LemonHunter 583 Report post Posted September 4, 2016 3 hours ago, Olaf said: definitely. if there's water damage on the bores, your rings will also be damaged. Hell, if you've got it apart, rings and bearings, surely? And ensure the bottom end (mains, crankshaft end float), are all within spec. False economy to put it back together with anything less than it needs, IMHO. +1 to this. even if your doing all the work yourself, price your labor, the time/effort/expense of doing a rebuild at this point is about the same as taking it out in 6 months if one of the above things fails (and then you'll have to spend the money anyway or roll the dice on another engine), it may have been running mint N/A, but as soon as you strap a hair drier to it what was an acceptable amount of bearing play for an N/A may cause some dramas. it will give you peace of mind and add resale value if you ever move it on. I once chose not to do this, and the excitement of getting it on the road 3 days earlier and $500 cheaper dissolved in short order... At the very least visually inspect and check all the tolerances anyway, maybe they are within spec... 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Olaf 3321 Report post Posted September 4, 2016 well said, Charlie. Toby, false economy saving $$ on your short block, esp given your intended application. I really liked Charlie's words about having to take it out again in 6 months (or less)... 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kepes 231 Report post Posted September 5, 2016 (edited) Thanks guys, really appreciate it! I am far from experienced in this field but trying to learn as much as I can so the feedback is very helpful I removed the pistons today. Never done such a thing so it was really interesting to see everything in the block and get an understanding for what they do and where they are. I will take the block to be re honed and talk to the guy at the shop about bearings. I'll probably get him to do it for me as I don't really know how to measure the clearances and decide if I need oversized bearings etc... I need to start a project thread stat! Thanks again Edited September 5, 2016 by Kepes Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gjm 3258 Report post Posted September 20, 2016 Do the rear seats in an E46 coupe fold down for through-loading from the boot, or even just for more load space? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nick496 268 Report post Posted September 20, 2016 2 hours ago, gjm said: Do the rear seats in an E46 coupe fold down for through-loading from the boot, or even just for more load space? Can't speak for the coupe. But it appears to be an option on the Sedans. Mate had a 318i that didn't have fold down rear seats. My 328i does fold down. (Both PFL) Would imagine the same would go for the coupe? 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
aja540i 1906 Report post Posted September 20, 2016 On Monday, September 05, 2016 at 4:30 PM, Kepes said: Thanks guys, really appreciate it! I am far from experienced in this field but trying to learn as much as I can so the feedback is very helpful I removed the pistons today. Never done such a thing so it was really interesting to see everything in the block and get an understanding for what they do and where they are. I will take the block to be re honed and talk to the guy at the shop about bearings. I'll probably get him to do it for me as I don't really know how to measure the clearances and decide if I need oversized bearings etc... I need to start a project thread stat! Thanks again If you are getting the block honed you may end up having to go oversize pistons, which will mean new rings anyway, but It Is always a good Idea to replace wear Items whenever a motor Is apart. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gjm 3258 Report post Posted September 20, 2016 4 hours ago, gjm said: Do the rear seats in an E46 coupe fold down for through-loading from the boot, or even just for more load space? 1 hour ago, nick496 said: Can't speak for the coupe. But it appears to be an option on the Sedans. Mate had a 318i that didn't have fold down rear seats. My 328i does fold down. (Both PFL) Would imagine the same would go for the coupe? Sounds like it's an option and something to look and check for, rather than expect. Thanks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M3AN 4016 Report post Posted September 30, 2016 Do I need to block off the trans cooler holes (or do anything else with them) if I'm using a separate cooler for the transmission? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
aja540i 1906 Report post Posted September 30, 2016 3 minutes ago, M3AN said: Do I need to blockn off the trans cooler holes (or do anything else with them) if I'm using a separate cooler for the transmission? I would cap them just to stop crap getting In there In case you need to use It one day. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M3AN 4016 Report post Posted September 30, 2016 ^ Hoped so, thanks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LemonHunter 583 Report post Posted October 3, 2016 Need a new remote key for the E36, only have the spare without remote buttons, seen prices for $300 for ' keys programmed' but in theory should be able to buy one for a 10th of that and use the guide to program it? I'm not sure what frequency it will be though, south african assembled, so 415mhz? Any leads to good places to source? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M3AN 4016 Report post Posted October 3, 2016 3 hours ago, EURO V8 said: Need a new remote key for the E36, only have the spare without remote buttons, seen prices for $300 for ' keys programmed' but in theory should be able to buy one for a 10th of that and use the guide to program it? I'm not sure what frequency it will be though, south african assembled, so 415mhz? Any leads to good places to source? That might open the doors but I don't think it will work with the EWS immobiliser? Could be wrong but pretty sure the SA models also used EWS with a transponder in the key - that's the bit you'll need to code and it requires a special rig. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LemonHunter 583 Report post Posted October 6, 2016 For my E36 318, M44B19, the Fuel door says use 91 only, i'm a believer in the powers of 98, or at least 96 as when I drive, i tend to push things, should I listen to the fuel flap sticker? or follow my heart? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gjm 3258 Report post Posted October 6, 2016 2 minutes ago, EURO V8 said: For my E36 318, M44B19, the Fuel door says use 91 only, i'm a believer in the powers of 98, or at least 96 as when I drive, i tend to push things, should I listen to the fuel flap sticker? or follow my heart? We'll run 95 in Miss M's 318i M43 whenever possible. It doesn't seem to like 98 much, and feels happier on 95 than on 91. (It actually seems happier on 91 than 98 - just a seat of the pants assessment.) I can't think of a situation where 95 will hurt your car, and can think of many where it might help. That said, I have read of people 'optimising DME' for running on 95. If your car is genuinely designed to run on 91 (and doesn't have adaptive EMS), there shouldn't be any benefit to running 95 or 98. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M3AN 4016 Report post Posted October 6, 2016 98 will be a waste but 95 is leagues better than 91. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LemonHunter 583 Report post Posted October 13, 2016 Are these real or reps? I've never seen them with the hub pretty much flush to the rim Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LemonHunter 583 Report post Posted October 22, 2016 So I'm half way through replacing the Gearbox in the E36, been easy so far as when the last mechanic did it they were kind enough to leave the two hardest to reach bolts out... yeah... anyway. the clutch looks pretty new to me, I'm thinking rather than open up a can of worms I might be better just to leave it installed, because I doubt the flywheel was machined, unless they replaced the flywheel, it does seem in surprisingly good nick for a car this old. can I get a second opinion? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2425 Report post Posted October 22, 2016 Have you taken the pressure plate off and actually inspected the disk and flywheel? Thats really about the only way to check anything. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LemonHunter 583 Report post Posted October 22, 2016 No, I guess that's the morning job, I have a new kit for it, but I really want to be able to take it out this weekend so I don't want to have to machine the flywheel haha. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zero 1162 Report post Posted October 22, 2016 (edited) Change it would be my vote. And change the rear main seal while you are in there. Edited October 22, 2016 by zero Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LemonHunter 583 Report post Posted October 22, 2016 1 hour ago, zero said: Change it would be my vote. And change the rear main seal while you are in there. Which rear seal? Looking at it the flywheel is new (maybe during last clutch change) but the clutch was maybe half worn. no leaks are perceptible in the lower areas behind the engine Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LemonHunter 583 Report post Posted October 23, 2016 Box and clutch swapped, with the windows down I noticed new box has a high pitched wine like a dog box... it had the ATF recommended sticker so I used Penrite full synthetic, 1.1L. Shifting feels smooth though, probably helps that i replaced every bush and bearing in the shift linkage. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gjm 3258 Report post Posted October 23, 2016 Adjustable suspension requires a cert... Is this just for height adjustable suspension, or does it also include suspension where the height cannot be adjusted, but the rebound (for example) can? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
huff3r 347 Report post Posted October 23, 2016 13 minutes ago, gjm said: Adjustable suspension requires a cert... Is this just for height adjustable suspension, or does it also include suspension where the height cannot be adjusted, but the rebound (for example) can? From http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/suplementary_information/LVVTA_LVV_Cert_Threshold.pdf Not requiring cert: 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gjm 3258 Report post Posted October 23, 2016 11 minutes ago, huff3r said: From http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/suplementary_information/LVVTA_LVV_Cert_Threshold.pdf Not requiring cert: Ta. So long as they retain stock mounting points, and cannot be used to alter ride height: no cert required. Excellent. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
