Eagle

Ive always had a much better match going off a good sample than paint codes, probably for that reason.

Haha. I asked the local parts guy about pricing once - he said they can ring\enquire to Germany about the price, but it can go up or down and then it gets updated to that value regardless. Actually a 21.5mm upper ive never seen -33531091599

Dealer wont be cheaper than Schmeidmann but can be close. I bought the same ones back in the day for bugger all maybe 20-30 NZD ea. My theory is E30 tax caused the hike. Try doubling your spares up for a test?. If it works you modify them a bit better or get something custom made (used to run 10mm poly ones on my E30) Looks like URO do them now - https://www.bimmerworld.com/Suspension-Steering/Springs_Sway_Bars/Rear-Spring-Pad-15mm-Thickness-E30-E36-E46-Z3-Z4.html

Ah didnt know about that 28 days thing. Guessing you not going back to BMW then?

I hope so. Lots of places don't give the sheet unless you ask. I assume they think most people dont understand it or care to have it anyway. 14mm more poke in the rear is quite a bit compared to factory. Id try thicker spring pads if it is the tyre that rubbing. Problem with adjusting camber is the toe changes (more negative more toe out) so technically need another alignment.

Its just 2x simple camber arms ffs, everything else is the same. Nearly 3x the price is something id expect for adjusting coilovers. Sounds like whoever was doing it didnt know what they are doing or they wanted to extract more money out of you, probably both given my experience with dealers. Ive never done the rings because it seems like a game of guess the tolerances.

Id never be convinced he spent even close 100k restoring it. Maybe 50k and he wants another 50k profit.

To be fair the equivalent aftermarket Sachs probably wouldnt last much longer. Those TRW's i put in my car are 62 euro a set from Spareto, so even if they only do 15,000km they are still a good buy.

Reddish ones dont so id say its a CMP thing or maybe the touring is a little different B6's have internal bump stops so shouldnt any on there. I can't remember your reasoning behind getting rid of them? not that im a fan of them either for ride quality reasons, but B4's are overpriced if they only last 25,000km like my ones. Easier to do an alignment with monoball RTAB's and those camber arms compared to stock.

I bought mine nearly 4 years ago as i needed a cheap daily and it was the only thing local for 2k. Money well spend even after dumping a few k into it.

That a fair bit. Assuming you bought them along time ago? maybe they were better quality back then or dont notice the loss as much in the old barges. I had them my W140 and they were fine (compared to the original 220,000km ones) but only did 2000km.

Curious what sort of k's people have on these? IIRC @Olaf and @adro are running these on family? wagons I just replaced the rear set in my compact to try and resolve a harsh and a bit sloppy rear, big rear end improvement just driving casually down the road. Turns out ive done around 25,000km on them, speed bumps, crap road and faster than normal driving hasnt helped them either. Various posts on BMW forums ive come across state they are only good for 20,000-30,000km, which seems to be the case here. Even my tyres have easily outlasted them. Have to do the fronts now because the rear axle is showing it up, they are probably worse off. Eating my own words here when i say you rarely really notice an obvious decrease in performance until you replace them.

Got to be one of BMW worst transmissions. Makes the timing chain guides seem not so bad.

With the total amount you have spend on this i dont think that figure really matters

With heater valve disconnected if should default to open\hot. You should be able to hear it clicking if its working when moving the temperature knob from full cold to hot. If all parts you replaced are working, the system is bled and all hoses are proper hot (you can verify actual temperature with infrared thermometer) then it maybe check the heater flap\cable is moving when going from cold to hot. Never done an E30 but its im assuming its located around the heater box like most vehicles. If its in the closed (forward position?) if will be bypassing the core and not heating air. Not sure what sensors you used but i dont trust aftermarket ones myself. Never heard or seen any BMW OE coolant temp sensors fail tbh. My E30 temperature gauge never read right (think it read low or high)and it turned out to be due to bad ground or something loose in the instrument cluster, cant quite recall (If it was ok before then its probably not that though) Haha Ive used it ever since my first E34 in 2005. Probably a old timer BMW trick i saw somewhere.

I like the feel of my M3 oil cap but don't think i would of bought one myself. Not sure id trust a Febi one to hold up over the long term, but suppose its cheap enough and you keeping you old one no doubt What do they cost?

A poor man or rugged mans way to bleed the system is to put your mouth over the expansion tank hole and use it to pressurize the system. You block the vent hose with finger etc and use the other hand the open and close the bleeder between breathes. I usually crack the bleeder when its upto operating temperature just be sure sure but there is rarely any significant amounts of air. Lost count of how many M20 and M30 engines ive done like this before i had a cooling system pressurizer. You can also drill a 2mm hole in the thermostat arrow to help bleeding but ive never needed to doing the above

Never come across that, where was that stated? Ive seen them all sort of condition on lots of different makes and models, they would have to be extremely worn to cause any obvious clutch issue. Ive replaced them on a few BMW's because OCD\feel good factor, but we lucky we can still buy new parts like these for old cars unlike many other brands. I think i said it before but im certain you got the best mechanical condition E46 in the country.

The lower control arms on earlier models like E34 and E39 rarely went bad in my experience, always ball joint failure rather than the bushing. The tension struts\upper control arms are the ones that take the most load and its usually the bushing the fails. I tend to replace only the bushing if the ball joint is still good because i believe the OE ball joints are superior\tend to last longer than most replacements. The main downside is a chance to damage the ball joint boot upon removal even with the proper tool. In your situation id probably just buy the complete arms with bushings installed either Lemforder or Meyle HD. Not sure what the labour costs would be,but its certainly easier and less hassle with complete arms. Dont have to worry about anyone stuffing the job up either.

If not re-using the bearing then heating around the shaft with a torch whilst having a puller on the hub hasn't failed me yet.

Ive got some genuine BMW sound deadening pad spare if you ever want some to fill in gaps. Guessing tourings have more of it after that pictured front beam?

Yeah i see him advertising on facebook. I think local is fine if you aren't particular about brands and doing small orders. Most of us here go for the higher quality stuff and order lots of parts at once, local doesnt really work well for that.

Wiper delete for looks? Some situations i wish all cars had rear wipers.

Na mine hasn't left the shed in awhile. There's is a few around no doubt.

and all the other electrical stuff