Ahmedsinc

Have heard of some sketchy stuff done to wheels to make them fit, thats a whole new level though! Had quite an 'interesting' discussion with a guy yesterday as to why it is a (really) bad idea to machine the back of a wheel hub to increase offset from roughly ET20 to ET35. AFTER welding and redrilling to change the PCD from 5x110 to 4x100.

Yes, the parts are cheap enough for a DIY project - paying a pro to do the job would make it expensive though, especially if they're sourcing the parts for you.

Try EuroSurgeon, he might tackle it. Will cost a bloody fortune though

Trouble is, most of those buyers are getting them through car yards on finance. No argument on depreciation either, E39 M5 is the same as the E36 M3 - now is the cheapest you'l probably ever get one for. It will sell sooner or later - plenty of people can see it for what it is

N54B30 with the stock G265

Summer use isn't really the worry with snow tyres - the wet weather traction is terrible on our coarse chip roads. PS3 is a nice tyre, but if your budget doesn't stretch that far Bridgestone RE003 is a good all-rounder at a gentler price point. Going by your photo I think new rotors and pads ought to be on the shopping list fairly quickly too - I've got vinyl in my cabinet with less grooves than those things!

I think the spline count is the same but probably different slip rings. Found the same thing trying to fit an E39 wheel to my E36. If you can get the right slip ring for the wheel you should be able to adapt the E34 wiring to the E36 slip ring

85,000km......just about due for a $30k engine rebuild

Sounds like you got the same asshat I talked to. I made the error of filling out an online quote form, the Japie rang me 9 times in 5 days before he finally understood what "F**k off" meant in English as well as Afrikaans. Never again! If you can, see if FMG will cover you, though if you're in the 'burbs you probably won't qualify. Can't hurt to ask though

Will be on the phone tomorrow morning to Ron Enrights, hopefully they can sort me out. Being a proper indy shop they don't open weekends so I've been in limbo until they open in the morning Don't know if Enrights are a distributor in their own right or just a reseller of Apex. Given they're a standalone outfit thats been around since Adam was a sperm I'm hoping they import their stock themselves. My biggest issue is lack of purchase documentation - I've shifted house twice since I bought it and have not the faintest idea where the receipt might have gone. Have had impeccable after sales support from them in the past though - with a little luck they can match the serial to their paperwork The Digitech one from jay car really is horrible, I can only liken it to trying to solder with a heated sledgehammer. Have burnt myself three times already, never even scorched hairs with the Pyropen!

Quite a bit bigger. 325x25 front, 320x22 rear vs. 300x22 / 294x19 for the 325/8i. Compared to the stock 276mm fronts I have they make a much more attractive upgrade than the M3 brakes for us E36 floggers Much cheaper too!

Bump. Any leads will be most appreciated. Am using a crappy $40 iron from jaycar in the meantime, it's making me miss my Weller even more!!

Evening all, does anyone know of a Weller soldering iron service agent in NZ? Was using my pyropen this afternoon, gave it a gentle flick to dislodge a bit of slag on the tip and since then it won't run at all. Still have butane flowing through the nozzle but I wonder if something has become dislodged / fallen out of the ceramic burner. Once the tip assembly is removed it still ignites, but instead of a steady blue flame from the burner it now shoots fire from the four intake vents at the base of the jet assembly Not overly impressed, the unit is less than 2 years old and has only seen very gentle DIY usage. Will give Ron Enright a call tomorrow morning (hopefully they still open Saturdays!) but if anyone knows of a repair agent that'd be great. Before the question is asked, yes I have tried using other tips (no success) and it has only ever been run on Weller branded gas

Jesus, that's a LOT of pies!!

M54B30 injectors (purple top) will work with an M50 fuel rail but the rail needs modification as the injectors are shorter than the green tops. M52B28 ones might be closer to your required fuel rate - maybe use those with a rising rate FPR? Should keep the injectors at the same duty cycle but with the increased rail pressure it might be enough to stop you leaning out. Probably not the best solution but probably the easiest?

The carpets and panels are a bit overkill, but I'm gonna stick my neck out and say I dig the seats and steering wheel in red

Must be worth at least 19k!!

I run 33%, doesn't get cold enough here to justify the higher concentration. Am about to use the blue Castrol stuff on the next coolant flush in the E36, new hoses and no pesky plastic bits in the system so should be good

Doesn't look like they'll take a massive amount of work to make them fit, you could delete the O2 bungs while you were at it. At 700 quid they're worth the effort! Easiest 15hp you'll ever make from an M5x engine

You'll need to realign the output flanges to mate with your current exhaust, and not sure if the steering linkage will foul on runner #6 as it was modified to clear the E30 firewall. I can't see any reason why it would but not 100% sure. Other than that they should be a straight fitment, pretty good pricing too!

Check the cam trigger is correctly aligned. Can't remember if the M5x trigger wheels can be reinstalled incorrectly or not. If the HG has been done theres a chance they could have got it wrong. Have got half an idea that the Siemens controlled cars changed to hall sensors - if you've been supplied an M50 type VR sensor that could well be the problem? Long shots but worth checking anyways

Was the engine disassembled at all?

The thought has crossed my mind more than once, just wasn't sure where the inner hub finishes and the outer hub begins. This thing is so caked in its own gunge I can't even see the fins on the front any more :s There's this too! 98% sure its the original fan, so not sure how long a 30 year old piece of plastic would cope with matching engine RPM before committing hair kari Might borrow the one off the E36 while its not being used as a temporary fix til I can get to Brent. Theres a mile of clearance between the fan & radiator so shouldn't matter too much of the E36 one is taller. I hope

Anyone know where in Auckland I can get a new fan clutch to suit an M10B18 in an E30? Replaced waterpump today as it was utterly flogged, still getting a bit too warm at idle so will need to replace the clutch too. Or at a pinch is there a way to lock the clutch until a replacement arrives? Am heading away on Friday for a few days so has to be sorted tomorrow. Thanks

Have noticed in the last week that the E30 is getting a little hot under the collar at idle when running at operating temp. Replaced the thermostat with a low temp one (didn't realise there were two types for the M10s) so unlikely to be that. Bled system after replacement - possibly the waterpump giving up the ghost??? Edit: the electric fan is wired through a switch on the dash - if I leave it running the temp stays in an acceptable range. Should probably check the viscous coupling out too :s