polley

Nooooo, we cant use the resistor, we are trying to save gas!

Just turn off bulb checks if possible

Exactly. Sometimes I feel even the M50 turbo is a bit heavy, a lot of weight up high towards the front. A bottom mount M54 turbo would be better imo. I wasnt impressed by the M70 I did in the E28, though it prob lost a bit of its grunt with the zoomies on it.

Not at all, most people space the subframe down 20mm, but this f**ks up your suspension geometry and driveline angle. Would rather sit it down further without making suspension and driveline compromises.

That would definatly wake it up! Unfortunately it makes the front so heavy, and a lot of the weight is up high and forward of the front subframe. Maybe in a bigger car it would be better.

Did you guys ever figure out why your led lights on the new ambulances kept crapping out in under a week?

M62. Might give the m70 ago in the e30 one day, but it seems heavy and lazy.

That can be calculated, and then correct resistor installed. Will draw same current as original bulbs. Bit harder to stop the pulsing though. May as well just disable the checks if possible, as they won't pick up a failed led with the resistor installed in parallel anyways.

In series will reduce current through the led and make it dimmer. Pretty sure it should be in parallel. I could be wrong though

Few sump modifications, not yet completed.

Get the engine to crank first, the ECU wont turn on the fuel pump until it gets a trigger signal from the crank sensor (cannot remember if the old m20 setups prime the fuel pump when key first turned on though). The click you are hearing is most likely the starter solenoid, so double check that the solenoid is operating. If the solenoid is activating then you either have: Missing ground to engine block (measure ohms between engine block and chassis, or alternatively voltage drop across chassis and block when trying to crank) Burnt out contacts in solenoid (measure voltage drop across solenoid when trying to crank) Burnt out starter motor Engine is jammed ( maybe something got f**ked up when putting gearbox on, or trigger wheel bolts are a common one, double check to see ) Main battery feed to start not connected correctly.

All the bmw pumps I've come across have threads in them that you wind a bolt into and pushes the pump out. Ok maybe older ones like m20 etc don't, but others did

I'm seeing a 4.5

Oh well, another engine for Ray.

Enter the e34 crunchy, just have to bring a bbq with ya

Strong assumptions from m3an

Don't see how. No matter how good your cooling system is, if your thermostat is closed the engine is going to get hot. Must of been something wrong with his setup. My M50 has not plastic coolant parts at all and it runs no cooler. Unless he was talking Fahrenheit, then that would be reasonble /alright.

I think if you're doing a swap you would get rid of the plastic reservoir and other plastic coolant parts. Loctite the oil pump bolts (not sure its even an issue). You hear about all these issues on the forums from a handful of people, but there is still tens of thousands around without issues.

Find nearest river, stick head under 3 times. Remove twice.

Its about $600-$700 in parts to do the timing guide rails etc incl chains etc. Easy to do while the engine is out, and going to last another 250,000Km. The engine you get might not even have any problems. I don't see the problem with that.

Im after some purple banana skins, need to reset an ABS light.

Diff needs to be scanned for banana skins.

Thieving bastards

I picked up a 540i dirt cheap, after wrecking it i made a profit and got to keep the engine.

A vacuum leak would be there almost all the time. And would have to be huge to make it stall. My first thoughts were failing crank sensor