Eagle

Are you sure its not steering system that's causing the vague feeling? Idler arm\bushing is probably the most common wear item on that side of it. Wheel alignment and tyres could be another area. Complete Meyle HD or Lemforder control arms would be my pick, the ball joint isnt replaceable. Id probably do the lower arm at the same time unless you on a budget. Front sway bars bushings may yield a small improvement if they haven't been done already.

Thats a good run so yeah good call.

Yeah not a bad project, you'd certainly want a 3.4L to replace the 3L.. Reverse\1st gear thing is could be an issue if all the usual replacement stuff doesnt improve it.

Makes my Ti look good.

These have so many issues and are massive money pits that its probably cheaper to get rid of it now.

I think its overpriced given its likely on heaps of original 22 year old parts. @hqstu will sell you his blue one for around that price and it will be in far better condition despite the milage.

Id assume a shop that does racecar alignments would have one, sort of what i was thinking when typing that. Yeah that would be good if he could do a reading.

Them switching to UPS is worst. Also paying via Paypal through their site doesn't allow you to choose bank currency conversion (no fees for me) and forces you to use sh*t Paypal rate, so dont make that mistake.

None of those besides maybe the '00 E39 maybe would likely sell at those prices (a few of those have been on trademe for a very time). @hqstu for example sold his tidy 540i msport for 7k or 7.5k and it had most of the big ticket items done. They arent that popular and lots to choose from. Id value an average E39 Msport auto @ 4-6k. A good condition one with all major work done @ 8-12k and the equivalent manuals at 15-25k. The average E34 540iA has been listed in 4-8k mark for a long time, they haven't really changed price in any meaningful way in 10 years and suffer the same issue and the E39. They are much more reliable and cheaper to sort mechanically than an E39, but E39's certainly drive and handle much better.

Pretty good. I thinking about doing mine last week but would have to ring around here to find out who can do it. Did you do it via a wheel alignment type business?

Are you talking about the rubber support for the bearing or the actual bearing itself?

Nice colour. Looks like Platanen Green Metallic?

Yeah the spherical bearings have their disadvantages and thats one reason i stuck with M3 OE + limiters. Even replacing the rear lower outer rubber bushing with the sealed bearing the M3 uses makes sharp road transitions more pronounced.

Yeah you can drive mine one day to compare. Id imagine the VQ pulls much harder\stronger the more the revs build up. M54 is just ultra smooth\flat experience with decent low\mid range torque for 3L N\A. A 1.5km drag race vs M3 would be interesting. I'd bet on it edging out the M3 but it would be competitive. For a daily driver i think will be far nicer than a 370z.

Not at the back but a few more around the engine. My old work place we stopped doing jobs like these because they all tend to start failing one after another, aka game of wack-a-hole. Most owners understandably don't want to keep spending 1000's on these sort of repairs.

I misread the diagram. The housing is part no 1 (11537600586) and appears the genuine BMW part contains everything - seals, hose and temp sensor (Some aftermarket kits appear to contain the temp sensor) They are probably using something like this - https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/bmw/radiators/listing/3873650419 Could just be the sensor leaking as mentioned above, maybe hard to differentiate between it and the flange and they just quoted you the whole job (probably requires removal of more stuff)

Have you got N13 or B38 engine? Temperature sensor cracked (common issue on N13 engine) (no 5) or maybe the housing itself or seal has failed. Looks like you can replace the sensor from under the vehicle without taking much off. https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=1A12-EUR-10-2012-F20-BMW-116i&diagId=11_5012

Based on basic Carjam info it has come from Japan and was registered there in '93 hence the year. Where actually came before that from i would assume Germany unless it were shipped in a knock down kit to some other country. It would be odd to have that procedure done in the UK for a LHD car though, guess its possible. Colour could be the just the database being wrong. Ive seen discrepancies before on older models.

He's lucky the BMW took most of the hit. The MR2 doesn't look too bad and has decent shot of being repaired all things considered. Guy crying out about his dream car is the MR2 owner. E87's are a dime a dozen.

Yeah jumper across the brake fluid connector and brake pad wear sensor will turn off those lights off I think the brake wear warning is a yellow ! light not red, red is handbrake and fluid level at least.

Sounds like mine then which is the basic system not hi-fi. No amp in boot? Front bottom and rear parcel speakers are the same size @ ~166mm 3 screw mounts with the front tweeter being 25mm, weird sizing. Suppose you could always get some ok second hand ones given the amount of E46 parts car around.

Any codes on any of the systems? Brake fluid switch ok?

Hi-fi should be the speaker 10 speaker setup with amp. I wouldn't expect all the speakers to be dead unless the amp is faulty. MB Quarts were on ebay and various online shops in US and UK. I havent ordered any myself. Bavsound do a 8 speaker replacement for hi-fi (all expect the bass speakers on the rear parcel tray) with is all plug and play sized and correctly ohm'd to the factory amp. Not cheap @ $550 USD. Ive seen E46 speaker adapters which will allow you to mount std sized mid range speakers (within available space) to front and rear door cards and maybe rear shelf using factory mounting locations. Not sure if they have any fitment issues though or quality of install etc given BMW speaker sizes. The tweeters are 8 ohm and rest of the speakers 2 ohm, most aftermarket speakers are 4 ohms so not ideal for factory amp. Guess you could get away with running 4 ohm speakers instead of 2 ohm if you dont need high volume. Are you trying to upgrade the system? or just get it the sound working with the factory deck?

Man that bonnet is horrendous. Engine and suspension will certainly need some money spend on it no doubt. 2k is fair given most E34's never went up in value, still around the same price range they were 10+ years ago. Would make a good work horse if you can handle to fuel economy.

Looks like you have poverty spec audio like me, no audio option in VIN, 6 speakers with no amp? Best found for the direct replacement (front tweeter housing needs a small mod to fit) and not too badly priced were these - https://www.audiodesign.de/mbquart/english/QM165E46BMW.html Im assuming with no additional amp the factory head deck is going to be crippling him a fair bit.