andrewm

Hasn't got it certified yet and he said he started with auto to get a less thrashed car, guess manual conversion was next on the to do list?

Im in an e39 but yeah I caught mine a few times so now just don't let the bumper reach those things, usually means the cars arse is hanging out a bit.

Castrol edge 5w30 and 5w40 $40 not sure on any limits Castrol magnatec $25 Thought I would give a heads up probably plenty people using the 5w30 edge.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1shTOCI3C94

Try clay first, send me a PM if you are happy to goto manukau and I'll put the buffer on it for you if you want, not sure where you are.

Voted, come on people Isaac is in a close second!

I think it's ok as long as you dont stand in a circle, or polish anyone elses?

If you dont feel like hand polishing all those then you can drop round at my place in Manurewa and I can put the buffer on them with meguiars 105, its their commercial ultra cut compound. Just hit them with 1200 and 2000 first, if your not sanding with finger tips m105 will take out 1200 grit scratches quickly anyway.

I stopped worrying so much about oil when I found out the old man ran his EL falcon on gtx modern engine at 10-15,000km changes and it was still going strong at 485,000km when he sold it. Also his BA XR6T was filled at the dealers on GTX modern engine and he kept filling it with that at 10,000km changes and its near 300,000 with no issues. Unless you have an exotic engine or an engine that regularly see's north of 7000rpm then any 'synthetic' that is on special with a 0,5,10,15w and a hot 30,40,50 rating changed 10,000km will be great. EDIT: bobistheoilguy forum can keep you entertained for hours if you are an oil fanatic.

If you are happy to change pads then definately DIY the rotors as well. Take caliper off and then take caliper bracket off (caliper bracket bolts will likely be very tight) Remove a single screw on rotor face that holds it on hub (if fitted, soak in wd40 before removing) Tap rotor with rubber mallet till it falls of, put new rotor on. I have changed any e60 rotors so there may be a sensor to remove or similar but still and easy job.

Ah when I had steering angle issues the light would come on after a minute of driving each time. I've read about people with it permanently on just running the steering angle calibration in INPA and getting rid of it. Cheaper to get a cable and download INPA than a trip to the dealership and you get the cable to keep, as long as you have a laptop.

No one on the board near you with a cable and bmw diagnostic software? Does it stay on or does it come on shortly after driving? I had steering angle errors after changing control arms and the steering wheel was a few degress off until I got an alignment then it went away permanently, bmw e39 should be similar.

If you had not shown me, I would not have believed. Words escape me.

My 540i has always had spongy brakes, I bled it when I bought it but no dice. I assumed it had crap pads but one day my right front hose blew out and I wonder if it was just expanding this hose as it was weak (damaged), I replaced all with stainless lines and bled, better but still crap. I just put hawk hps pads in and bled 1L of BNT RBF600? (higher temp stuff) fluid through and its no better. However curiously on less warm mornings (less than 10C) I have perfect brakes, and this doesnt seem to change as I use the brakes which leads me to believe it is an issue with something not directly affected by brake temperature but by air temp. Current theories of mine, bad wheel bearing, bad master cylinder, air in DSC/ABS, and issue with right front caliper Current symptoms are spongy brake pedal like air in lines when air temp above 10C, squeak from right front caliper when braking and cornering tightly, same right front caliper has slight play as if guide pins were loose but they are definately not, same caliper outside pad is not making full contact with rotor (20mm rust ring on outside of rotor, have bedded properly and run these pads for 1500km) I have ordered guide pins, guide pin bushes and piston seal and dustboot for right front caliper and piston seal and dust boots for the other 3 calipers, I have also ordered a new master cylinder. Will update when I resolve this issue but in the interests of all the threads that helped me I thought I would start this one and resolve it, and actually reply with the solution. EDIT: have checked for leaks and no none are present, after two weeks level had not moved in brake master cylinder reservoir. EDIT 2: rebuilt the caliper that had play with new seal, new dustboot, new guide pins and new guide pin bushes. Piston was in near perfect nick, just some tiny rust colour staining that rubbed off and it looked brand new. Bled that caliper and brakes are not any better.

For me in the e46 the valves inside the jets had come apart was fiddly to reassemble the little bits but solved my issue. Could hear the pump but no fluid came out until I did this then worked fine.

I bought powerflex urethane one but didn't like them, noticeably harsher so I bought Meyle HD solid rubber ones and they have plastic reinforcements where the OEM ones tear. They are good so far... Did you load the suspension before torquing? I had intended to but I have no issues anymore with suspension so I will hold off for now. Will probably do them with engine mounts and transmission mounts in a year or so.

1999 Motorsport 540i with 132,000km all original suspension. Here's some notes for people considering changing suspension parts. Thrust arms bush was shot, balljoint was good Front straight control arm, bush looked fine and balljoint seemed alright but was a noticeable improvement when changed Swaybar links front were fine Swaybar links rear were shot Both rear control arms had torn boots on the balljoint but seemed ok, noticeable improvement when changed. Rear balljoints were shot Shocks were all dead, fronts were completely shot, rears were just bad. If you get height adjustable coilovers 10kg front and 8kg rear is stiff and as high as you should go on a daily. If you get coilovers then get thrust bearings or similar to avoid coilover noise. You can use 5/8 instead of 16mm as there are a few 16mm nuts and bolts You will need an 18mm socket Thrust arms and rear balljoints were huge improvements when changed Rear balljoint has a 24mm and will need a minimum 1ft breaker bar or large torque wrench to undo Jack up both sides at the same time to remove swaybar links otherwise they will have tension on them. Record your hub to guard height so you can jack up hubs to torque bushes under load. You will need a meaty balljoint splitter for thrust arms, you will need a decent tool for rear balljoints. I went for drives several times during the process so I can provide some feedback on what part fixed what problem. Clunk when one wheel goes over a bump before the other/general loos feeling when going over speed bumps turned out to be thrust arm bushes for me. Rear end looseness and shimmy from the rear when cornering and going over small bumps was rear balljoint for me. The other control arms just seemed to soften the damping, now the rides is more comfortable and more quiet. New shocks don't hiss over bumps, car feels much 'tighter' absorbs shocks now and stays planted rather than bouncing over them. Happy to answer questions or lend a hand, am in hill park manurewa.

Got a full rear suspension overhaul on the e39 done in the driveway. All 4 arms changed, rear balljoints, rear swaybar links, swaybar bushes, integral links. So much better now, was zooming around hill park manurewa when a tidy e39 m5 passed me by.

Yeesh, that black on the bonnet is hideous. Im concerned about the amount of bog on the arches, sort of how my old cortina was held together....

Put a set of fortune auto 500 coilovers in the 540i last weekend and new thrust arms, went meyle HD. (proper franklin balljoint splitter made this a breeze) This weekend was new hawk HPS brake pads in the 540i and new OEM ATE and Jurid pads in the 318i. Just placed an order with ECStuning for all new lemfoerder bits, front straight control arm, front swaybar links, rear both control arms, rear balljoints, rear swaybar links. E39 will be riding on all new suspension shortly.

Spot on! Thankyou very much it was going to bug me.

So I did the m60 manifold with velocity stack swap and changed valve cover gaskets, ccv, ccv gasket, cleaned throttlebody changed gaskets etc however now I have put it all back together I have this rubber ring left over. Seems too chunky to be an o-ring, perhaps it goes over a cable? No part number on it and I cant for the life of me think where it came from. I also had passenger airbox off to have a look at fuses underneath. I have just sat it on radiator shroud to give an idea of size- its about 10mm in height 1999 540i m62tu jap import automatic. online photo sharing

He bought it about 2 months ago for 18k or less off trademe and appears to have hardly driven it if at all. The interior colour is caramel and the car is a south African import with no real service history, the appearance of the car doesn't reflect that it has been well maintained. Last time I saw it the front bumper was cracked etc.

Leatherique seems to be the goto dye on the net, a number of BMW forum threads of these products.

With those figures perhaps you are using the m3 coupe or sedan weight? the vert weighs over 150kg more than the other m3's. I wouldave loved to see this go into the much lighter coupe or sedan.