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I just bought one of those last week for my M52B28 w Getrag 220; while it isn't the exact same setup as yours, I'm happy to do some engineering (measuring, fab, etc) to help you try and get yours going right, unless you've already pulled the trigger on that other one?

As others have said, newspaper, plastic, and cold things; but in addition, get the bbq ready for anything that looks a bit defrosted, and bring on the meat sweats...

I owned an L300 for the last 5 years, also nursed a semi for the delica during such time; go the L300 base model one if you can find a rust free specimen I reckon. Cos it's not a van if it registers a score on frontal impact safety tests Fuel economy and performance are never going to be up there when the only word to describe it's aerodynamics is 'brickish'

Thanks for the responses, just saw it come up and though, that'd be neat, I wonder what they normally go for...

Those tow bars, are they a quick bolt on (and bolt off) job? while I dislike the idea of a tow bar on a coupe, I do like the ability to cart around large things...

S54 post? I've not seen that one I think.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/bmw/gear-boxes/auction-985362149.htm Is this ($1750) about market value for one? How often do they come up for sale?

Doesn't that just mean, 'will pay market value for parts which are covered in rust/dirt/spiders and just generally in poor condition'?

No worries, that 500 dollar one on tm is probably the go thenSent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk

Price? I got one earlier this year (inc flywheel) for 800 I might be willing to pass along since a tasty 6 speed just popped up on TM...

I'm after a 240mm flywheel to suit M52B28, for a Jerko to Getrag 220 conversion (only got the 228 came with it) so feel free to try and sell me some associated parts at the same time...

Thanks for that. Didn't know about the clutch issue. Sounds like I have to try and track down at 240mm version. The diff is 3.46, but may look at changing that, as you say. Exhaust is on the list, but only worth doing after the slushbox is biffed.

Got both in there yesterday and lifted whole front of car up, didn't seem to flex at all. However I do need a large size trolley jack as the one I used was right at it's lift limit to get the stands under. Anyway, I'm looking to buy in parts to suss out this manual conversion (http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/53978-e36-manual-conversion-sold/ what I have so far). I'll be replacing the clutches friction disc since it is out anyway. Are there other cheapish bits that should be replaced during? and who's good to deal with for price/service on these parts? And any other tips would be appreciated. The more info/parts/prep I can do before taking the go bits out the better! And is it just me or does this site not have a functioning forum search?

I've tamed a machinist, and he is pretty good with the price of one-off type jobs. But his lead times can be pretty massive. If the guy who originally made em can supply you that's the way to go, otherwise see if you can get the files... +1 to pants bonnet bulge

Though about going all fast and furious on a pizza delivery boy this evening (I was mad hungry); then realised I had no run-flats so came home and cooked chicken nuggets instead. Now with these, the possibilities are endless. That third question cracked me up.

Have only lifted it once to get the front wheel off, the test will be when one side is already up and the second side is lifted...

Solid. Basics of the parameters is the further away from the car the jack sits, the more torque will be put on the lifting thingo. Similarly, the larger diameter the bar or tube is the more strength it can take (it's ^2 for shear, and ^4 for bend iirc). End of the day though, I don't want to sell anything that has a change of breaking and damaging your cars. Perhaps we need to find someone who has whatever the heaviest model with these lifting points is, and send one to test, plus a couple of really fat chicks to add a bit of test ballast...

Negatory, that's why these are aluminium. Good thing Ahmedsinc asked before I shipped any! (I figured it was obvious from the pic but now realise there is no reason why it would be). Were the bendy steel ones tube or solid? and were they slotted to accomodate the little points used for cover retention? The bar on these is 21.5mm diameter, with a distance between jack and body of like 60mm, so it should pretty much all be in shear.

Aluminium, 6061 I'm pretty sure, lifting use only, axle stands must be put under the normal points and take the load before car is worked on.

Only if I thrust at the door handle, which while it perhaps isn't as rare as you might think, it is also not the most efficient way... Got one of them NFC rings which has a tag on both sides, so palm side to open while I pull from door handle, and fist bump to lock it up. Will program in some other cards/rings/phone as backup. It'll eventually make its way to the ignition to, and all my vehicles, currently three but should be getting a couple more next year. Keys are dumb. May as well start testing from the easy job small scale and work up

They'd end up 30-50 bucks each, depending on volume... Spent many, many hours this weekend pissing about with the door lock. Will work mint though. Lot of bits inside the catch itself, all the manual over-rides make for quite a complex linkage system. Which is undoubtedly why the thing was getting so stiff and non-functional. This version is just simple wireless actuator (remote is about 10x the size of a key) that'll pop the door open on command (from the inside it is still a manual handle). Next version will be an NFC reader embedded in the exterior handle (will likely epoxy up the handle to make it fixed) which can open the door and unlock the rest of the locks, or lock all the other locks.

Made some jacking thingos the other day, should help get some lift onto axle stands for the transmission swap. Pulled the drivers side door card, getting around to replacing the insert, also took off the lock and handle as it often required a push on the door with a knee to get it to open. Will see about pulling the lock to bits to make it electrically actuated (with manual override from inside), not sure how much of the original I'll be able to keep/adapt since it's all pinned together; may be a good thing its a long weekend...

fwiw (and since the thread has been solved), the wire trick wouldn't work with mine (95 e36 jap import). I first bought a reset tool (which just used the wires) no worky on either SI or oil, bought a paperclip which was no worky either. Then bought a full on ADS scan/talky tool, then bought a old as sh*t compy to get a native Rs232 port...

You, sir, have me at a disadvantage But, the answer is not too long, I'll probably profile the rear diffuser on my mill out of 2mm ali sheet. Add some matte black powder and it'll look f**king mint.

Isn't this subforums rules; pics and price or gtfo? I see neither. So does this mean we get to repo the ride, and clean up all the chippy packets and put some proper suspension in it, then sell it to pay for 'hosting' costs?