Olaf

thanks, Sam! I'm keeping things fairly conservative. Daily Driver duties of 70-odd kms, needs a bit of comfort. Plus, my wife and kids unhappy faces if it's too stiff is not at all good. They just wouldn't want to ride in the car. I've acheived a good happy medium with my e46, now looking to do something similar in outcome terms, but with a different vehicle and set of constraints. I'll keep this thread updated.

Preey, for your wealth of posts on this forum, you're in no position to make judgements on the behaviours and motives of those in this community. These guys are - to a tee - very, very helpful. Frankly the hostility of your posts in this thread are concerning, and you come off as a troll. Relocating countries can be a stressful time, and stress can bring out irrational behaviours. Hopefully the rest of your plans won't see you flaring up and lashing out at people who are trying to help you, at whichever point of your journey you're on. Best thing you can do now is put your $8000 on the car and take it to a car fair or park it wherever everyone parks their cars to sell these days. Do have a plan B though, as you can't put it in the overhead locker when you leave. I'll not be responding to your posts any further, I wish you the best of luck.

but the guy selling the baseball cards doesn't usually threaten to burn the cards or blow up the model plane, right?

This action has been described over the centuries as "cutting one's nose of to spite one's face". You are of course entitled to your opinion. I would suggest there are many here who won't share your perspective. An expectation of owning an car - and not losing money on it - either comes from a very different time (such as new zealand in the 1970's), or a very different market. Try buying a $25,000 Toyota Signature Class car that originated in Japan used, and tell us how much you get for it in three years time. If you get $12k you'll be doing well. What will you say about Toyota then? Hopefully you'll try a different lens and find a happy sale. You're leaving the country, need to quit your car, and could do better for the environment than wrecking your e46.

"pay attention 007!". SJ has picked up a 330i at a good market price. Colin is the self-confessed thrash driver. And here's the question of perspective. The vendor of SJ's new car sold something he wanted to sell, for what the market was prepared to pay. Would he have been a fool for holding out for (say) $9000, a price the market was not prepared to stand? Who's the fool here?!

snapped - using iPhone and 645PRO, with a tweak or two in Lr - this morning while I was out for a drive.

I did consider replacing it with a nice metal chain that would sparky sparky, but prefered to avoid entry into the Darwin Awards for this century at least!

Damn that's a rare colour, looking forward to seeing the pics! GLWS

PS - I'd be interested in the Ford Europe cost analysis of data management.

a good point well made, Jon. Indeed, dealerships pushing other marques here lose interest in anything 15 years old, and their datasets are often not kept up to date. My mate was collecting Honda parts for an NZ-new '97 Civic recently... and even Honda parts guy was "there's three types for this car, here's one - if it doesn't fit bring it back". It didn't fit, so the brake job took an extra day.

So today I learned how to interogate the car. It was telling me there was something out - a bulb - (Pete mentioned it yesterday)... learned to press and hold the upper button on the left stalk, and the fault is displayed on the central screen. Left reversing light out. Went to Supercheap to get a bulb, checked it in the carpark - working. Okay, dodgy connection of bulb on way out? Couldn't find what I needed at Supercheap, so headed back into town. Winger BMW were happy to provide the right bulb gratis, as I agreed to buy an owners manual. Perhaps excess, but hey, at least it's there if needed. I also got to 'assume the position' while out on my drive... be doing more of that I guess. ** Note to self: get a new leash for the gas cap. I'll look that one up on RealOEM. I like having a captive gas cap, it's a nice touch.

HI Michael, I bought TermiPete's '04 e60 545i.

that's less than the key for my e46... as it's the '02 model with bigger fob and the big red nipple on the mirror, they (well, JG BMW as they were) sting about $560 for those. I was thinking "shoulda got an '04 with the diamond key!", but whaddya do. You can go to the dealer and order a key for your fifteen year old car. Ever tried that with a run-of-the-mill brand? ISTR Milland do a good price on keys.

that, is gold. totally quote worthy.

152k kms on the originals. They're soft, and getting a little damp at the rear. Same part numbers for DD and Non-DD e60's - the main variants are Standard, Sport, Motorsport, and electronically adjustable (height or damping, not sure which). I think it was on the Turner Motorsport site they said their HD kit works with DD... will confirm back, I've got nine million tabs open at the moment as I explore/research. Good point you make though re possibly upsetting the DD with stiffer shocks.

yep, though that white oil burner is probably still in the corner eh? I think this may be the coolest car I've owned.

hmmmm I'll do the spreadsheets. Maybe Konis are the way to go. EDIT: though it seems Koni Yellows are optimised for lowering springs...

Sounds like a perfect match for stock springs, then?

You'll not find anyone going to a dealer and paying $10k for an e46 anything, unless it's an M3! You mentioned receiving no bids at $6500 on Trademe... why would you think anyone wants to pay $8k for it, based on your earlier experience? I should like to point out that your perspective is at odds with selling *anything*. You state "it's about value for money for me, not about adding on maintenance..." Actually it's about the perception of value that your potential purchaser gains while considering your car. In this case, it's about what they're prepared to pay, rather than what you think about its value. You speak of "no value in secondhand BMWs". They're not an investment, they're a mobile liability like any other car. Disheartened on the whole BMW experience? That's all down to your perspective. Try a different lens! I wish you luck in gaining the price you seek. It's a very tidily presented 330i. GLWS.

I've found this report on the B6 option. A couple of folks anecdotally report ride height increasing by around 1.5", and then settling after a few weeks. Few of them were scientific, measuring wheel centre to arch edge, or arch gap to wheel or ground.

Start: 152,294kms. After prevaricating, considering the market and options, TermiPete's 545i became available. The domino effect of upgrading! I'd thought about X5's, missed out on a 535d Motorsport Touring by 2 days, and thought about 550is. So I bought this. It's my SS Commodore. Just in a sharply tailored german suit, rather than a Drizabone. And it has a roundel where the lion would be. And it's cool. Pete has lavished a bit of attention on this vehicle since acquiring it in Oct 2015. Now its my turn. I've already ordered hardware for shock replacement (bump stops, boots, strut bearings, bolts etc)... now deciding which shocks to get. Sachs standard (OEM) Bilstein: Touring (B4), HD (B6), Sport (B8) Koni Yellows After doing the shocks on three of my last four cars, the last two I've stuck with factory IEM spec Sachs (my Volvo 855-T5 and BMW e46 Touring). I'm not planning on changing the springs on this 545i and don't want to radically transform or make it too hard. It has Standrard suspension, it's on 18" conventional tyres (no need for RFT's here as it has a spare), and has Dynamic Drive option (the active computer controlled anti-roll bars) and having driven a near-identical car without DD, I'm sold on it. Koni Yellows I'm sure would be lovely, but they're a little more pricey. Bilstein: tempted to go HD (B6 Yellow), they're said to be made to work with stock springs but are up to 20% stiffer. I think this would be similar to the addition of KYB Excel+ gas shocks to my old A32 Maxima. Firmed it up and helped it hugely with roadholding and ride. Alternately B4 Tourings are said to be 10% stiffer than stock. Sachs: The OEM shocks are equivalent to 31316766993 (Front left) and 31316766994 (Front right), and 33526766995 rear. They'll no doubt "just work". Would I be crazy to go Bilstein HD B6? And as soon as the shocks are done, it's time for new boots (and panties). Photos soon.

@viskop have you seen this, here's your entire manaual conversion kit for your e36, mate!

when I've needed to ensure steel stays rust-free, my old-school approach has been: - remove any scale - prep with rust kill (neutraliser) - prime with appropriate metal primer - ensure drainage functions as intended (in the case of old japanese & english cars add more drainage - two liberal coats of fishoilene (yes, it's made from fish), brushed in, with time to leech into seams, and bake dry in the sun. Yes it stinks. Yes for a couple of weeks cats will hang around your car. My brother fishoiled a mid-70's 180B that had been flooded. When he sold it in '83, no rust - remarkable for one of the 70's best-known self-recycling cars. My $0.02 for free. PS: have a good think about the design, and why they rust out where they do. Is it the sunroof drains blocking? If so, can you make 'em larger? or is it just the outlets?

yes! hopefully final steps before establishing a solid platform!

I drove some on that 330i that I nearly purchased and thought them average (comparing against RE003 is maybe unfair?); today I drove some on an e60 (245/40R18) and found them good (grippy enough, stiff sidewalls)... on the UK tyre review website, they rate reasonably well. My interpretation is "appreciated bordering on well regarded". http://www.tyrereviews.co.uk/Tyre/Bridgestone/Potenza-RE050A.htm HTH