elias

Had so much fun at the hillclimb I decided to take it to another event, Hooncorp event at the mere mere drift track. Was great fun and ended up 4th/37 on the day, only one second behind a purpose built turbo 1UZ swapped e36 coupe on 265s. Car performed flawlessly once again, albeit oil temps getting up there, not an issue on a short 2 lap sprint, but definitely something to think about for longer events. Stoked to be putting the car to use, halfcage, harness and bucket seats aren't just for decoration.

Been a while since I posted in here, been very busy with my (hopefully) last semester of uni. Took the 135 to tis first msnz event, doctors hill road hillclimb. Really enjoyed it and the car did really well! Managed 13th/34 on the day, not bad considering it was my first event and there was quite a few pretty serious racecars. IMG_7673.MOV

i know the guy that owns it, pretty tidy car, the rear end 'aero' is a bit questionable though, but to each their own.

yes e9x 335i have reached an all time low in depreciation. Not really in a position to talk too much since my 135i isn't exactly unmolested either, but the majority are now driven by yobos with heinous burble tunes and never see any maintenance but a bunch of aliexpress bolt ons. Also quite a few being crashed. Not many tidy ones around.

im on the shore too, car looks great, let me know once you fix the oil leak, id be keen to catch up for a drive

yeah that is good value, best value for oil filters locally ive found is **** n54/55 is same as n52

@HELLBM may be able to help should you be interested in a conversion

All sorted have sourced one

Not much been happening with the car lately, but finally got the rollbar homologation done so its all officially MSNZ approved now, logbooked, homologated, got my car club membership and M grade license so ready for a hillclimb later in the year. Still need to get around to measuring correct swaybar endlink length and order a set of adjustable ones.

try @HELLBM

Anyone selling a good condition HANS device before i buy new? Cheers

would second this, extremely expensive (got to pay for that fancy waiting room somehow) but if insurance is paying id be going there

This is my hope too, really only after a n55 m2, preferably LCI, so definitely one o the less desirable ones compared to a comp, but might just wait another year till they come down to the low 40s more consistently and maybe find a cheap one for high 30s. Until then I guess ill keep my 135i unless something interesting comes up.

yeah i get what you are saying, maybe being a bit optimistic. Not necessarily after a crashed one, but something with issues, for two reasons, because cheaper, and because i enjoy working on cars, want something that i can work on and build into my own, hence id rather start with something a little rough with potential issues, oil leaks etc etc than a mint one. My current project is pretty much complete (can take a look in the projects section), that one stated out as the cheapest 135i in nz with a fair few issues and is now, in my opinion one of the most unique in nz, but not much left for me to do. I have repaired a crashed car in the past, it was crashed but uninsured, so didnt have any issues with write off etc, but had no structural damage, i repaired it and sold it for a profit (e46 330ci). I enjoyed that project a lot and it made sense as i was able to sell it for a profit. In regards to finding an m2, ideally id like an n55 one with some mechanical issues, oil leaks, valvetronic issues or similar problems and obviously at a lower price. Yes i could save up more cash and buy a tidy one but why not use mechanical skills to my advantage to get a cheaper one. But the problem is they arent yet old enough that there are many broken ones around, unlike n54 cars which are all clapped out and cheap now.

can get the mosfets replaced which is significantly cheaper than replacing the entire DME.

ah thats unfortunate, yeah its good fun trying to stay on the bike

would need to read codes, but could be DME mosfets if its MSD80. Fairly common issue.

sorry to hear about the trouble its been giving you, is that out at woodhill? Im out there fairly often riding my bike, might see you there sometime!

yeah if they are in a state where it is viable to get them back on the road then I would definitely consider that, have got a good panelbeater. Any recommendations on where to look, best to keep an eye on trademe? Cheers!

Anyone got an f87 m2 with mechanical issues or is in another other way damaged, hence cheap? Long shot I know but looking for a new project, not worried about kms, spec etc etc, just has to be an m2 and pref. not insurance write off. Update: Will also consider e92 m3s, pref. lowish kms though. Can offer swap for a modified 135i, or sell the 135 and do cash. Cheers

Got the car back from the Panelbeater this evening, looks the best it ever has. Both doors and the rear quarter resprayed. If you ever need panelbeating/paint work done in Auckland I can't recommend Neville at Bute Collision Repair Browns Bay enough, absolute legend always does an amazing job and very reasonable prices, this job was 1/5th the cost of what other places had quoted. Safe to say i wont be parking it on that Culdesac anymore.

im sure therred be a fuel pump fuse somewhere, but have never looked, easy enough to just pull the injector wires.

Took the car out for a drive and decided to take some photos last night before dropping it off to get the speed stripes fixed today.

nice! where does one find a deal like this? would love another n54 project

Priming your engine oil is only necessary if you interrupt the the oil supply circuit such as removing the oil filter housing, removing the oil cooler or oil cooler lines etc. A normal oil change wont require priming. The easiest way to prime the oil is to disconnect all 6 fuel injector's electrical connectors, then crank the engine for 10 seconds, give it 20 seconds to allow the starter motor to cool off again, then repeat 2 more times. The starter motor will turn over the engine which will run the oil pump and prime your oil. Then plug all the fuel injectors' connectors back in and start the car.