Eagle

Yeah you are right, no description on mdecoder so i missed it. Yeah M44 would be a bit of work but so more solid than N4X engine. The extra 100+kg might make it too slow though. I imagine you just drop the whole engine\loom and ecu in from the 330i and away you go after coding. No doubt a few cables and lines to sort out.

Is the rear sway bar the same profile as a regular E46?. Looking at part numbers they list the same diameter for sport and non sport bars with different numbers. Has your car been lowered, looks like it to me?. According to the build sheet you dont have any sport suspension options, seem common to have these with sport seats but nothing else. I see Eibach make compact specific springs and you'd always change dampers. Not sure how common manual ones are but id put a M44 in one if i could get it cheap enough

Subframe floor next?

Spareto and Schmedimann are what id recommend these days. Locally Euroitalian may have something. Id go genuine for the vent valve at least, more reliable and not much more $ than aftermarket stuff. Some aftermarket brands have hoses with inaccurate angles also.

Just discovered ive got E.R.T ones from Spareto in my parts pile. All the ones listed on Spareto look like they would be made in the same place.

Seen at least a couple for sale this year around 12-15k mark iirc. I think they are kept more than sold theses days so maybe harder to find tidy ones.

Think id rather pony up some more and get an tidier iS model for a base. Cosmetic stuff and 'AC regas' wont be that cheap to fix whereas mechanicals are especially if you DIY'ing Good compared to an E30 but what isnt at this point.

Certainly logic in the 'if it aint broke dont fix it' mentality. The way i figure is the original OE parts with the car are likely have the highest quality\quality control. Im on 300,000+ brake seals and wheel bearings with no sign of them failing anything soon. Driveshaft hanger bearings are another item im not so keen on doing these days, aftermarket stuff is average at best and even OE doesnt appear to be what it used it.

Interested to see how the speed bleeders hold up. Surprised you dont have a pressure bleeder?

Yeah if doing to proper B30 conversion then its not quite as appealing. I reckon it would go well enough as is and not worth the expense of doing it.

Much better buy than 330ti though. Throw a few k at it and it should be a decent car.

If it had suspension refresh and had all the common preventative engine stuff etc done then 15k isnt unreasonable to me You don't see them around that much compared to the E36 compacts. Not sold for very long i suppose and the N42\N46 + E46 expenses\issues probably didnt help keep them on the road. The E36 compacts are the polar opposite and why ive kept mine for 3 years and counting.

Yeah assuming Brent sold it for 8k asking it does seem overpriced at 15k. He doesn't appear to have done any substantial work himself based on description (apart from getting a cert)

Built by @BM WORLD Looks fine to me. Hatchbacks can only go so far in the looks dept.

Prices have gone up quite a bit over the years due to E36's becoming more popular and all the parts along with it. If you SC the 4 then it makes a bit more sense to start with that and add whats needed. If you got a complete wreck for cheap enough you could better off , but bigger engined Z3s arent a dime a dozen. Always a gamble buying used parts like engines and transmissions so id rather start with a working car i know is a good base.

Not F30 specific but H&R springs are generally considered to be one of the more firmer\lower options and require uprated dampers. Eibachs would of been the better choice and work ok with B4's or OE replacements. New OE, B4's, Koni SRT, or maybe TRW option if available are about all you can really use for a cheap options. Anything is likely to ride and handle better than your likely worn ones you are riding on at the moment, but looks aside would be probably be downgrade from a fresh OE setup.

Yeah they are fairly plentiful. M50 2.5, M52 2.8 and M54 3.0L engines range from approx $800-$2000. All M4X and M5X engines share the same bellhousing so all gearboxes, flywheel\clutch, starter motor etc can be interchanged\bolted up. Driveshafts usually have to match the specific vehicle type and transmission used, auto and manual have different length front sections. Transmissions are Getrag 220\250 used in ~1.8L-2.5L cars or stronger ZF 320 box used in 2.8L-M3 cars, both use their own cross member, shifter linkages and driveshaft. Diff output flanges can be swapped out to match axles. The Z3 uses a E36 front and E30\318ti rear setup. A lot can be mixed and matched. Dont know of any specific threads myself but Google and http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/Z3/ using part numbers will help you cross reference so you can see what interchanges with what. IMO if you going to a 6 cylinder then its probably way less hassle and cheaper in the long run to buy a 2.8 or 3.0L (especially if you keeping the auto), they arent that expensive and you get the everything along with stronger drivetrain, correct diff, brakes etc etc.

The auto is a old GM 4L30-E originally a 3 speed, heavy and do rob a bit of power but no real flaws when maintained. Not sure how on what they can handle and aftermarket support, would assume its very minimal. S42.net on facebook would give you an idea of what achievable on the 1.9. These engines aren't that cheap to get power out of. ITB\airbox + ecu remap appear to be the best value for money if staying N\A, but otherwise there are a few SC kits available it seems. 6 cylinder swap is certainly the easiest and cheapest, bit more nose heavy depending on the engine, not as reliable and harder to work on but decent output for the $.

Welcome. Is it manual or auto? Whilst Z3's arent the most popular model they quite reliable with the 1.9 engine (only one fatal weakness). Being quite a basic car and using E30 rear suspension setup they don't cost very much to refresh compared to the newer stuff. Feel free to start a project thread when you get it as there's lots of info that can be given if you really want it.

I was getting sick of the diff noises so i swapped the mfactory helical back into my original diff. Decided to do it myself to avoid the shipping hassle and buy the shim kit with new output shaft bearings from difflabs.au. Since i had 4x original shims from both diffs including thinner shim i could build up, figured i could make most sizes without needing to get them machined down. After a bit of fiddling around with different sized shims i got the backlash and gear pattern looking like it was originally. Backlash @ 0.09mm down from 0.14mm so clunking\knocking mostly gone or much quieter. Unfortunately still have a similar gear whine when cruising ~110kph. Both diffs have wear to some extent, but i can only guess based on the previous diff being ok before the solid subframe mounts and\or meyle front diff bushings that they are allowing more noise to be transmitted. The plan now is to convert most of the suspension back to 'OE' spec, chuck in a replacement open diff and sell it when economic outlook is better. I did plan on keeping this but i find i don't really desire to drive the car after converting my Ti to manual. Given the state of the average road these days its very harsh (compared to that) and only really enjoyable when driving fast\hard on decent condition ones. The 80's BMW ethos is what drew me to them nearly 2 decades ago and why i had E30 for 8 years.

Looks like a great example to refresh. No doubt she regret the cheap running costs if she somehow keeps the 4 series for 15 years.

Haha i forgot about UPS. Im sure some of the costs are out of their hands, but certain products seem to be vastly marked up compared to places in the EU. I feel like its the classic case of - company reaches a certain size and becomes more shareholder centric\profit driven.

Just checked, November last year was the last time i used them so i dont think ill ever use them again. It's schmeidmann these days when Spareto doesnt have it. They are a bit slow to ship compared to the rest but are usually quite a bit cheaper than FCP to compensate.

Yeah i dont see the point in doing just the guides either when crappy rings is the main issue, but then if you do those you usually doing a full strip down\refresh. The later model M54 apparently have reinforced valve cover that doesnt crack as much, but you need the later style coil packs to use it. Personally i don't think that's all that common here in NZ at least esp with NZ new cars. The old style coils have better metal design with a more robust base and connector. They feel much more solid and are harder to break\easier to remove. I feel they dont fail as much too but i have no real proof. The new style ones use that plastic quick release tab that can snap and the connectors and coil themselves just feel cheaper and weaker. BMW cost cutting design first used on the legendary N42.

Yeah FCP 'OE supplier' is suspect and why I went with genuine. Like they don't want to brand it because they bought a truck load and don't want loose sales. Did your leave a review so it could be deleted?