Neal

Fantastic fabrication on the project !

Where's the popcorn Make it interesting by including double clutch downshift with blip whilst waving

With the AC double check the door clips around mid bass. If these aren't in good condition it can be a source rattles. You want the Oem type ones with the rubber washer for best results. Other thing to check is that your aftermarket crossovers haven't come loose. I mounted mine with hot glue without keying the inside of the door car plastic. They came loose after a couple of months.

Decent sub firing through a ski pass setup works well. Needs to be baffled to reduce the energy in the boot. You end up with rattle free clean bass and don't need too much power. Getting good mid bass out of the door card mounting is a different story without cutting holes.

The whole photo shoot on speed hunters is by the former editor of ithe somewhat dubiously titled magazine called "New Zealand Performance car" Should really be labelled JDM, Drift and 323 mag. It's been quite boring for over a decade now and this is from someone that use to own 13b powered Mazdas. Next time you show your cars rig in a dummy 250 mm turbo as a p1ss take and wack 5 degrees plus of chamber on every corner.

Had similar challenges when I tidied up the pervious owner of my cars nav Mk 4 retrofit. Brought the factory loom and the audio for the factory TV tuner audio stopped working. Both the retrofit guide and WDS weren't clear on which pins the nav audio and TV audio connect to if you have both. Worked it out in the end after I bounced it here for help. The Ulf / Jbit2 replacement guide that hybrid ? did on here was great as well. Used it for the basis of my e46 install which has different colours in parts of the loom.

Iol , 40 amps on lighting via the mini's electrical systems would be amusing . Come to think of it a mate used to run aircraft landing lights in the 80's on his high beams. Wouldn't get a warrant these days.

Was kind of thinking how headlights improvements have been quite marked over the last few decades. I compare the mighty candle power of my Mk1 mini headlights to the xenons in the E46 M3. Even a set of period Cibee's or Lucas 20/20 spotlights struggle in terms of night lighting. And then there is the taillights ....... These new lights would be hard to miss and the indicators make up on ground lost by the hard to see white lens jobs that appeared mid 90's. I reckon bring it on.

Mark was this for upgrading your Mk3 Nav unit to V32 software ?

Once you've confirmed dogs balls suggestions Id be incline to run a direct line from the Ulf pin 33 to tel on pin 11 on bm54. I wouldn't expect to see this signal high with ignition off and no call up. Suspect the operation is different on your old tuner module. The only item in your current setup that would make use of the speed signal (assuming wheel pulse or speed averaged signal) is the MK4 navy unit. Even then its optional as the nav computer calculates average speed based on differential of GPS readings. The old eject box can also be a source for tel on signal. Do you still have the old handset connected

Yes, Tel on, the bit2 / jbit / ulf will keep the signal high for as long as a call is in progress regardless of ignition state. Aftermarket Bluetooth / iPhone devices use the same method . This in turn leaves the bm54 on which in turn leaves the factory amp and aerial amp on. I'd eliminate this as a source of your issue by measuring the voltage on pin 11 on the bm square connector. If this drops after ignition off the it's not your issue. Also check pin 16 (ACC) to insure that the voltage drops after ignition off. Either of this two pins will leave the system on if voltage is present.

The eject box or ulf will keep the bm5x tuners powered up if it thinks a call is up. An aftermarket Bluetooth system can also do the same thing. Worth having a think about in your system.

We dont have the dilemma of rear airbags of the wife's car but was reading about Vovlo that recommended disabling the side airbags next to the capsule. They even have window stickers as a reminder as to which air bags have been disabled. Really comes down to the seat design in my opinion. My daughters car seat would protect her from a side airbag going off.

Sound jumping around sounds like speed dependent volume setting on the head unit. I noticed mine doing this when I coded the telephone module in my own car. Suspect it can be coded out on your current head unit. Edit It's the GAL setting on your radio. You can change it via the hu http://www.bmwsections.com/info/radio-settings.php In my experience when modifying my tuner for RCA output the factory tuners and cd player has a very average balanced output stage. This is the main source of the loss of clarity. taking the feeds straight after the opamps yields better results but needs a LOC to drop the DC from the signal.

Another angle / way to tackle. iPad mini or Samsung nexus tablet as head unit is another way to go as a head unit. Connected to an aptx Bluetooth streamer and stream to some of the newer Bluetooth Amps. Speaker wise check out sonic or woofersetc on eBay for end of line models. Great way to pick quality sounds for a mid price. If you have a ski hatch rear seat look at firing a subwoofer though it. You don't need too much power for quality bass.

Lol , I think an e46 m3 would have been Evo 2 money back then if you could find one. These days if you spend $25-$35k you getting s lot more choice with the e46 than the e30. I guess the choice now would be for the dollars e30 M3 verse e60 M5

That's good news. Did they come up with a crossover or a capacitor built into the tweeter wire ?

The guy is on many forums so it's a matter of contacting him. I suspect he doesn't have a web site to avoid legal issues with BMW. Unlike many of the BMW connectors the amplifier connector is " BMW exclusive use" from the OEM supplier. Hence why you don't see aftermarket speaker wiring adapters. http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/car-audio-classifieds/89574-bmw-1-3-series-hifi-system-harness.html

This is going to be one of those fail threads .............. http://youtu.be/qHLh6B1poLM

A few weeks on . Battery wasn't holding charge so replaced with a BMW AGM type battery. System was shutting down due to low voltage. Was good to confirm that the BM53 tuner will drop the remote on signal on low voltage before the car operation is effected. Added a small amount of time alignment to drives door speaker which has resulted in the sound image being centred to the drivers seating position. Also changed the midbass low pass filter to 55hz (bit low for 13cm midbass) but the bass now integrates better with sub. Could be better , but don't want to cut holes in door behind mid bass driver. Car DSP basic configuration Still to do. Fabricate mouse mounting for CarPC Fabricate DSP remote control holder Sort out iphone 6 mount (bit wide for the Nokia eject box modded for iphone 5s earlier in build thread) Mount bluray player in glasses compartment (sitting loose) Sort out why Mic for ULF not working. Iphone / Carpc display switch for Boardmonitor Reinstall boot lining over factory nav rack. More software mapping of ibus car control buttons to carpc functions.

Also checkout Technic harnesses if going after market amp. Allows you to use the factory speaker harness at the amplifier end. Don't forget to power the rear window aerial amplifier if removing the factory tuner module ( white wire)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?p=8436513?utm_source=pelican_bmwnewsletter&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=20150114 Awesome link Allan !

Some of the connectors are made by tyco. Can you post a pic ?

Try metra for the harness and faceplate. I'm not sure if the e39 amp will accept standard rca unbalanced feeds so you made need a unbalanced to balanced output adapters. Others may be able to coment. Metra harness , http://www.metraonline.com/vfg

At a recent dyno day we saw over 400hp at the hubs on one of these. Torque curve was equal to 5.7 v8 from 1500 rpm . Quite a bit more than the broucher !