bradgalbraith

Update: replaced the plastic inner wheel arches and undertray with near new ones, replaced a fuel line which was cracked, replaced the fuel cap and bought the following parts: -Purple tag steering rack -Staggered DS2s -Ruff gearbox mounts -Powerflex RTABs and LCABs -OMP WRC sterring wheel and bosskit Pics below. Edit: I should really get some decent photos together. They seem to be getting progressively worse..

I'll give it a go but given how bad it has gotten recently I'm inclined to think that its toast.

After an S50B32 MAF ASAP. Willing to buy new or second hand in known working condition. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

I assume you're referring to the red one with 200,000 km + and the white RHD one have been sitting around for ages but there's a limit to this 'trick' haha. Taking shoddy photos of your M3 on the lawn and listing for $100k is never a winning combination for a quick sale. My point is if there's someone who really wants one and they have the cash, they'll be looking at the options in front of them even if they come at a premium. Disclaimer: I have a vested interest in seeing prices rise so I'm 100% biased.

I think there's enough interest in these cars at the moment to 'reset' the market price. If people only ever see E36 M3s listed in the 30s then it's only a matter of time before that becomes the actual price. I'd have to think it would sell reasonably quickly at $25k.

Very interested to see how you get on. I looked at what they're listed for over in Aussie and nearly fell off my chair! I'd say list around the 30k mark. I've always maintained that the E36 M3 has been undervalued for years and it would seem people are only starting to fully appreciate them now.

I believe they're ok. Didn't throw a code when tested but could be worth looking into.

Hi all, Need some input from those in the know when it comes to S50B32s. I've currently got an issue with the following symptoms which all happen sporadically: -Rough idle -High idle from cold at approx 3k rpm -Hesitation on partial throttle but revs clean when not under load. Also pulls hard at WOT. Also worth noting that the car idles sporadically at about 1500rpm when the car is in gear. I know that there's a gear position switch by the clutch line but not sure why its affecting the idle.. I've checked and replaced the following: -Checked ICV and cleaned with carb cleaner. Valve was moving freely. INPA confirms that the ICV is functioning as it should. -Checked vacuum lines and nothing appeared perished -Beisan system vanos rebuild by Kayne Barrie. -Replaced TPS -Replaced throttle cable I've had the car on @M3AN's diagnostic and also BM workshop and all was showing as ok. I've checked the plugs and they look ok but I'm thinking it's not a coil or plug issue anyway since it revs hard under WOT or free revving. Could it be a crank or cam sensor? Maybe I'll check the vanos solenoid wires again? Trying to be efficient in finding the issue without replacing every part one by one $$$. Thanks in advance Brad

As per the title.

I used to own HAN77.. I wouldn't describe it as being tidy to be honest haha. It's not bad but its got a G220 manual conversion and other bits and pieces which aren't great. Current owner may have tidied it up though!

My interior is still on offer if that means anything to you Dave

I was literally about to post this. Having a bunch of Defenders listed all at once will definitely make prices drop. Not many to choose from in the sub $35k price range. Some good deals to be had in the coming months!

I've been wondering the same thing..

Decent price for sure. I'd almost say its got low kms for a 34 year old car!

Yep it's a bit better. I think its partly just how these cars are when they're cold. Yes to the 02 sensors.

Yes, please PM me.

If you run the vin you'll see there's nothing to suggest a '5k de-badge option' being ticked. 14.5k would be a lot for a very tidy factory manual msport wit low kms. Not sure why he thinks someone would be willing to pay that much. Totally his choice but at that price its beyond optimistic..

A bit different but I've quite enjoyed the 'Collection Cars' pod cast on Spotify. I find it easy enough to listen to while working. Some very interesting interviews, especially when Chris speaks with a guy very clued up on the Mclaren F1 as he was very involved in the release (can't remember his name or role).

Update: COVID-19 may have foiled my wife and I's plans to go to Europe but I've been making the most of the lockdown. Decided to take a trip to Repco pre-lockdown to get some 10w-60 Castrol Supercar oil, some Penrite dot 4+ brake fluid and some ATF to replace the transmission and power-steering fluid. After doing the brakes I started to get pull things apart to try track down my idle issue. Before long I had the plenum off but couldn't find any perished vacuum lines. I figured that while its off it would be a good time to rip out the secondary air pump in case it had anything to do with the issue. One thing lead to another and the car is now without AC, an SAP or a viscous fan ? I need to take the viscous coupling off still and replace it with an electric fan (on the to-do list). Also decided to drop all the coolant and replace it all with a proper 50/50 mix with the best coolant I can find. Anyway, back to the SAP. It's pretty simple to remove it all only the AC is very much in the way.. as are the headers. I couldn't commit to taking the headers off so I decided to leave the steel pipe running to the head and blanked it off at the end. I was surprised at how little information was online about doing this on an S50. Not as easy as the M54 and S54 as I found out.. Will fire the car up once I've recharged the battery and see how it runs. Have left the heat shields off the headers as it looks miles better but would be interested to see if anyone thinks this could be detrimental. After putting the intake back together I was pretty stoked to see that the subframe already had the 4 nutserts required to bolt up my x-brace so I ended up doing that too. On another note, I sold my style 24s to my cousin to put on his 328i coupe and bought some 17x8 and 17x9 BBS LMs. I used to own these 2 years ago and only just managed to convince a mate of mine to sell them back to me. They're not to everyone's taste with the gold centres but I think they're quirky. Took some time to scrub them free of all the layers of brake dust which had accumulated over the years.. not sure it will last long but it seemed like a good way to spend two days at the time. Hope people find the update interesting and not too much of a picture overload.

He's running a business.. how is a car dealer supposed to make money if he sells a car for what it owes him? Common man

I think it sold. Seeing cars like this for sale is good news for us owners! It may not accurately reflect the value of the car but soon enough we may see a trend just like the E30- if enough people list at a ridiculous price, that then becomes the new norm over time.

Waiting for him to get back to me haha.

As per title. Front tyres are Pirellis with good tread, rears are Daytons with good tread. Wheels have some curbing but have tidy faces and paint overall. Price is $850ono. Located Auckland. Would prefer to sell on here- please save me the hassle of selling on Facebook or Turdme

As per the title. Front tyres have good tread, rears do not.. Wheels are in good condition with minimal curbing. Price is $1200 ono. Located Auckland. Would prefer to sell on here- please save me the hassle of selling on Facebook or Turdme

Have a nice set of staggered style 24s and style 23s. Please PM me.