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Sammo

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Posts posted by Sammo

  11. Posted · Report reply

    On 10/23/2022 at 3:02 PM, dubman said:

    Took me a few weekends to get this done; removed the previous lap weld rust repairs & redid the repair. Tried my best to protect the wiring from heat & the grinder so I don’t have to bust out the soldering iron 😂

    Will tidy up all the flash & surface rust before KBS rust seal top coat. 

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    Was the motor out to weld in this area? got some rust there too (under glovebox / firewall skin)  that I've done a temp patch on but will need doing properly eventually...

  15. Posted · Report reply

    1 hour ago, E30 325i Rag-Top said:

    Could be a good excuse to change back to the original 325i exhaust system twin pipes, but would be $$$s.

    Easy fix with a bit of a grind out and a blob of weld.

    Aside from a bit of drone under low load at 1500-2000 (rarely experienced due to gearing) I’m very happy with the current sound.

    This is the only part where it goes to a single pipe - presumably adapted to fit the one in two out Remus muffler.

    • Like 1

  16. Posted · Report reply

    2 minutes ago, Eagle said:

    Least you know where you at now

    Damage from jacking without wood etc block?. Yeah it appears to be. You could probably hear, feel or smell it but could also spray bottle some water to confirm.

    Correct again! Can also detect a tiny rasp / buzz at 3k that was not there previously.

    One step forward, two steps back haha 

    • Haha 1

  17. Posted · Edited by Sammo · Report reply

    On 1/4/2023 at 4:18 PM, Eagle said:

    Did you have any vibrations before hand? What are brand are the mounts? Ive had new OEM engine mounts cause vibrations that weren't there previously, so its possible. 

    Is transmission crossmember parallel and not at a poor angle? Should sit so the driveshaft looks straight from the transmission to the rear looking at it from the bottom. I dont remember what the E30 crossmember looks like but there is usually some adjustment. 

    I guess its possible you upset the flex disc depending on how you jacked it, if its old it may of stretched\cracked. I usually jack up the transmission from the rear just in front of the cross member with some wood, just so its just touching, undo the bolts then it lower it down to get access. 

    Transmission nuts are 43-48nm according to E30 Bentley, wouldn't be easy the do that with a standard ring spanner under the car. 

    Maybe a bit of a pita if you re-install the old mounts, maybe one set at a time and re-test, at least it will eliminate the new stuff (once all the other checks are done)

    Thanks man - summoned up the energy to try again today and you were correct on two counts:

    I had slightly misaligned the cross member (took off one side to squeeze in the new mount) and noticed a quirk (defect?) with the new mounts:

    On the side where it mounts to the cross member the metal base was clearly convex (pictures show it below but quite obvious IRL) meaning it wouldn’t sit flush on the cross member and would also try to spin on its base when I tried torquing the lower nuts.

    Put the old mounts back in and while I can still detect a slight vibration at 1250 and 2000, this is only in neutral with the clutch out and car stationary - it goes away as soon as the clutch is depressed and is not detectable at all while driving.

    I suspect it may be an existing minor clutch component vibration which was made more obvious with the new mounts and my poor install effort.

    I did find / create another side issue though - replaced my rear exhaust hanger bushing (rubber figure 8 thing) and think I’ve created a little exhaust leak wrestling with the exhaust to get the rubber on 😑 I assume an exhaust leak looks like this:

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    • Like 1

  18. Posted · Edited by Sammo · Report reply

    Changed out my engine mounts and transmission mounts yesterday (with OEM rubber) and all seemed to go well but on my test drive had a strong vibration at low rpm.
     
    Got under car again and saw the exhaust bracket bolts where it connects to trans were loose (presumably from me jacking up the tranny to change the mounts) - this only helped but didn’t solve the problem though…
     
    Still have a mild vibration right under my drivers seat at around 1.25k and 2k rpm (it goes away if clutch is depressed).
    I re-checked the nuts and believe I installed the transmission mounts correctly - only thing is I used different top nuts to what was on beforehand (I used a flange nut with washer as the ones that were on it were some kind of one piece design and partially rounded.
     
    I did not torque the top nuts as I could only fit a little 13mm wrench on them so just tightened as much as I could.
     
    Any thoughts? I assume as it goes away with the clutch disengaged it indicates it’s driveline related, most likely something I did wrong installing the new mounts... the DIY I followed was similar to the engine mount process - i.e. jack up slowly until you can carefully remove and replace mounts - wondering if I should have removed the brace instead to minimise lifting the tranmission?
     

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