Ghost Chip

@Sammo It really depends - if it’s modified then I’d be questioning the who/where/when/how/what and is it certed, or has it been serviced at all - any records, I’d look at the WOF sheet to see if it failed on anything or any warnings, list of question goes on. I’d be wary of the “no known rust” statement. Some people are just happy to be ignorant of these issues because they know they’re going to sell it off eventually anyway. Whereas, I would actively look for them as I’m a bit more pedantic about a car I want to keep tidy. I’ve viewed several e36s and e30s before buying mine and honestly, I can say that all of the people who said “no known rust” or some kind of iteration of that, I found rust within the first minute of inspection. Granted, some were surface but I’ve found some to have corrosion as well. I’ve even found on an e30 the left side tray in the boot by the antenna filled with water without the owner knowing. Personally, the higher the price tag, the more I’d actually want to check in person as I want to be sure that the car is worth the price. That’s mostly because I don’t have a lot of expendable income and only starting to wrench. If you’re neither of that, I would probably approach it as @BMTHUG would, as long as the seller doesn’t seem dodgy, and has recent WOF and reg. If it’s from someone here that actually posts, I’d buy it sight unseen as most of the members here are enthusiasts and seem to be more trustworthy than the fb counterparts. You could potentially ask a favour from the seller or someone here to have a PPI done, and/or maybe ask them to get you a new WOF with vtnz. In saying that, I missed out on a very tidy one as I was hesitant in buying sight unseen - albeit at the time it was priced relatively a bit on the higher side than market value. So at the end of the day, it’s your money and decision so do your due diligence and go with your gut.

Sorry to hear mate! Electronics alright?

@Palazzo for some reason I feel like that’s quite cheap

The hustle is real.

@dirtydoogle Oh nah, I was merely saying that you don’t have to be on a track to notice any changes when you have another person in the car. I agree, it is a whole different thing. That was really what I was getting at when I commented that, I was just too lazy to explain myself further.

Even going around town, you’d feel the difference when another person is in the car. Although have never tried with a SUV or a Ute.

Update: Finally arrived this morning! Ended up going with the Toptul 3/8” 19-110Nm as it suited my immediate needs, will probably buy as needed again in the future. Was going to use on the wheels today but totally forgot that I didn’t have a 3/8” to 1/2” converter - big fail 😂. Thanks for all the suggestions!

@Cammsport I’m not sure as I’m not too sure how I would know if it contacted it haha, but even on a straight in the motorway it’s the same. Ah, I’ll have a look at your thread and have a further dig on the old interwebs. Car is certed already so looks like PO got away with it? I wonder if it would be worth doing it anyway to insulate the engine bay from more heat. Cheers for the help Cam

If that’s the reason why, I’m happy to chuck in an ad for you now 😂

Agreed with @Cammsport, but you’re not going to sell it anyway so no worries @E28E30 😉

For context I’m running a m52 swapped e30 with a purple tag rack, and revshift motor and transmission mounts Asked this on the project thread but thought may get more answers here. Getting a lot of road vibrations on the steering wheel in high speeds/motorway, not noticeable in idle or when driving around residential roads. Feel like the two culprits could be the mounts or the steering linkage. Want to ask a question for people who have similar set ups or have a better clue than I do. What are you running for your mounts and steering linkage? Mine currently look like below compared to what it should be like. I was looking at a post that talked about doing a e36 hybrid (upper UJ from e30 and lower UJ from e36) which keeps the guibo looking thing to then hopefully reduce the vibrations. It looks like mine just got deleted to make it fit. Other solutions seem to be to use the barina linkage which I have no clue on.

FACT. Yeah you’re right about that as well. The fun bit is working on it, although have had a few head scratching moments already 😂. Probably will keep rising as supply vs demand but I wonder if it’ll be a bit more relaxed as borders open.

@Sammo very classy of the seller to make some racist Uber driver comments on that first one. Second one has some potential but a shame that it’s not a ZF. To think I turned down a 14k factory manual 328i coupe a few months back that was actually tidy as I thought it was a bit pricey for what it is. The problem really is that people buy them, not the dreamers that sell them. Unfortunately with my purchase of an e30, I’ve become part of that problem 😂. Although, with the price that is being listed now (even just a few months after) for other e30s, I feel like I got a bargain 😆.

Time to do some more maintenance for now on the car, which means fluids! What are people’s recommendations for fluids for a m52+zf swapped e30 - Brake fluid - Engine oil + filter. Tossing up between the 20L Penrite HPR 5w-40 or racing 10w-40 (couldn’t find any non-racing 10w-40) - Coolant (already replaced it but keen to know what people think) - Transmission oil (probably not needed but keen to hear people’s thoughts) - Diff oil?? - Any others that I’m missing, fluid-wise but also for maintenance? (Won’t be replacing gaskets until the car gets stripped for panel + paint. Will also be doing a cooling overhaul at that point.) Cheers!

@BMTHUG Would be great if you could PM me (I can’t for some reason), just have a question about the fan. Cheers!

@M3AN I’m no BMW expert but as a car fan, I agree. The contours on that car just screams stunning and is such a timeless design. Can see it in many car manufacturers’ older cars (e.g. Datsun 240z, Ferrari 250 GTO, Shelby Daytona Coupe, etc…). Would love to own any one of them.

Unrelated as I can’t seem to PM you but wait up, are you the SJ that works at apex auto?

I was wondering when it was getting listed and at what price. I’m really curious about the details of the build. It really looks like a stunning car and an amazing build. Everybody has their own preferences so I guess they just need to find someone who has the same taste.

@M3AN Well, I’m neither a kid that’s chasing after skids nor do I have wealth to even show off so clearly I’m having an identity crisis 😂

@M3AN I wouldn’t have also been able to buy my e30 😂

@gjm Some photos would prove it 😉 @Olaf True, I didn’t even think of that but it totally makes sense to sell it in season.

Seller has been trying to sell that for a while now. Seems tidy enough but for an auto rag top, may be a hard sell. Who knows these days.

On the motorway / high speeds. Just get a lot of vibrations from every bump / small rock it seems. What mounts are you running?

Project’s pretty much on hold as Aunty Cindy has grounded us Aucklanders for a while. On other news, managed to track down the previous owner before the owner who sold it to me and managed to find out some other things from the build which has been really helpful. One thing that I’ll need to investigate further is the steering column, it seems that might be the main culprit contributing to the vibrations on the steering wheel. If anyone has any spares lying around, I’d be keen to take them off your hands. Either that or those revshift mounts for the engine and transmission may need to be replaced. The other issue is the wiring for the tiny electric fan, apparently was originally done by someone at Apex Auto. Does anyone here know anyone that works / used to work there (2018-19)?

Sorry to hi-jack the thread but random question. What if you know someone in the US that can ship for you? Has anyone tried this?