liyi_92 37 Report post Posted February 4, 2014 This is becoming a very exciting build. Keep up the good work! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Allanw 1072 Report post Posted February 5, 2014 I would... But I don't think it will fit your 525i, I'm afraid We'll be in the Kombi anyway... I meant have YOURS up and running... We're going to the Zoo on Friday, so I could probably give you until then. aja540i on here wants to supercharge his 540i Touring. He's coming to the zoo too Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeffbebe 1560 Report post Posted February 5, 2014 haha! I wish I could do it that fast but neither my skill or my bank balance will make that possible! Should be in by your next visit. I'd love to supercharge a 540i touring... In fact, I'd love a 540i touring. Might see you at the zoo - I live nearby and my boy's a member so we're there a lot (I mean A LOT!) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
westy 614 Report post Posted February 5, 2014 Yay boost! 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BM WORLD 1286 Report post Posted February 5, 2014 very cool ., do you need the aux air pump at all ??? check with gavin , can prob ditch it Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeffbebe 1560 Report post Posted February 5, 2014 Already ditched it... So I hope I don't need it!! Pretty certain it does nothing except heat the cats for emissions testing and get in the way of supercharger installs. I've removed the rear cats anyway but will check with Gavin anyway. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dubman 39 Report post Posted February 5, 2014 good stuff Julian! Call your certifier and check if you need to re-install Cats. From memory, they will be required if originally fitted to vehicle, or vehicle's post 1990(?). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
yng_750 247 Report post Posted February 5, 2014 If so you can buy good looking fake cats for less than new ones and no power drop Sent from my GT-I8160L using Tapatalk 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeffbebe 1560 Report post Posted February 5, 2014 It has 4 cats, I only removed two and the resonators I replaced the cats with could easily pass for high flow cats - don't think that'll be an issue for the certifier. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeffbebe 1560 Report post Posted February 7, 2014 Busy couple of days... Was planning to fit new pads and rotors so took advantage of my mechanic's hoists being clear on Waitangi and whipped off the calipers last thing Wednesday so I could clean them up and gave them a lick of paint (weirdly the previous owner had part painted one caliper red - which riled my OCD) while the car was resting on the hoist for the holiday. Note to self: Remember to charge drill prior to starting clean calipers. Spent a long time trying to clean the calipers by hand with help from Martin (breakmywindow) which was a massive PITA. Discovered that the drill with a wire brush fitting made short work of it and got them looking sparkling once the battery had charged. Gave them a quick wipe with some acetone to get rid of any dust, etc, masked the pistons and rubber poots and blocked the brake line plugs (rather than draining as I was a bit low on spare brake fluid). Clear coated them to make the calipers easier to clean in the future. Was all going well until the sh*t cool humid weather prevented the clear coat curing in time (was on a deadline because my mechanic wanted his hoist back first thing on Friday). Had to bake in the oven on low heat to stop the brake fluid going everywhere for a couple of hours... (the wife's in Q'town luckily). Anyway, all looks good though think I should have done something about the new red pads - they look a bit chintzy. Also got new rotors fitted at the same time so I should be able to stop when the sc goes in. Also installed a knock off DICE type thingy. Works fine, although haven't worked out how to control playlists and shuffle properly from the monitor - you can flick through tracks from the steering wheel. Had to wire it in the boot as the 17 pin connector it uses is on the radio module, inconveniently placed behind the rear seat back panel in the boot (took me a while to figure that out). Currently got the iPod where the CD changer was but will probably run the wire under the back seat and up into the centre console at some point. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mr2low 57 Report post Posted February 7, 2014 Don't want to be a pain in the arse but your OCD will thank me paint the hats on your rotors before they start rusting. Where did you get your knock off dice from was thinking about getting the anycar link Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeffbebe 1560 Report post Posted February 7, 2014 Don't want to be a pain in the arse but your OCD will thank me paint the hats on your rotors before they start rusting. Where did you get your knock off dice from was thinking about getting the anycar link I did... Painted them light grey so as not to stand out too much. Got it off eBay - got a good deal because I bought a Mazda one for our other car at the same time. Think it was about NZ$120 for both and shipping was free (from China). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mr2low 57 Report post Posted February 7, 2014 Cheers , lol can't even tell it's been painted so yes very subtle Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeffbebe 1560 Report post Posted February 10, 2014 Had a day off so did some cosmetic stuff. Repainted the bumper and door trim (thanks to Martin for the 'Forever Black') and did one of the cheapest but most effective interior upgrades so far. Picked up an old beige sliding arm rest with flip lid and coin tray (mine came with the sliding arm rest and coin tray where the phone would go but no flip lid). I'd previously bought a leather arm rest cover from Top Gaiters along with my brake boot and gear stick gaiter. Nice and cheap, think it worked out around $50 for the lot - black with dark red stitch to match the trim. Removed the arm rest pad from the sliding mechanism and coated with urethane glue. I then dampened the suede side of the new leather with a wet cloth and stretched it over the glued surface. Once I'd stretched it as tight as I could I taped it up with painter's tape to hold it for 3-4 hours while the urethane hardened. Took all the tape off and reassembled on the sliding mechanism (the back plate and handle help hold the leather in place around the edges). It looks a little wrinkled still but as it dries out it should tighten up before the glue fully cures. Installed in the car... Pretty happy with it for $50 in leather and $30 in paint for the trim! 4 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tristan 338 Report post Posted February 10, 2014 Looks great Jooles! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jake1829 119 Report post Posted February 13, 2014 Nice work with the leather! WRU pics of the SC install Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeffbebe 1560 Report post Posted February 13, 2014 Few bits and pieces to sort out before the SC can go in, Suresh, but will keep this updated. Hoping it'll be done by the end of March. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jake1829 119 Report post Posted February 13, 2014 Few bits and pieces to sort out before the SC can go in, Suresh, but will keep this updated. Hoping it'll be done by the end of March. ahh nice, really looking forward to seeing that! which bits are you looking at doing LSD & ?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeffbebe 1560 Report post Posted February 13, 2014 LSD - yes, but don't have the cash at the moment unless I can make a E32 diff fit or something like that, so will probably drive it with the open diff for a while until I can afford the conversion. The guy I bought the sc from said he drove his for a year with open diff and it was fine - just felt a bit sketchy on the track. Have to fit drive shaft safety loops for a cert which I now have but haven't found the time or the mustard to pull out the interior and try and fit the f*cking things. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BreakMyWindow 1878 Report post Posted February 13, 2014 Rules are rules, but in the E39's case I don't quite see how the main drive shaft would get passed the exhaust system... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Michael. 2313 Report post Posted February 13, 2014 MMMM that E39 tire well is dying to be cut out in an M5 like way ready for a true dual exhaust of some design. Do it Joooles! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeffbebe 1560 Report post Posted February 13, 2014 I'd feel like a fraud if it looks like a pretend M5. If you fancy cutting up the wheel well and giving me one of your exhaust set ups I'd consider it though!! haha 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeffbebe 1560 Report post Posted February 23, 2014 (edited) Had planned to install the supercharger on the last weekend in March. Unfortunately, Hi Velocity's dyno will be out of action as it's being moved, so I've had to put the project on hold until they're open for business again. Looks like it'll be in for winter. EDIT: Got some other bits and pieces to do in the meantime: Headlight adjusters before Warrant in 2 weeks Upgrade tail lights to facelift LED tails - I'm aware I'm cutting to have to do a bit of drilling in the bodywork to fit them but have read that some of the later LCMs can be recoded to operate as voltage regulators to avoid the need of splicing in capacitors. If anyone's got any experience of this it would be a massive help. Picked up a very sexy E46 steering wheel from Ray, going to refurb the leather. Edited February 23, 2014 by jeffbebe Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Allanw 1072 Report post Posted February 23, 2014 I haven't coded the LCM for LEDS, but I thought it was only LCM3B anmd up that did it... however, my old LCM is an LCM3A (I can check that) and I have factory rear Celis. TIf you need to change the LCM, you need BMW scanner to change the milage and VIN in the LCM, and it will need to be coded to you car, then have the LED settings altered to suit. I'm sure I could do it, but I'm not any colsser to you than last time :-) Plus, I'm a little wary, and I haven't done it before - I suppose you could unplug the Cleis lights until we're sure the settings are correct :-) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeffbebe 1560 Report post Posted February 23, 2014 Thanks Allan. Do your tail lights require separate voltage regulators (usually installed in the spare wheel well)? Not sure which LCM I have but presumably not 3B if yours has 3A and is newer than mine. Don't want to switch LCM because of issues with tamper dot, etc so if LCM can't be coded to regulate voltage will probably code out the check tail light error and splice capacitors if the LEDs flicker. Josh (hybrid) is pretty handy with re-coding, etc and is local but thanks for the offer! Much appreciated. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
