exextatic

Consider just going for M54B30 + manual and set the rest aside for maintenance (how are the rear subframe bushes looking..? Cooling system, gaskets, etc.)

Consider using a password manager with unique passwords per account (even if the site has HTTPS) - better overall security.

+1 on the CTEK units, I believe BMW's battery charger accessory is also just a BMW-branded CTEK.

Planning on converting my partner's E87 130i to NBT (iDrive 4) at some point soon - not the most economical, but will look very factory-like and have the modern niceties - perhaps another option to consider.

Ah, I was order 49, turned up today fortunately, installation was a breeze in my E39 touring and definitely an improvement for those of us running a MK3/MK4 nav unit. Have you updated the firmware on yours yet?

How long ago did you order? Mine was shipped on the 28th of April, has been showing as leaving Chicago for quite a while...

Check clutch switch is wired and operating correctly, and also remove the viscous and pusher fans, replacing with the proper manual puller fan.

E46 does too, but as with the E39, a lack at a tamper dot being on doesn't mean it hasn't been tampered with.

Thanks Kyu, have definitely been pondering LED tails for it - concerns around quality of the aftermarket offerings are the only thing holding me back on them. Currently has the standard m-sport interior (black carpets & headliner, black alu-cube trim, black leather seats) with E92 M3 front seats (custom-built CANBUS module to get them functioning).

Have been looking into a CSL-style bootlid (Seibon Carbon) and diffuser, but undecided as at yet (have heard mixed reviews re fitment with the CSL-style bootlids). Anyhow, latest updates: I've since fixed the missing lip on the bootlid, left-rear door trim, centre caps and fitted Bimmerworld adjustable rear camber arms. The earlier-style mirror modules (non-ribbon-cable) have also been retrofitted, and the GM coded accordingly, so the M3 mirrors are fully functional on a car that originally used ribbon-cable mirrors. ?

Suspension back in over the long weekend: Also sorted out the wheels for this project - thank you Tom (M3_Power)! The car seeing daylight for the first time in months: Very happy with how it's turning out; a few more jobs to go and then it'll be on to paint.

Some additional welding was required on the inner skin of the rear guards, and the tube sections that are attached to the reinforcement bar / subframe bolts also had to be welded to the top-side skin of the boot floor (seemed fairly aesthetical to me...) - nothing major either way, fortunately.

Thanks Michael & Kyu; definitely special blessings rather than a sacrifice. Only a small update today; have had a review of the welding work with an LVVTA certifier, only minor adjustments required. The arches are currently being filled and smoothed, and are coming along well: And with the front bumper lightly held in place (not properly attached):

Have had some interest in my '332i' project, so will post up the details here on Bimmersport. This car started life as a 2003 330i m-sport sedan in black sapphire metallic and is being built into an 'M3 sedan'. While the car existed as a standard 330i, I replaced the seats and door cards with black leather units, and retrofitted an NBT from an F30: HellBM then removed the M54B30 and replaced it with an S54B32 & 6-speed manual gearbox: The VANOS was then 'bulletproofed' using the full Beisan kit, uprated cam gear bolts & S62 diaphragm springs, and the valves adjusted: I then rebuilt the donor M3 brake calipers; the front caliper pistons weren't in great shape and were replaced: Caliper carriers media blasted & painted: Calipers prepped & painted (Duplicolor gloss black): Next up was preparing the remaining M3 suspension and driveline components. New Bilstein PSS10 coilovers: Donor M3 subframe bushes removed: CMP Auto Engineering solid subframe bushes were chosen for this car, even though it's intended for street use. The reasoning is two-fold; no movement of the subframe against the RACP should help prevent any future cracking, and the bushes are designed to move the subframe closer to the body to account for reinforcement plates & the vehicle being lowered. The M3 LSD was cleaned, drained and the rear cover replaced: And reinstalled back into the subframe: Trailing arms disassembled, wheel bearings, balljoints replaced & Syncro Design Works monoball RTAB installed: Handbrake shoes & new springs installed: For the front, new CSL kingpins and wheel bearings were used: The old rear suspension & fuel tank were removed from the sedan: And the boot floor removed: No turning back now . A brand-new E46 M3 floor pan was purchased and the centre panel extracted: CMP Auto Engineering reinforcement kit installed: The decision was made to go the 'full way': Donor rear arches extracted & prepared: Test-fitting with M3 rear bumper: Tacked on & then welded fully: View from behind: M3 rear muffler brackets installed (pre-arches): The rear suspension & fuel system were then mostly reinstalled: ECS Tuning Monoball RSMs & reinforcement plates installed: And some more parts removed: A genuine M3 bonnet was then fitted. The guards will be created by joining both sedan and M3 guards: And that's it for now - more to come soon

If it's the EWS module playing up, it's possible to bypass the EWS system entirely with a modified DME (and splicing two wires together at the EWS module).

Had InjectorTech do the six injectors on my S54; all done quickly with no hassle.

By flap, he means this: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-european-bmw-parts/csl-intake-flap/11617833498~oee/ Looks like you already have Karbonius' CF replacement, based on your pictures. If you did want to run the genuine CSL flap, you'll need to have an MSS54HP DME modified to have the H-Bridge IC to actuate the flap. There are a few other parts you'll need for your conversion which I didn't see pictured: MSS54HP DME (your car may have an MSS54HP or an MSS54) MAP sensor (unfortunately BMW/Bosch has stopped producing the 'proper' sensor, but take a look at this thread) IAT (Intake Air Temperature) sensor P/N 13621739510, 12521427615, 12521732635 Air filter Air rail P/N 13417833597 Vent hose P/N 11157833649 Other bits if your car is SMG (fluid tank & bracket)

The door loom is separate from the main loom, so you can source just the inner-door wiring for the airbag (or a whole door loom). May be a better option if you're not 100% confident with splicing in new wiring.

I believe 0-60Motorsports is referring to the company named 'BE Bearings'.

While it's possible to do, there are a lot of considerations required on the electrical side to ensure it will all work properly. At a minimum, you'll need to have the CAS and key from the donor vehicle too.

If the DME has a true EWS delete, you can do without the EWS module. Just join the two higher-gauge wires together at the EWS module (pins 2 and 3, I believe), which will let the starter activate.

As it's turning over, the EWS module is accepting the key, which is a good sign. My next suggestion would be to turn to the DME and read the codes. If there's no voltage at the fuel pump, check relay K96 (glovebox). It's ground-activated by the DME (plug 4, pin 10, black/purple wire).

Can you read the fault codes off of the DME and EWS modules?

Removed the seats & carpet from the 523i to upgrade to later-model ASC (works with the MS43 / M54B30), and swap in a black carpet / sport seats / interior bits.

You can swap in the other car's EWS/barrel/key if you remove the EWS functionality from the DME. Trying the donor key without swapping the EWS won't allow the starter to activate (unless you bypass the wiring at the EWS unit), even if the DME has the EWS functionality removed. Needless to say, removing the EWS functionality from the DME would make the car easier to steal, so the barrel fix is the best thing to try first.