Olaf

Ha ha. Big shots in their own minds. Only, they haven't made an offer. You've listed a price; it's up to them to make an offer. These doofuses are not getting laid. They've no technique for foreplay, and they don't have the chatup techniques. They're rushing to close where there's no opening. Yes I know what I did there.

Point of fact: it wasn't a question, it was a statement! 🤗 I'm not excusing the vendor! Actually I think he has read my publication "How not to list your car for sale", and really took to heart the photography section. Also, if you're looking at buying a modified vehicle and enquiry on mod and cert status is answered the same way this guy has, it's very difficult to proceed. You'll be wondering what else has been hidden, or what cowboy repairs have been effected. Can't believe I sold my genuine, alpinweiss, well-maintained (and improving) 1989 e30 325i Manual Touring for two thousand four hundred quid.

Squirrel! ----> zoom.

it also spent it's first 20 years and nearly 100k miles in UK, so best you get a look under it's skirts with the shrowds off, if it was from where the southern softies are, or only driven sparingly in Summer, you should be okay. Salt kills. Yes it would have had a stringent inspection in 2018 on entry, but tread carefully. Stuff that never rusts in NZ can be incredibly crusty.

It's a Z3M, a real go-kart. Be prepared for ///M maintenance costs though. agree re the e46 M3 rims - just not right for it.

Update. I've driven it a few times since installing the new gear knob, a little over 100kms. It occurred to me today how much nicer the tactile experience is. It's better matched with the steering wheel. Let's face it, with just over one hundred neddies beneath the hood, one changes gear often! This is a much more pleasant place to be. I also installed - at last - the CTEK quick connect/battery monitor adaptor. Should have done it 16 months ago!

I bought 15,000 last time. I'll be buying that again. Let them tell me I don't have a govt approved ute, or need to buy RUCs like a peasant on the bones of my arse 1000kms at a time. They're trying to put up the admin cost of the transaction to boot.

you should buy my particularly well-maintained e60 545i. 50:50 weight distro, valve-stem seals already replaced, what a drive.

I am untroubled by it.

I couldn't find any pics of mine before I mounted it.

Where's the commitment?! 😊 I go there from Wellington, such is the quality of work.

I reckon you're right! I recall my e30 bar is symmetrical. As were the later 318iS.

Going from no rear bar to having one makes a good difference. My 316i started out with no bar, and 30 year old RTABs and subframe mounts. I did the lot - in OE rubber - with a 13.5mm rear bar. Later updated to 14.5mm when the front went bigger and all the front bushes were done, and H&R sportsprings with Koni yellows. It's firm tight and grippy, but doesn't rattle my teeth or shake my kidneys too much. Show us a pic of the bar you've got, they're pretty recognisable. They can be very fiddly to fit - best done with the car on a hoist.

You should consider Begley Motor Works in Marton. Excellence personified. You can get Jon on ‭021 651 591‬

it'll help, though your RTABs and subframe bushes are probably toast as well. You may want to source those parts (don't bother with poly bushes unless it's a race car), and a new diff mount bush, and replace those as part of adding the rear sway bar. If you're not going to go 20mm at front (and stay with your stock 19mm), suggest you go with 12.5 rear. Maintain the ratio front-to-rear. HTH

"I bought this pig-hunting truck. Can't understand why all the pig-hunters come out of the woodwork to admire it wherever I stop". They're not the "wrong people", they're 200SX family.

welcome back! looking forward to seeing your progress, @yoshie

Nikon D3s, AF Nikkor 300mm f2.8+1.4 teleconverter, 1/500 @ f5.6, ISO320. Copyrighted.

here's one I took earlier.... Nikon D3s, AF Nikkor 300mm f2.8+1.4 teleconverter, 1/1000 @ f5.6, ISO640. Copyrighted.

I bought my e60 545i for 45c in the dollar compared to a Commodore SS. I was fully paid up dollar-for-dollar in the maintenance stakes within a two to two-and-a-half years, though with a *much* (much!) better car! From my perspective - as I don't shy away from quality maintenance - the higher depreciation of the euro has always paid off.

FOMO, perhaps? 😁 Missing out on the lifestyle, the driving experience, instead living with the humdrum experience of operating an appliance?

mosdef. I went with factory spec off-the-shelf BMW part. Dunlops. I've not owned runflats before, and after years with Goodyears, switched to Bridgestones about ten years ago. The Dunlops have taken a bit of getting used to, I'm now very happy with them. Given no provision for a spare or a jack in the F25, I view non-RFT as unworkable. PS: the other option was the Pirelli P-Zero on BMW parts system. I understand they're very good, though wear quite handily on NZ's sh!t roads. My Scottish genes - along with advice from the dealer that he preferred the Dunlops on his X3s - dictated the Dunlops 😁

outstanding mate!! well done. And congrats on getting to road-legal with your conversion, a big job.

Wow, @Kodachrome did you print that yourself? Where'd you get the files? And how's the M54 conversion coming along?

then they take your advice seriously and get you into a hearing that you're then essentially obliged to attend, as no-shows don't fare well. I prefer the Keep It Simple, Stupid approach, and don't rely on not having your bluff called. Your mileage may vary, you may have a higher threshold for stupid. Me, I learned you can't argue with stupid, so why bother.