Eagle

Never heard of them until today. All the other parts they have replaced are likely the cheapest they could find going by those.

I'll buy it it's cheap enough

Full on build. Yeah my E46 does have a slight on center numbness to it even with all new bits. Im not sure why they used a rubber disc when most other BMW didnt have one, my E39 had better on center precision. With all this talk I may have to try i think before my upcoming alignment. I had a look at this steering column bush because i replaced my entire assembly with low k M3 one (play in upper bush which isnt practically replaceable from what i could tell). I dont recognize the updated black part that he has replaced though. He did the shaft at the same time though so im sure that was most of it. I also noticed he switched back to rubber RTAB's and is using poly subframe bushings. I do agree with him on them being harsh over sharp edges and for a daily wagon it make more sense if roads are also poor. Handling benefits though i rate them at the top for the money. What the navigation like?. Probably not an issue now but some of the older android units seem to take ages to connect to satellites. Do you have OE reverse sensors and\or camera setup on it?

Are you planning to go to a certain place? Single inlet probably not worth the hassle

Yeah im guessing the cost is in the u-joints + RHD tax. Luckily they seem fairly reliable.

Unlikely to happen but it would be interesting to do a back to back comparison between new rubber and solid. I put a whole new joint in mine due to milage, and as you say the old rubber was much softer than fresh one. Mounting hardware is a bit tacky for a BMW imo.

Final Touch Hamilton - Never used them personally but i know a few people over the years who have had work done, only positive things to say .

Appears to have done a bit of a refresh on it which far ahead than what most re-selllers do.

Yeah safety im sure E46 is way ahead. E36 is more old BMW ethos for sure, but has plenty of advantages over the E46 while still having comparable handling and power.

Kinda the opposite issue, way to slow\heavy imo. Parents manual one struggled to keep up with traffic and my auto was even worse with failed DISA diaphragms. E36 318is would be ideal you got 10k to drop and didnt want a 1.9 Z3 or 318ti.

No msport suspension but LSD optioned.

Put in a single mass in and you wont have to worry about it. Mine started becoming noticeable in the cabin when i put M3 flywheel\clutch in, before that you didnt hear anything unless you were underneath the car.

Sounds like a faulty cluster to me or the temperature sender side of the coolant sensor is playing up in turn causing the gauge to act abnormal. Sensor is easy to test by checking the resistance with multimeter at various temperatures, but otherwise as above with a scan tool or use a infrared thermostat to take readings around the coolant sensor. Id also scan the whole car for any fault codes at the same time.

Never overheating a BMW while looking at it so im not sure, but i would expect it to read the temperature regardless. Sounds like some sort of electrical fault with cluster, maybe the sensor itself or something else. If you have access to any scan tool with live data you should be able see if its reading properly on that. If it is then probably a cluster fault im guessing. EDIT: Im assuming you have bled the system?

If it goes away when you put the clutch in while turning off the car i wouldnt worry about it, most vehicles with a dual mass flywheel have it to varying degrees. You would experience much worse symptoms in the unlikely event the dual mass really starts to fail before a clutch replacement.

Haha yeah ive seen it. Would be fun but too much powerful for this country i think. A normal C55 for 1\4 of the price is plenty powerful for me. Just saw a C32 on facebook go for ~6k, you get decent power out of them with mods.

My old 540i had a single mass conversion done by Hellbm, no idea what flywheel it was but don't recall any issues. It seemed to have big traction issues off the line with 3.15 diff, 275 Bridgestone S001s didn't seem to help that much. Speedfactor may have something

Usually unbolt them from the diff flange and leave them on the driveshaft. Could unbolt it from the driveshaft instead, shouldnt matter either way.

Stihl have a 500i, the 'i' being fuel injected like BMW's

I like my electric stuff for certain small jobs but the batteries (rather the battery management) just aint reliable and are too susceptible to random failures. Long term they end up costing more and get obsoleted eventually even if they dont fail.

Dealer probably knows more about it than anyone here. It was imported into the country in 2019 and only done 6000km since so history is probably very lacking.

Exhaust manifold flange gaskets. All the shifter bushings if they havent been done. Maybe engine\transmission mounts, rear main seal, slave cylinder, flex disc and center bearing depending on their condition\wear.

Patience or just make an realistic offer. A certain percentage of sellers use a higher listing price to get near their actual wanting price, eg list for 20k to get haggled down to 15k, rather than just list it for 15k. Most asking prices are based on what the owner thinks its worth or wants for it rather than true market value. The market is still cooling off and prices are still dropping, you should see more realistic prices from owners who are serious about selling as time goes on.

Saw you looking for parts

Worthwhile improvements.