a yarn. they either drive Ford Expeditions (think Escalade or Suburban size), or they ride Harleys. and they are called the OPP here. every time i hear that i cant help but think of the irony since OPP also means Other peoples property in the rap song from like the 90s, which of course gets in my head every time. Strawberry then got a detail down at work. in the back ground is the CN tower, and the yellow building is the pub i sometimes go to after work. and yes going off topic so will come back to what you came here for lol. We are up to today now. Subframe removed. Crusty old bushings. nasty, Now normally you would press these out properly. I do have the proper BMW in my garage, but thats 14,000km away and cost about $450 or so to buy. since i expect this to be the only time i do this job, i decided to do it the Hori way. its pretty well documented that this way works, and i had everything i needed already to try it so thought why not. FIRE I would imagine this would work for many of you guys so i will detail the process. 1/ Turn on Rock Music 2/ Grab a can of low rent beer, or something someone else has left in your fridge. 3/ Soak bushes in WD40. 4/ Make sure your partner is not home, and if pre planned, buy her some new oven trays because you will be using two of hers. 5/ aim gas torch at bushes. how long it takes them to start going depends on your flame. mine took a good 2 or 3 minutes of heat before they would stay alight on thier own. keep the loose stuff clear by flicking it out onto the tray. remember, the objective isnt to burn every last bit of rubber, just to remove the bush. When they start popping and crackling, they are hot enough to keep going on thier own. Once they are lit, have some of the beer. Man has created Fire. after your second one is lit, go back to the first, you will find the center part has melted enough you can clear out and knock out the center with a screw driver or some such. bear in mind that the flame will increase at this point as a lot more rubber is exposed to oxygen. the center piece that falls out onto your tray you can put out using some of your rubbish beer. Eventually the outer race or whatever its called for a bushing cannot withhold gravity and will fall out by itself, giving you a nice empty housing (well after you clean up the last little bits) On to the control arm bushings. basically the same process although they are only an inner and rubber with no outer on an E30. they will start spewing themselves out, three of mine spat the center out by themselves, one needed a bit of persuasion. next step is let them cool. its probably lunch time by now anyway. then press in your new bushings. on an E30, the subframe bushings do not go in all the way to the collar. they are only supposed to go as far as the top of the housing is level with the top of the rubber part of the bush. in hind sight the photo i took isnt the best, but if you look at 4 o clock in the photo you will see its level. 2 oclock is still down as its got an indicator on it. this means there will be a 10 mm or so gap at the bottom. you will find that they wont want to go any further as they flare. Originally, this was designed so it could be leveled in situ, but even BMW removed that from the service advisory, the part was never updated. as a side note, if you were to do poly bushings, they do not have this gap, so you MUST fit E36 compact lower braces (the rusty brackets i mentioned above) which are stepped rather than flat. trailing arms arent complicated at all, if you have a brain. One of the great things about Canada is that the weather and the seasons are very decisive. if it snows, it snows. if its sunny, its 30 degrees (as it was this morning). and if it suddenly gets cold and there is a clap of thunder, you have about 20 minutes to pack your sh*t up and get inside before god turns on the hose. so quickly threw the subframe back together with the new bushes, packed up and got my ass inside. I was intending to take photos of the assembly together, and also one showing the trailing arm bushes . VERY IMPORTANT to just do one or two threads on the trailing arms to the subframe so they are very obviously loose. this is because they must only be tightened when the suspension is loaded. This applys to all BMWs, and most probably all cars in general. this also applys to contral arm bushings in many models. I will try to remember to take pictures tomorrow. and then a pic of me when i saw myself in the mirror. LOL i guess it was all that black smoke!!!! 'til next time

it was in England for a bit, and also being a 316 it should have a clock where the tacho is too. i doubt its the original cluster for the car. one day i will remove and check the vin on the back to be sure.

its always either KM only, or dual MPH/KM. there was no MPH only option

One day , my coupe would be ideal