Eagle

Its the same process as removing car emblems, you use dental floss to cut it behind the tape and solvent, caramel wheel etc to remove the reminder. Changing plates isnt very common once everything is tidy looking.

3M VBH tape

So you only have to do it once to qualify for national?. Sounds like National only about half a dozen times a year or less?

Brave + Duckduckgo has 2 alternating ads as the first 2 results but that its. I dont why anyone uses google for a search engine, its been garbage for a long time.

On brave browser there is none(blocked)

Best thing i ever bought for gearbox bolt removal(and engine mounts) was a 24" 1\2" extension, never touched that rubbish multiple 3\8" setup since. Good idea, never considered that. Ive always used a wobble extension for the tight prick on the RHS.

Spareto.com are far better for aftermarket options(and cheaper). Schmiedmann dont have much selection and their aftermarket brands tend to be the lesser ones.

I think some of that can be attributed to crappy facebook messaging system filtering. Its certainly happened to me in the past when receiving and sending.

Could be. Id scan to see if there are any faults and check all fuses. Things like EWS issues or key problems can cause similar symptoms. Do you hear the fuel pump priming?

Cable rarely needs adjusting in my experience if its set correct to begin. The amount of people tighten the cable up(usually for a WOF) thinking their handbrake performance is adjusted is common.

They usually do in my experience. I havent really had any issues with facebook when dealing with mostly BMW related stuff.

Any decent quality rotor is coated\painted at the factory and usually last years depending the environment. Sounds like you got very cheap Chinese ones which are usually bare metal. Some sort of caliper paint would probably be the best bet.

I borrowed @hqstu X3 3.0 for a short period and OBC was around 12 iirc for my mixed driving, the open road was much better around 10L. 4WD system, auto, heavy\tall and short diff ratio makes them guzzle compared to a say a 330 manual. Doing the work you above can't hurt and is good maintenance anyway and probably see some increase but i dont you are far off if any. Id say check the fuel trims too to make sure you havent got any vacuum leaks etc. I always higher tyre pressure than BMW's specs which helps.

BMW specific software eg ISTA on a laptop is probably the best value for money setup and most capable . If you want an actual scan tool then something universal is the best bet imo, will cover most of your standard needs and do a wide range of other cars also. I picked my Foxwell NT809BT on Aliexpress scanner for less than $500, but you can get even cheaper ones depending on your requirements. Having both is ideal and doesnt really cost much in the scheme of things.

@hqstu would know. I believe you have to beat in the sheet metal a bit to fit the housing, run updated IIIa? light control module and some wiring no doubt

Any reputable oil that meet the specs would be fine. Yeah i usually buy a 20L which is usually far better value. Ive used Fuchs in the past but Penrite is well priced and easily available so i tend to stick with it. You'd definitely want to reset the adaptions as well if you do change the fluid, sounds like it probably needs more than that to remedy it.

Money pit is a pretty subjective term. All old cars are money pits if you start to change old parts to refresh\restore them to a near new driving experience and condition. Doing the bare minimum for servicing and WOF requirements may or may not be depending on the condition of car, how its been used, service history and luck. No real information or photos so hard to say much. Japanese imports of this era arent as good as NZ new equivalent (possibly Jatco transmission(jerky gear change issues), IR remote instead of RF, maybe extra emissions gear, no euro trims, little to no service history etc M52 engines are fairly solid and cheapish to repair but usually lots of aged plastics and rubber that can fail. ZF's transmissions last if they have been serviced at some point. Tired suspension is big cost on these but you can things like random electrical failures like ABS modules which can get expensive to fix. Interiors are usually failing to varying degrees, A\C buttons, dash pixels, headlining, rubber seals, wear of seats etc. For a daily driver i dont see the point unless you want to carry passengers in comfort. Be better off with E46 6 cylinder, much cheaper to run\fix and generally less to go wrong. Even a E39 5 series which still has decent space but lighter and more examples to choose from. If you do end up locking something in then get a pre-purchase check by someone who is familiar with the model before you hand over money.

That isn't the correct spec Penrite oil for the 6HP - this is which is much more expensive - https://penriteoil.com.au/products/atf-bmv-full-syn You need at least 2 changes (3 if its bad) to get most of the old oil diluted enough with the fresh stuff if its never been done before (using the drain and fill method). The only time i would do one drain\fill is if its clearly been done before and the oil looks still looks fairly clean.

Having to sign up and pay a $50 fee then do an induction day (not sure if that a separate day?). I thought also needed gloves, boots and neck brace also last time i looked, but maybe they changed that or i got it wrong. Do they do the full circuit often? The club circuit looks rather un-appealing for anything with power wanting to be unleashed.

Skid pan bolts are heavily re-used id say, spending $50 every time you take it off probably never happens. If you doing all the front end work at in one go and not likely to ever remove it in near future it makes more sense. I can see how are going to end up with $200 of bolts now, but most people are probably re-using most of that as you suggest.

M6 bolt is low strength to begin with and fairly easy to snap compared to a M12 subframe bolt. I dont see anything on realoem that says the subframe ones cant be re-used. If they are stretch bolts and need additional angle torque you wouldn't attempt to torque it to that spec if re-using the bolts. Probably as pay as you say to just to do them if you dont want any risk. Just make sure your torque wrench is accurate. Yeah lots of that is for liability reasons im guessing, E46 front subframe brace is a good example. Reality is they are getting used over and over without issue. Even dealers don't seem to follow their own guidelines alot of the time.

Dealers can be reasonably priced for quite a few genuine parts. Ive bought a quite a few bits of RHD specfic stuff and trim bits which ended up being cheaper than Schmiedmann. They just dont seem to stock that much of the older stuff anymore but maybe E90's fair better. If you ordering a whole bunch of stuff already then may as well replace oil pan ones which should be cheap. I probably wouldnt bother with the subframe ones myself but depends on the cost of them and were you are ordering from.

HELLBM is another wrecker one who have those sort of parts Rockauto also add GST unlike the others. They usually only good for a single or a few smaller parts on OE branded stuff, their shipping prices are all over the place are rarely end up cheaper than the others.

Stupid video. Spouts a load of crap with no caveats and puts them all in the comments instead.

Ballin