Ahmedsinc

370mm? Jeebus, thats somewhere around a 13 1/2" width! What the hell did they come off?! Will make handy crash pads in the shed but!

Well, this turned into a clusterf**k quicker than I thought it would I'm popping out for more popcorn, can someone save my seat please??

Somewhere on the end tanks of the radiator there will be two clock - like symbols indicating the build date of the radiator. One will give you the month and the other the year - if the year indicator says 01 or 02 then I'd be tempted to leave the car parked up until you complete the cooling system refresh. Be sure to replace the hoses leading off to the heater valve, & there are two solid plastic pipes tucked under the intake manifold that need to be done at the same time. Access is really awkward unfortunately but it needs to be done. Good luck, try not to lose your patience with it - they're a good little motor when they're cared for properly

You'll get not argument from me than the pushrod V8s so loved by many have been technologically outdated for decades now. Even the advent of direct injection aint gonna change that. My qualm with the new stuff is longevity & reliability. From what I've read the N series of engines seem to be good for 160,000km before they're so worn as to be uneconomic to rebuild. And there really is no comparison between the new Alpha chassis and the current M cars. Both designed and set up for markets so hopelessly different as to make it impossible to evenly compare them together. For me, at least, it comes down to something that doesn't try to kill me if I approach a corner at speed combined with a reliable power plant that makes me giggle like a twit on NO.

Unfortunately the plastics that are used in the cooling system have a VERY finite lifespan. Once they've gone sufficiently brittle from the heat cycles they just collapse, usually while driving leading to a large steamy puddle of "oh sh*t". As mentioned earlier, these engines really don't tolerate getting too warm, so spend a few dollars now and save a bunch of grief in the future. Pelican parts is a great place to source OEM equivalent parts for reasonable prices - just remember to factor in GST on arrival if you spend more than $400 in one go. Auto tranny servicing is something best left to the pros, replacing fluid is not an easy task, same goes for AC repairs too.

Most of the issues around these lie with leaks in the intake system from failed components. If the cooling system hasn't been done yet do it now - stick to OEM parts, the aftermarket stuff is frequently poor quality. If these engines overheat they tend to pull the head bolts back out of the block - being an all alloy engine its a death sentence. Budget around a grand for the overhaul if youre capable of doing it yourself - radiator, water pump, all hoses, reservoir, viscous fan coupling and genuine coolant. Plenty of good guides on the web, can be done in a day on your own. Aside from minor electrical niggles (which you'll have with every car) the window regulators do tend to die young-ish. Be kind with routine servicing (correct grade oil is essential) and have the trans serviced by a pro & it will give you many years of enjoyable driving. I have a 530i wagon as a daily for the wife & kids, great car.

Watching my nearly 3 year old son go absolutely bananas as an E36 M3 goes full sideways through a corner on the Maioro stage of the Targa Bambina yesterday. World class motorsport less than 4 minutes drive from my home. Sweet!

Only critique of this is the oddball triple 'zorst tips. And thats being needlessly picky Seriously though, being one of Barries cars I'd say the build quality will be frikkin impeccable. Bloody bargain too!

I recall having a similar discussion with someone from here a while ago - apparently there were more M5s sold new in NZ than factory manual 540i. Pretty sure there's less than 20 M5s so youre gonna be searching for the Unicorn on this one. Of course that doesn't include any DIY converted cars or private / Japanese imports but I don't think theres a lot to work with. Good luck though, they will be around - just be prepared to pay a huge manual tax for the privilege!

Stretch / stance is just pointless, but fair play - a 105/70 on a 6" is just friggin hilarious troll expert level achieved!

They'll pay market value unless youre paying for replacement cost - not sure they offer it in all cases. If your car is pinched you'll get market value less your excess - 3/5ths of feck all really - audio equipment is nearly worthless the second it gets installed, so I wouldn't bother trying to insure it. You'll only be paying a stupid sum for a service that practically amounts to extortion. What it really boils down to, is the only person that thinks your car is worth something is you - the only exception being highly desirable classics (E30 M3 for example)

Anti-rattle clip on brake pads

So does anyone know if this is staying in NZ or heading offshore?

Paint does not qualify as an insurance risk, only need to be noted if the original colour has been changed. Any bolt-on additions to a car that are under 2k in value and do not require certification were not a requirement for disclosure, according to AMI when I renewed my policies last month. Everything else that has been mentioned are maintenance items. However if you're willing to pay a higher premium then I'm sure they'll gladly take your money. Just don't expect to get it back if you ever have to claim

Turbo M10B20. Good, tractable power from low-ish rpm, reasonably low build cost, high fun level. 'nuff said!

I'll be that guy - how the hell is that much stretch legal??

^^ This All the tech in the worth ain't worth jack sh*t if the engine needs a total rebuild after 120,000km. For me the journey stopped with the CSL E46 & the E39 M5. Only reason the E46 makes the list is the mechanical engineering overrides the electric wizardry. Given the choice between the newest M3 (or is that M4. Or M3+1. Or M3v2.0??) and say, the Hellcat Dodge I'd probably go for the dinosaur Hemi. Probably not as nice to drive, but at least it'll run for more than 100,000km before needing a total rebuild

Anything less than a 305 is a fail

Call me old fashioned, but doesn't running a 235 tyre on a 10 inch rim counter the point of wide wheels? A 235 will happily fit on a 8 inch wheel, saving you all the bother of needless panel massaging. Yes, I get the whole aesthetics of big wheels for street cars - but I thought this was a track monster? Also, is it still vaguely legal to 'stretch' tyres these days?

Get the alignment checked by someone that actually knows what they're looking at - Jeff Gray would be the place I'd take it to. Perhaps other Chch natives can suggest a reputable indy if dealership prices aren't to your liking? From the late 90's BMW started employing a little more rear camber than on older models, will pay to have your alignment and rear suspension bushes examined though. How worn are the outers of the rear tyres? If they're at or very near the minimum tread depth indicators it's likely everything's normal, but still definitely have it looked at by the experts for peace of mind. Simply running a higher tyre pressure will merely reduce the total tyre contact patch, won't do a damn thing to fix the problem if one exists.

Jeff Gray BMW. They will be able to get your VIN from your licence plates and figure out which one you need. Cheaper than you think too!

I'm not saying it's impossible to flare the guards sufficiently with gentle heat & a roller but I couldn't convince myself I'd gain enough clearance for the inner arch not to foul under compression. Surely there will be pictures or even a how-to guide of other racers the have run a 10" wheel somewhere on the internets / on overseas forums?

I have looked into fitting style 66 wheels to my E36 - 17x8 ET20 front & 17x9 ET23ish rear running 225/45 & 255/40 respectively. Fronts will work ok with a little massaging but the rears are much more problematic. I concluded the only way to be satisfied around clearance was to start cutting and welding which is way more effort than I could be bothered with simply for aesthetics. Those Willwoods look freakin awesome, btw!!

That was basically the gist of the conversation. Apparently because they're a forged monoblock wheel they will defy the laws of metallurgy & physics, or some such shite. I started wondering if he was parroting something he'd read on the internets once I twigged he was referring to VW / Audi stud patterns which to the best of my knowledge are around the ET35 mark anyway. I did ask him for details on where he lived and the places he most often visited, so I could duly avoid the roads he'd be driving on.