Eagle

Haha, i predict one being installed in the future. I love my helical

I may of missed it but what diff ratio are you running, guessing LSD?

Id help if out if i could remember exactly what i used but https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/tools-repair-kits/repair-kits/listing/3809340010 is a good investment

Maybe both?. Id certainly put Meyle HD and Lemforder ahead of TRW for arms. Im running Meyle HD as they have replaceable ball joints.

Rear looks looks terrible from that default angle. If you cut the car in half and told me it was the latest Nissan Maxima id believe you.

What brand control arm?

Pointless really

Price at the moment seems reasonable to me for what looks like a tidy facelift. Not a factory manual but may not be an issue for some.

Looks rough but could be a good project. Asking $9800 "Bmw 540i v8 manual touring .m5 gearbox conversion done by Hell BMW silverdale. bmw m62 4.4 v8,286hp ，work has done waterpump ，cam cover gasket,intake gasket It has billstein shock all around with ac schnitzer lowering springs at front,remus exhaust muffler, genuine ac schnitzer wing mirror,racing dynamic front lip and side skirt.new clutch and fly wheel,genuine angle eye headlight from newer year 2000 540i motor sport. M parallel wheels,staging fitment,18x8 and 18x9 with brand new tyres. Bonnet clear coat peeling,gas flap has rust need to fix .boot open flap broken. Car it runs and drive fine , but no wof and rego on hold. No swap,cash only.I don’t need more cars,new home has limited car parks" https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/623942872389024/?hoisted=false&ref=browse_tab&referral_code=marketplace_top_picks&referral_story_type=top_picks

Perfect example of cost cutting

Every Tapley meter ive seen used in NZ is put on the passenger floor (weighted base) and the 30kph test carried out by the tester. Certainly doesn't require 2 people and using it to test a handbrake is not strictly required - inspectors call on what test they use, the above examples are what we'd use as its better and safer on a range of vehicles. Id say they just wanted to drive your car, but i dont like dealerships for anything other than parts so im probably baised.

When stationary it should hold the vehicle with a small amount throttle applied. Should be even tension on both sides ie doesn't drop to one side when pulling the handbrake or applying throttle.

Similar situation to you. I find it hard to get the right wheels for these with spending big money. Ended up buying another set of factory staggered wheels and will run - 4x 18x8.5 ET50 wheels with a 12mm spacers creating a 235/40 square setup. Perfect offset, rotate wheels, cheapest tyres and i can run a full sized spare. Technically does need a cert though but i probably get away with it. E90 wheels would probably be the best fitting factory option, should be able to retrain factory tire sizes or close to - ET~34-39 offsets compared to ET~47-51 on the E46. Personally though i dont think many of the E90 style wheels look right on the E46. People use 5\7 series ET20 wheels which opens but a lot more nice options, but they look stupid imo (stick out too far) and you have to run narrow tyres.

Those parts rarely need replacing i would think, so unless your car has been owned by a munter i cant see them selling very fast.

For me the part number says E46 N42's and E39's - Id be trying to pick-a-part or maybe Zebra.

I thought that was a joke. Surely.

Bottle jack. My fathers Range Rover has a one as factory that ive used in a few situations, its probably the best small\portable jack ive used without having to cart around a small trolley jack.

Lucky most of those cars have a spare wheels and why id never own a car that didn't have one. That's mostly for generating revenue though so it probably is a priority, just like tossers sitting on the highways and pulling people up going 9kph over the limit.

Have you isolated it to gearbox?. Diff, driveshaft and CV axles or combination of them all are the usual suspects.

Personal preference I suppose. Coilovers need cert and aren't necessary always better, depends on what you get and what you you are using the car for. My TRW struts and shock with eibach springs would cost me about $750 landed if I bought today.

Depends on how much drop you are after, they are 45-50mm according to their site. Id rather spend another $75 and get Eibach Pro-kit which is a modest drop and works well with OE sport dampers. Regardless you'd want to replace struts and shocks with something decent and new at the same time, otherwise its going to ride and handle poorly with old worn out units.

As long as the car is on level surface then that level will be correct.

Yeah. Hard line has grommet on around passenger floor/bulkhead for exit. Steering column one for clutch master reservoir line.

Clutch line needs to be straight'ish to go thru to the passage. Guessing you have removed the glove box and pulled back the carpet? Ended up roughly bending it then attaching it to the master cylinder/pedal box and used that to hold it whilst bending it some more around the base, kinda risky but the line was very kinked. Yeah probably easier to remove the Abs module, booster etc to get the soft line in, the grommet is fiddly otherwise. I just set the interlock cable in unlocked position and cut in off near steering column in my E39

They are usually included with new seals so probably why it doesn't show a part number (shows the snap ring on the diagram)