jon dee

Here ya go... all the interior pics I have just now... Car is located in Karori, Wellington. No problem if you want to arrange for someone to come and take a look. Cheers...

Few details of what has been done to this car recently... ~ two new OEM turbos fitted at 82km under mechanical insurance warranty (to fix waste gate rattle) ~ 6 x new coils, 6 x plugs, cam cover gasket, sump gasket fitted at 82km ~ full set new Zimmermann brake rotors and Hawk HPS pads fitted at 85km ~ full set of Bilstein B3 struts and shocks with all new bushings fitted at 85km ~ upgraded (stepped) all alloy intercooler with C-clips to suit OEM hoses ~ alloy upper charge pipe (retains OEM Bosch by-pass valves) ~ new cowl filter and new OEM air filter element at 90km ~ correct size spacesaver spare, BMW specific jack and wheelbrace in the boot ~ external catchcan mod with can mounted at front of engine for ease of servicing ~ M3 front lower control arms fitted (M3 upper arms included in spares) ~ full set Bridgestone Potenza Adrenalin RE003 non-runflat tyres fitted at 85km ~ MHD stage 1+ engine tune installed with OTS map pack and monitor licence ~ xHP stage 3 transmission tune installed with licence and OTS map pack Car is currently sitting at a little over 93km and will increase as it does get used, mostly in the weekends. Serviced annually (due to low usage) with Castrol Edge and a new oil filter. Black leather interior in very good condition. Standard exhaust and OEM catted downpipes (new set of WBO2 sensors in the spares). Standard instrumentation, radio changed to Oceania, Nav system not converted. All electrics seem to be working fine although there are few controls I have never used/don't need. Cheers...

***SOLD...SOLD...SOLD*** Change of direction means selling my E92. Just turned 93,000km and running fine... no codes and no problems. So if anyone is looking at getting into a 335i for a fun car, here is one that has a lot of the upgrades already done Asking $13.5k here and when it goes on TM it will be $14.5k. Wheels have some kerbing that I have smoothed out and look presentable. One small dint that I haven't had repaired as it doesn't detract from the overall good impression that this car creates when viewed. Got nothing to do ? See if you can find the dint More pics (interior, engine bay etc) available, and happy to discuss details of what has been done and what remains to be done to make this an even better gentleman's fast road car. Cheers...

CHEAP... RELIABLE... BMW You can have any two Cheers...

Looks like it could have had a wee nudge in the front that damaged the thing that holds the number plate and realigned the front end. Price adjusted accordingly of course But still M5 and V10... looks good on ya resume !!! Cheers...

Yeah... I guess there are other ways of getting there, but I don't have any hardware capable of running NCS so not an option for me. It was suggested that if the region was changed back to JAPAN to get the MD working, it may be possible to change the radio frequency range back to the EURO/NZ range by coding. In reality, having six CD's tucked away neatly in the boot is a lot tidier and safer than having to sort and change minidiscs on the fly Cheers...

Appears that the MD option does disappear when the region is changed from JAPAN to OCEANIA. Therefore if you want MD functionality you need to tell the car it is still in Japan, and that you are happy with Japanese radio and NAV I have no use for NAV but I do like having the radio working properly for NZ stations. And I make my own compilation discs for the CD stacker so no worries about being able to listen to my favorites. If anyone was desperate to get the MD working I guess they could revert the region to JAPAN, forget about NAV and install a band expander... Cheers...

Japanese language users handbook that came with the car clearly covers the MD player and shows where it should be in the Idrive menu. Therefore it seems that it has either been coded out or deleted by some other action. Cheers...

WARNING... Post Necro Tried to insert a MD into the MD slot on the E92 today and it wouldn't accept the disc. Went pretty much all the way in but no action from the player and the disc did not get "sucked in" like a CD. I-drive does not have any reference to MD among the various input options. So question... does the car have to be coded to show MD as an input option and allow the player to operate ? Cheers... PS: Car has these options if it makes any difference.

And keep in mind that the spring has to remain captive at full droop if you go for a cert Cheers...

The fact that the shock is threaded all the way up tends to indicate that it could be used as a coilover shock. But that doesn't mean that it cannot be used as a standalone shock with a separate spring. If it was used as a coilover it would have an adjustable spring perch similar to the perch threaded onto the separate small sleeve that you have in the pic... Also, coilover springs are closed and ground both ends so that they sit flat on the perches. Separate (OEM style) are usually open both ends and sit into specially formed perches. However, that shock in your pic does not look as if it had a spring perch used on it, so if you can make it fit with a separate spring ... gopher it Cheers...

Checking for codes is the easy first step. You just need to find someone with a BMW OBD2 code reader. How many km has the car done ? The difference in octane rating is not that great, so to get an engine light when changing fuels one of the parameters that the ECU monitors must be hovering near the tripping point. Maybe something like incipient knock. Do you feel any loss of power as if the ECU was pulling timing when the light comes on ? Cheers...

It does not pay to have high expectations from the denizens of FB marketplace...

As I understand it (and I am open to correction) in the event of a successful salvage, ownership of the cars on the vessel would pass to the salvor and/or insurance companies involved. Had the vessel been towed to a safe harbour and if there were cars that had not been directly involved in the fire, they could have been sold. Of course we shall never know what it looked like on the vehicle decks... unless someone releases pix or video at some later date. Should be some lessons to be learned seeing as this is the Felicity Ace fire comes 3 years after the Sincerity Ace fire. Cheers...

Probably the best outcome for VAG. Now there will not be hundreds of salvaged Porches polluting the new Porche market Cheers...

What he ^^^^ says. I have a vinyl sticker on my helmet just to make it easy to identify in case I put it down somewhere. Never drew any attention at scrutineering for clubsport events. The scrutineers are only looking for the SNELL or SFI stickers that show the helmet is approved for motorsport use, so best not to obscure them. Cheers...

On TM right now...

There seems to be two ways of making pops and bangs. Retarded ignition and lean mixture or very retarded ignition and fuel injected on the exhaust stroke. The latter is better if you want pops, bangs and flames, but it is not recommended if you have exhaust cats. The former is what you might have heard from old school racing cars or motorcycles running carbs. That is... genuine pops and bangs versus faux pops and bangs from EFI cars Cheers...

What he ^^^^ said . It does what it says on the box... You don't need an upgraded intercooler for Stage 1 if you are just street driving like a mature adult. But if you are doing back to back 0-160kph pulls, racing or towing a caravan uphill, upgrading is a good idea. The gains shown are for a car in good condition that is making the stock rating of 300hp @ the crank and running 102ron. If your engine is tired you will still see good gains on 98oct for as long as it lasts

Be worth trying water cannons to extinguish a parliamentary protest though... I'd pay to view Cheers...

Pretty sure that VDO actually make N54 pumps for BMW, and Pierburg are another reputable European manufacturer. Noteworthy that Pierburg have actually come out with an alloy pump that they claim eliminates the cracking that is a frequent cause of leaks from the plastic pump housing. They also claim to have found a resolution to the design weakness in the pump motors that causes motor failure due to coolant getting amongst the electrics. https://www.bimmerworld.com/Cooling/Water-Pumps/N54-N55-Pierburg-BMW-Electric-Water-Pump-11517632426.html I have asked FCP if they can get them but apparently not yet. Other places can supply but they want stupid money for shipping, so I'm just waiting until I actually need one. But for sure when the time comes I want the alloy pump housing !! Cheers... PS: There is actually one (alloy Pierbug pump) for sale on TM at the moment for $999.

This guy... https://stanceworks.com/forums/showthread.php?61618-e30-316-rebuild-from-Finland/page2 converted a set of BBS 2-piece to 3-piece using the angle grinder method Also made a set of 3-piece from 1-piece "bottletops" elsewhere in the thread. https://stanceworks.com/forums/showthread.php?4899-The-BBS-RC-090-BMW-Style-5-wheels-thread/page14 Fully recommend that E30 fans and rebuilders/restorers read the whole thread from the beginning as the work the guy does is simply outstanding !!! Lots of sexy pics in the thread also... grab a couple of beers and enjoy Cheers...

N54 water pumps run about $1000 on trademe, and it is somewhat of a pain to change them, so I can easily see it being a $1500 job by the time incidentals are added. Recommended to change the thermostat assembly at the same time and that will add another $200 It is a wonder old school cars could even get out of the garage without a PWM pump and electronic thermostat... but they did. And if you threw $100 worth of parts at them every 100,000 kms they were good to go Cheers...

Probably depends on how the barrels are constructed. If they are made from an inner and an outer welded together to make a one-piece rim they can possibly be separated by cutting the weld on a lathe. Then a new outer can be fitted to give you a bit more lip. However, if the the barrel is formed as a single piece (more likely with BBS) then cutting and fitting a wider outer lip is not an option. You could of course have have new two-piece barrels made to fit your centres. Then you can choose the rim width and offset that you want, although the shape of the outer lip will likely differ from the BBS rim if you are picky Better option might be to buy a set of three-piece wheels. Cheers...

The widebody look