mops

On TM now link

On TM now link

Listing this on behalf of my brother: Ultimatley regretfull sale - new job means company car and I can't imagine my baby sitting in the drive 5 days a week so hence the sale. This has been the most amazing car I've ever owned, you cant get anything better for the money and if you want a manual + rear wheel drive, there arnt many options out there ! (other then jappas) Features: 326 HP gen motor, Heated seats, USB input, internal HDD to copy all your CD's / MP3, auto wipers, auto lights, ABS, ESP, 10 speaker premium audio, Xenon Lights, 8x airbags, BMW medical pack, push button start + lots more ! General Description: - BMW 135i late model 2009, 3 litre twin scroll turbo, Motorsport Spec - Updated idrive - 50/50 weight distribution (even the original battery is located in the middle of the car) - 113kms (Japan Import 1st NZ Owner) - Rego expires July 2016 - New WOF (untill early 2017) - Brand new rear Michellin PS3 tires - Beyern 18" Rotary forged Wheels 18x8.5 fronts, 18x9.5 rears - As New (custom offset) - OEM Black front kidney grills (comes with originals) - 6 Speed Manual + Factory short shifter option - MSport Aluminium interior trim package - 2014 Premium NZ maps (also in 3D) this is not cheap ! - Latest ECU update - Always looked after by BM Workshop in Greylynn, ask for Graeme if you want to find out more on # 09-376 1236 Based on having a look @ Prices on trademe, this is the only model as per spec above im looking @ $29,000.00 Please call me on 02102222224 If you are keen to view. Thanks John More photos here

shameless bump before trademe

Hello. I'll post it here before it goes on trademe. After nearly a decade of ownership, Im selling my custom built 85' e30 turbo. Work and kids consume all my time these days, so no time to work on my e30. No time to enjoy it either as I only commute to/from work in rush hour traffick, its a waste of this great machine. I'd rather prefer somebody else enjoying it. Quick rundown of specs below, I'll try to update with more specifics. Drivetrain -fully Rebuilt M20 (bearings, rings, machning, new cylinder head hardware), with b27 crank, 400cc injectors, wasted spark conversion -holset HX35 turbo, 50mm external wastegate, hidden intercooler, not huge but i think it was 200 by 500 or something similar -3 inch exhaust straight through -megasquirt 2 standalone EMS - with wireless adapter so you can tune from your phone . LC1 wideband. -custom clutch... ferrometalic or something. Its great, nearly like stock clutch, just a bit heavier -rebuilt getrag 260 (have receipts somewhere for rebuild). TBH 2nd is getting sloppy, original GB might be better -driveshaft with recenty replaced guibo, bearing and ujoint -3.46 LSD. This is OBX brand lsd, which is basically a copy of Quaife hellical lsd. its awesome. -50mm alloy radiator -devilson methanol injection Brakes: -300x25 front (honda S2k), 4 pot alloy solid caliper (skyline turbo) -296x22 rear (e46 330i), 2 pot solid alloy caliper (skyline turbo) Suspension: -koni adjustable shocks -sports sprins (slightly lowered, slighly stiffer) -nolethane bushes everywhere wheels: -16x7.5 with appropriate spacers -Toyo proxes 225x40x16 interior: -NZKW reclining bucket seats (kinda tired) -heaps of gauges -carpet and interior generally is pretty tired -nice dash mat Performance -never tested on dyno... really -never been to the drag strip... really -at ~14 psi lights up tires once it reaches powerband in 2nd. Pleny fast to get you in trouble quick. Body: -all known rust removed and incl front floorpans, underneath boot, etc. Had a paintjob few years ago, which generally speaking is ok, has some imperfections. -alot under the car like rear subframe, fuel tank and other areas stripped to bare metal then applied POR15 The Bad: Given it's 30 years old car that has been used daily, it has it's imperfections eg. bonnet, sunroof, interior is relatively tired, viewing is recomended. Mechanically however is in excellent shape. Spares (will not sell separately - dont ask) -cylinder head -getrag 260 gearbox -3.64 open diff -3.46 open diff -3.46 diff (worn - for parts) -set of brand new control arms -boxes of random parts -about 0.5l of paint (leftover from the batch) I'll try to add mor details later Pics: Link to gallery Price: $15k, would consider swaps for a famili friendly SUV, such as X5 or similar of similar value. Has been proffesionally valued for insurance purposes for $13k before paintjob. Porbably would cost twice that to build these days.... no test pilots.

Interesting. I have poly bushes all round in my e30, and had them for years, and this never came up. Having said that, I would not recommend poly bushes for a road/street car. You loose alot of comfort and gains are questionable really. Probably the only good thing you can say about them is that you 'feel' the road better but this actaully means less comfort.

I got a set of bottlecaps with good tyres

try lots of different chemicals - turps, acetone, petrol, different type of paint thinners. Normally water based paint shuold come off easily, but i guess this is not a normal water based interior paint.... Also try heat gun, sharp blade jif with scotch brite pad -> I have used that succesfully in the past, however it will require a buff and polish afterwards - finishing off with soem scratchX

I have good set of 6 bosch ones from stock m20b25. Can you advise the part number ? I can look tonigth when i get home.

I have bench tested them (and modified) in the past using compressed air

I got a set of 4 bottlecaps with very decent tyres. Dunno how much tese go for these days ? offer ?

shotgun for 3.46 pm sent.

+1. I also have some misc trim that needs a repaint. Not BMW though.

"tons of power" is such a vague description, its essentially useless for the purposes of this discussion. Also it has been prooven that e30 with huge HP (600+) is almost useless due to lack of traction also you still did not specified what sum you have in mind. For some 3k is big money, for some 15k is small. Money will largely dictate which route you should go in terms of engine and other mods. My advice is research further. I recommend e30tech.com - plenty of build projects there, also search "KA motors e30 turbo build" on r3vlimited

this question gets asked over and over again. Step 1: Search You will find that all similar questions have the same answer, i.e you need to decide how much $$$ you want to spent, how much power you want and what kind of reliability you want eg. cheap 1 bar setup might work ok on the street but will not server long time on the track. Also what helps is if you indicate how much work can you do yourself and how mechanically inclined are you. Have you ever rebuilt an engine ? did non-stock engine swap ? do you have tools for the job and maybe a workshop ?

I would agree definitely agree that having standalone ECU would always be a great idea at any stage as soon as some modifications are introduced. There are however ways (piggyback/chip tune/mapecu/warchip/etc) that would allow low amount of boost on stock ECU (no hard rule here but lets just say 8psi). Fundamentally as long as the engine is not detonating its not going to fail provided other maitenance is in check (eg. good, clean oil) Normally driven street engines dont die - given good maitenance enenvtually rings and bores wear out resulting in high oil consumption and low compression whcih in turn leads to low power and blowby and poor fuel economy, etc. HIghlt stressed competition engies die because some of the components have physically failed, ie. crack pistons/ringlands/rings/head/HG (typically detonation, but otherwise thermal overloading), rods (typically overreving or lubrication) At low boost levels I would not worry about oiling problems unless some engines are prone to such issues (bmw m5x engies do not apply here). reving high is much more stresfull to the engine than low-moderate amounts of boost. FI engines make power by applying similar amount of pressure to the piston for longer time during the stroke, whereas NA engines make power by means of incerasing peak cylinder pressure. Again it comes down the budget and the goals. Daily driven low-moderate boosted engine can be done with stock internals relatively cheaply. Longetivity depends on how it's driven. Surly for serious competition purposes other provisions have to be made to make it last. Did I mention budget and goals ?

Depends on your goals and budget. you can start developing on what you have and change later. If I was doing a turbo project i would do it as follows: Phase 1: This would work to low boost 6-8 psi - hard to say exactly -add turbo - large exhaust housing will reduce detonation therefore allow more psi but will result in slower reponse -new exhaust manifold - fancy low restriction with individual branches will reduce detonation (i.e. more power) -new exhaust -intercooler -slightly larger injectors -RRFPR -wideband oxygen sensor with display -optional tune by adjusting MAF -optional for drivability turbo chip or custom tune or piggyback of some sort -optional meth injection (given its low cost I would always consider if for safety and additional power reasons) -at any point i would recommend standalone EMS to get maximum drivability out of your setup -at this point you will need a LVV cert Phase 2: this should get you to 8-10 psi on factory internals -larger injectors -mandatory: tune, -at this point stock EMS might not be sufficient therefore some form of EMS will be required - piggyback or map conversion or whatnot -i would definitely consider standalone EMS at this point which will allow you to maximize power and drivability, anything less will result in some compromises. -with meth injection and good tune you might get a bit more than 10 psi, given good fuel quality. -with standalone EMS you will be able to run more boost and therefore get more power on race or AV gas or some other high octane additives (toulene ) -at this point you can try thicker headgasket, it might get you a little further. Phase 3: this is where you need to strip the engine and replace components. specifics this will depend on the goals and budget. Phases 1&2 can be done cheaply if you know what you are doing but this will require more $$$ because machining and custom parts are expensive (think thousands of $$$)

Interesting issue. Some things to confirm: New driveshaft was balanced ? On a proper machine that allows balancing two piece driveshafts ? What if the stick the driveshaft only in such machine and spin it ? does it vibrate then ? New UJ's sound suspicious to me. BMW driveshafts mostly have whats known as 'stacked' UJ's which are not replacable. BMW replaced the whole driveshaft. It is actually possible to replace the UJ's, and specialist shops do it but apparently BMW itself does not Replaced guibo ? Guibo bolts straight ? Who did the driveshaft work ? Apparently in these driveshafts need to have some give on the spline where it joins. The collar nut is supposed to be tightened to certain torque allowing the spline to extend/contract Is it an auto or manual ? torque converted rt pressure plate might be off balance causing that issue. Dual or single mass Flywheel ? Dualmass might cause issues if its too worn Otherwise engine running smoothly ? Im thinking maybe if compression is down on one of the cylinders then the torque is not linear across entire engine cycle causing drivetrain components to eventually 'hammer out' imbalance. Is the vibration speed dependent or does it change depending on amount of torque applied (full power vs cruise vs coast vs light application of handbrake). Is the vibration dependent on engine RPM (as in same roadspeed, but different gear) There's also a possibility that this might be the case of driveline misalignment. This is not eay to diagnose, but basically the crankshaft and all related flanges should be directly in line with gearbox and driveshaft and diff. I have seen cases where "geniue OEM" engine mounts were different height than what was on a car. Another very remote possibility is that if engine was rebuilt in the past the rotating assembly might be out of balance, but this would normally cause other issues, specifically damaging the engine itself. Cheers.

SO can you clarify whether the price is with ot without the tires ?

size and specs of rims ? tyres, type and size ?

is it 2 door or 4 door ? how much for driveshaft ?

Im also keen on the sunroof seal if you still have it ?

I recally somebody already tried that and found its not doable this way. I vaguely recall somebody adapted some other model hub using a lathe, but i cant find the article now. Did you searched the net ? There are heaps of threads about it, and there's no easy/cheap way for the front. And I dont like the e36m3 front struts solution because the wheel is no longer centered in the wheel arch - it sits a bit forward or backward (dont remember exactly)

Sure. I have a wideband and I tune by hand on the road.

Fred is UE now, and he's working on it. Bunch of cars running it. I guess check out the website ? I would say freeems is for people who are confortable with electronics - I would say its very DIY. Thing is, you can go and buy off-the-shelf product, installed and tuned. It will cost you $$$$. If budget is not an issue then this is definitely easier solution. MS and freeems are much cheaper solutions, but you will have to spend time to learn and do it right. And if you cut corners it might cost you more hassles. For me learing/installing EMS was an exciting adventure, and the knowledge I gained is usefull even when working with non-custom cars.