Neal

Cheers Paul. It's taken me a long time. it's been hard to get time on weekends to work on it. Will be interested when you start your audio install.

TJ if you do end up rebuilding the bottom end of your current engine then it's in good hands with Taylor. They are well known in the motorsport arena for being one of the top in the country. They've done a fantastic job on the bottom end of my turbo mini block.

Not to mention shells exit from the NZ market It's the recommended oil for Ducati as well but you can't get the good stuff here. Will be interesting to see what BMW NZ will do.

Matter of time for this kind of thing. Have model railway stuff from the 60's and 70's from childhood and found some of it commands silly money by collectors. store it for another 20 years and make sure you keep the boxes

Started work on mounting the 3sixty.1 electronic crossover and source selector. One the base tune is done the unit can be controlled and configured via Bluetooth on the netbook. The factory amp has been removed and the space will be taken by the 3sixty. The Amp was also acted as a brace for the equipment rack so a bracket was modified to take it's place. The old Japan Telephone module bracket looked about the right size. The bracket was trimmed down, rivnuts added and sixty was mounted at roughly 45 degrees to allow room for audio interconnects. The angle here was important so that the interconnects can fit without obstructing the boot corner tray that the amps will be mounted on

I think you could be right. I modelled the mid bass and looked best between 2 - 2.5 litres if put in an enclosure. I'm just loathed to cut the inner doors on the M3 and suspect the total area of the door will be too large. Will check with RTA later on but with 130mm drivers it's hard to get punchy lower mid bass. I connected up a home hifi amp and ran the speakers up and compared the fronts to the backs. Wasn't a huge difference but the mid bass did sound better at the back where it has the whole boot to vent into. However , been a while since I'd heard PPi's and they are sounding good and a substantial setup from factory 10 speaker hifi.

What's the issue with the current unit ? If it's a 2001 you should be able to change the language to English and the Tuner to Oceania and remove the band expander. http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/6327-how-to-reprogram-jap-bmw-radio-to-nz-frequencies/ For BT stick with the Board and get a Dension BT lite gateway. It connects in line with your CD stacker and gives usb , 3.5mm and BT streaming. streaming. Comes with Mic so will also do hands free with control via Boardmonitor. http://www.dension.com/product/gateway-lite-bt-gbl3xxx Needs to be ordered with optional CD stacker retention kit.

Did any gtr's make it to NZ ? Saw a couple in the uk but they were track cars .

Used wds to confirm what your tapping into. ibus is always live as well. Tap into this about 8 or 9 module that control various car functions will play up. Also uses yellow as one of its colour identities Cig lighter is a good source as is glove box torch if your after medium & low current sources.

Some tyre companies will offer this when selling tyres. The wife's e36 328's dunlops had this thrown in.

My 2002 e46 has the same setup and uses infra red rather than the 433 MHz wireless diamond keys. Check out the video and all should work. Note the three remote presses stage to sync the car / remote http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/46255-e46-remote-not-working/?p=501828

Another extreme is go the full hog on Craig Davies products. Modify the factory water pump(s) by taking impeller out. Fit thermostat bypasses.Go electric and pick a pump with adjustable flow (e.g water to slow = over heating , water too fast means radiator has too little time to transfer heat out of water= overheating, just right means maximum cooling for a given temperature setting) http://www.daviescraig.com.au/Electric_Water_Pumps-content.aspx Add a controller for fine temp control of water with pump speed regulation. http://www.daviescraig.com.au/Controller_and_Switches-content.aspx Add a push / pull arrangement with two electric fans or run viscous plus electric Add a turbo timer or ignition off delay timer into the cooling circuit to cool engine after switch off for a predetermined time ( e.g 6-10 minutes) This should get the heat down and protect the battery from going flat from the cooling circuit. have been thinking of this type of setup for my turbo mini.

I'd buy one ....... A number of my work mates with under two's thought it was a good idea. Best time to subliminally get the young ones hooked on cars. Daughter has a garage full of toys for later on if I can get her interested !

Check out the net gear range . For around $200 you'll get a 10/100/1000 switch with the latest 802.11ac wireless spec. Usb sharing / dlna with vdsl2 support. It's quality stuff for the price and simple to configure . I use their brand of power line Ethernet 10/100/1000 extenders

You should be able to log in to the modem . Check the error stats and if your seeing Crc errors or fcs errors my bet would be the copper connection or the line card between the house and the exchange.

I'd be looking at the VDSL modem stats before swapping out. You maybe having line quality issues causing restarts.

Great looking car. Try some re11s as replacements via tire rack . You'll hardly ever have the traction control light come on again as with ps2's and conti's. Looks like I'll get 40,000kms out of mine including a couple of track days.

Best way is to drive them both. Both have their merits. I've owned e36s for the last 15 years and a e46 m3 for the last 3. I've become a great fan of smg and the e46 rasp. Both are an excellent drive but the e46 is more refined. If your better half is going to drive the car then they may not enjoy an smg. My wife just uses auto mod which frankly isn't the best feature of the smg and this is dispite 20 years of using sequential transmissions.

Get the smg conv e46 m3 M3_power, I'll arrange the toppings ;-)

Was looking to see if it had the original Alpine din connector or early cd stacker connection. The first would give you a .5 volt output that could be connected to your sony amp rca inputs giving a cleaner signal than connecting to speaker out. The second (if it had CD stacker din connector) could be used as an AUX input. otherwise , trace the tape head to a small PCB board. This will more than likely have a grey screen cable which contains two wires and a braid surround which will go off to the main HU board. This is where you'd tap into to give to piggy back and aux. Make sure that if going down this path you don't use full volume of phone / mp3 player otherwise damage to the electronics may occur if the signal can be 2 volts from the RCA.

Getting cheaper to replace. Often see the Mk4 on ebay uk for under $400 NZ

Had a 85 323i for about 15 years . Brought it at 74,000km and sold it at 330,000km 15 years later. Most of the items replaced where wear and tear , a few sets of rotors /pads , the odd light bulb, two water pumps (Don't use those plastic impeller ones as replacements), cam belts every 60,000 km, one inlet idle control thingie , front exhaust section (replaced with Stainless system) , one clutch & release bearing , two front wheel bearings. Car blew a head gasket at 190,000km, , long story , but happened on the way home after a routine service. Brother was a mechanic so pulled the engine down to check for any damage. Bottom end checked by engine reconditioner , comment was that bottom end was within new tolerances (Ran on Mobil 1) The rest was good. Only other issue was a spot of rust at the bottom of the A pillar. Power wise ok, low down torque was good. You can let the clutch out without foot on gas and it won't stall. Usual e30 handling . Mine had standard suspension and 14" 195/6x/14s rims. Best tyre I found in that size as the yoko 509 In all it was a good reliable car .

Picture of back ?

More sticky tyre choices at the 18 inch size if you want light wheels and grip. Was an m3 on here with 20s that looked stunning. Edit , were on cset's car ^^^^^^^

This will be my lotto project.