Eagle

Easy enough to pickup, but yeah maybe let your mate take on the risk for your nice car. I though id better check the MK ones are standard height after i wrote that. CMP ones are raising type for lowered cars, so if i used them i may not have enough negative camber using stock eccentrics. I read a M3 forums post about a guy using CMP ones with M3 stock springs and he only could get -0.5-1.0 of negative camber. Eibach springs only lowered the rear about 5-8mm on mine, so dont want to risk needing camber arms (cert).

I use HPR5 in all my own cars and most customers. I prefer the 40 viscosity and its usually cheaper especially 20L trade\special price. I also remember reading a technical thread on bobsoilguy about the base stock etc, the consensus was that is was decent.

Originally i wanted to some additional support\rigidity for the subframe floor. The only non intrusive option available at the time was the Vincebar, but they were too expensive and not easily available. CMP engineering in Australia released their updated front and rear version at the end of Sept '22. They much cheaper to buy(just over $400 NZD shipped) and additional tower braces can be bolted on later if required, they can also be installed without having to remove anything from the underside. I got a head start thanks to @Vass giving me the instructions for the rear while i waiting for mine to arrive. The rear was much harder to install than the front, lots more welding in harder positions given you are in the boot. I had already been in there installing the Reddish chassis plates so had to undo alot of work - clearing seam sealer, paint and i had to weld additional material to the Reddish plates to match CMP ones. Also checked the spot welds on the rear chassis rails beneath the rear seats - found one at failed each side. Those were repaired and i did the recommended stich welding between the spot welds (Reddish never mentioned this area) Front was straight forward, much less welding and more comfortable to work (as much as you can expect to be squatting\kneeling in the back). Had to add some additional sheet metal to cover up Reddish cover plate holes. Again the Reddish cover plates made a mess of rear. Once the local BMW wreckers open i will be getting a cut out for the rear boot\tyre well. Once that is tacked and sealed in place it should tidy it up nicely. CMP's methods of removal are much better in this regard too. I certainly recommend CMP over anyone else at the moment. They are only ones to publicly document all failure areas the need to be checked, prices\shipping are good and Cayn the owner is very helpful Here's the instructions which give you an idea. I really cbf'd taking pictures. Front (only fits E46 coupe and sedans with fold down rear seats) - https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/r0yptrrfvz3sh06g3btag/h?dl=0&rlkey=d3ak9st81tz52mwrg6jhi8gq4 Rear - https://www.dropbox.com/sh/sgo61ce8idx7gd5/AAByD0GhZa-EsWnOf31JQbzda?dl=0 Also ordered\installed CMP monoballs. Expensive yes, but i justified it by saying my preload angle for the RTAB pocket was incorrect (i had lowered the car after it was set), they place less stress on the RTAB pocket and ive already converted the lower joint RTAB joint to spherical M3 one. Certainly much more force needed to install these compared to your average bushing. If you are doing them on the car you'd need grade 8.8+ threaded rod, bolt\thrust washer and preferably a long 1\2" ratchet. A ball joint press may work but would be a pita to line up properly. I also painted the outside flanges for the OE look. Ordered solid alloy subframe brushings from MK-motorsport in Germany. Additional research and talking to people has me convinced that it is the way to go. Yeah i should of done them the first time around (could say that for most suspension related work ive done on this car) but you do really get to see how each improvement changes the vehicle, as opposed to doing everything at once.

Loosing my garage space so id thought id try to sell it by doubling the price. Seems legit.

I found poly is just more hassle than its worth on parts that twist. Stopped using it for everything expect fixed mounts after ongoing issues. Would be interesting to compare the steering feel between the solid to the new OE one. Everyone always compares worn OE to new which isn't exactly a fair test.

They are quite hidden but all the monoballs have a flange on them so they stick out unlike the OE ones, with the pink\purple id have to re-paint at least that part for my ocd. Fortunately most subframe mounts are straight alloy or black. Yeah some places are a bit slack like that. I just assume most places are closed till 4th unless its clearly stated somewhere.

Any reason you not going with CMP ones or they too aftermarket looking? Those Eibach ones don't seem to allow much negative camber adjustment (compared to the CMP ones at least), although if that's -1 degree over stock then that's probably adequate for factory camber specs. Yeah im following the same principle in regards to colors, parts have to be black or alloy for factory look. Will have to re-paint the CMP RTAB's as the pink is the worse thing about their parts. If you have to do another order for the gaskets let me know. Ive got minor exhaust leak from my manifold and will likely need a set along with new studs and nuts.

Cayn is the only person ive seen to completely document all the areas that need checking and correcting. Reddish never mentioned checking spot welds under the side of rear seat of which 2 had failed on mine. Since you getting a cert and can install camber arms the CMP raising subframe mounts are a no brainer (and cheapest available). I don't want to put his ones in because Eibachs dont really lower the rear, dont want to risk ending up with low negative camber. Found some from MK-motorsport in Germany that ill probably got with instead. Yep the E46 is certainly a flawed chassis but at least its got a large community to help remedy it. Yeah i can imagine deleting the secondary cats would sound ok but anything else would be obnoxious somewhere in the rev range.

Nice. Hoses look good. What steering rack you got in? Purple tag? Ive just ordered that CMP back (and front) topside brace too, more rigidity the better, shame they weren't available until a few months ago. Going with their monoball rtabs and some solid subframe mounts also. Everyone ive talked to and everything ive read seems to point at the handling benefits being immense for minor NVH, less stress on the floor is always good. Id recommend getting E36 M3 bump stops front and rear if you running Eibachs (are they touring specific springs?). They are about 10-15mm shorter than OE sport ones and allow for more stroke travel before contact, more compliant over big\sharp bumps especially when cornering at higher speeds. not riding on the stiffer upper section as much which can ramp the spring rate up. I think my stock exhaust without the flap working is the perfect volume. Some idle\low down bass and hums away on highway speeds without being annoying. My car is a coupe and probably has less sound deadening than yours so it maybe a bit louder than the average example.

Pretty much what everyone was telling you. If you asked CJ to check this and they didn't then that's very unprofessional. Be aware that cheap aftermarket wheel especially big ones with low profile tyres buckle very easy.

They are awful things to try and maneuver, oversized with a poor turning radius. Just piles of crap in general really, that why they only have one type of owner.

If you actually loved the car you would never let it get to that state, he's just one of those people who run cars into the ground and buy another one. $1 reserve then taking offers is more proof he's an idiot.

Got a draggy for an early xmas present so i give you some specs in the near future.

https://web.archive.org/web/20170730031038/http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-1380806142.htm

You are correct about it being the the mirror, you'd need to replace that with the 433mhz version. Not sure on wiring side, may need a diagram.

Sounds like someone didn't do them up properly.

Yeah could be. Listed for around $3500 awhile ago iirc. Take the shitty wheels of it and it will go faster.

Yeah sorry it was that one not a 520i

Not E60 or front control arm specific but ive read about multiple failures of TMS spherical bearings, the joint and the fitment, they aren't all created equal no doubt. I would think there would be less stress as they don't twist and deflect like rubber. Quality aside the only issues seem to be additional harshness on certain road surfaces.

Haha yeah i forgot about your one. Thinking about it there was also that 520i.

Any reason you went with a self adjusting clutch?

Probably have to double the price in that case. 6 cylinder factory manuals are very rare, only ever seen standard PFL 528's for sale in NZ, never seen a facelifted one myself.

Yeah they are great money pits for sure, but i dont think anything beats them at their price point.

Yeah i can imagine selling that sort of item would really draw out the riff raff

Yeah that's right, i forget the sedan and wagon were facelifted way earlier than the coupes and verts. Have you done any suspension work on it?