antil33t 90 Report post Posted October 20, 2012 Flex Disc + Center Support Bearing? Driveshaft incorrectly re-joined (has dots to match up) warped brake rotors if it's a steering shake... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
liyi_92 37 Report post Posted October 24, 2012 Do most mechanics or workshops offer injector cleaning? I mean cleaning as in taking them out individually and cleaning them. Or would only specific places do them. Thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DoorMan 0 Report post Posted October 24, 2012 Hi guys. Wondering if anyone would know why I have a slight shudder at the rear end when i take my foot of the gas and begin to decelerate. It's a E36 325i with the m50 motor. Also whenever I turn a sharpish right at a reasonable speed (eg 80k's) the left rear will shudder/feel like it's starting to bounce around on the road.. Could these 2 issues be related? Or could it be a suspension issue. I haven't had the car up on a hoist to check yet. Oh yeah, it has 17" BBS wheels, and it doesn't have hubcentric rings, could this be the cause of the 2 issues? Maybe a wheel alignment issue?? Any help much appreciated. Cheers, Dan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
antil33t 90 Report post Posted October 24, 2012 I would get the hub-centric rings before spending any other money.. infact I dunno if I'd be comfortable driving the car without them... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mark 178 Report post Posted October 24, 2012 Hi guys. Wondering if anyone would know why I have a slight shudder at the rear end when i take my foot of the gas and begin to decelerate. It's a E36 325i with the m50 motor. Also whenever I turn a sharpish right at a reasonable speed (eg 80k's) the left rear will shudder/feel like it's starting to bounce around on the road.. Could these 2 issues be related? Or could it be a suspension issue. I haven't had the car up on a hoist to check yet. Oh yeah, it has 17" BBS wheels, and it doesn't have hubcentric rings, could this be the cause of the 2 issues? Take a look at your rear shock mounts. Also, check all suspension bushes for wear. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DoorMan 0 Report post Posted October 24, 2012 I would get the hub-centric rings before spending any other money.. infact I dunno if I'd be comfortable driving the car without them... I only just read up about them. I Didn't know that I would need them until now. I will look into this remedy. Cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
huff3r 347 Report post Posted October 24, 2012 If it's leaking from the heater matrix, you might see it dripping from the air con evaporator tray drain underneath the car Following up on this, I'm not sure where the "air con evaporator tray drain" is supposed to be, but the only signs of water underneath the car are drips off the back end of the gearbox, every other fluid leak is an oil. Would this be consistent with a leak from the heater matrix etc inside the car? Cheers, Paul Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted October 24, 2012 If it was a cooling system leak it would be the same colour of the coolant. The drain is above the rear of the gearbox Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
huff3r 347 Report post Posted October 24, 2012 If it was a cooling system leak it would be the same colour of the coolant. The drain is above the rear of the gearbox As mentioned before, I've been topping up with water due to the rate it's been going through it. I know I shouldn't, but I didn't have the time to fix it previously. Sounds like I'll be taking the dash apart then. Cheers for all your help Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted October 24, 2012 (edited) E30 matrix comes out of the L/H side of the heater box.. you don't need to pull the dash out Give me a call (09) 2722546 Edited October 24, 2012 by *Glenn* Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
huff3r 347 Report post Posted October 24, 2012 E30 matrix comes out of the L/H side of the heater box.. you don't need to pull the dash out Give me a call (09) 2722546 Thanks, I have the Haynes for it, so should manage. But no doubt I'll be putting it off for a few weeks until it's got a WoF, as if it fails it may become scrap. I'll give you a call if I get stuck / closer to the time . Cheers. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
antil33t 90 Report post Posted October 27, 2012 Heater isn't hard... been there done that. Wasn't the heatercore on mine, it was the valve that opens the flow + o-rings, replaced them all.. cost like $50 all up.. inc the part from Ray. o-rings get from a good shop, or the dealer. (I got them from dealer) but if you get correct ones from a hydraulics shop or something should be just as good if not better. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DoorMan 0 Report post Posted October 27, 2012 (edited) Hey guys, More friendly advice needed for my 1994 E36 325i Jappy Import My boot won't lock/unlock from the central locking, and also the left number plate light doesn't work. I've replaced the bulb, still nothing, and I don't want to just splice the wires from the other number plate wires because It will still show the fault on the OBC right? I've had a look at the wiring from the actuator of the boot lock, and the number plate light and i've traced it all the way till it goes in under the rear seat, and I can't see any breaks in the wires. Oh, and i've checked the fuses too. Before I go and buy a new actuator for the boot lock, is this a common fault and is there a relation between the 2 faults? Any help much appreciated. Cheers, Dan Edit: Found the issue. Peeled back the cover surrounding the loom from the boot to the rear panel and what do you know... Broken wires. Edited October 28, 2012 by DoorMan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
antil33t 90 Report post Posted October 29, 2012 everybody loves wiring faults! at least yours haven't had half-arsed attempts at repairs... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
euroriffic 612 Report post Posted October 29, 2012 Had the same issue with the sedan and the tourings boot unlocks & locks off main door but won't unlock or lock the hole car from the boot with the key. Might fix it one day... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
qube 3570 Report post Posted November 12, 2012 driving around and stopping all afternoon and evening, on the motorway for a good 30ish kms back home.. get on the offramp, slowed down to a stop at roundabout, then accelerated slowly, car felt like it skipped a gear or lurched backwards? in 1st gear (auto gearbox).. not really sure how to explain, basically tried revving in neutral, engine seems fine.. stopped the car, accelerated hard(ish) and gear shifted okay, drove around 30kph then took foot off the pedal and as revs dropped felt the same thing happen. i guess when i accelerated slowly, the revs went up to about 1500 then dropped slightly and back up slowly. felt like i was losing power kind of but then it was kind of okay again.. i know this is a rubbish description but im sleepy as and i just wanted to get home.. any ideas? thanks.. e36 1997 318ti automatic Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BM WORLD 1284 Report post Posted November 12, 2012 driving around and stopping all afternoon and evening, on the motorway for a good 30ish kms back home.. get on the offramp, slowed down to a stop at roundabout, then accelerated slowly, car felt like it skipped a gear or lurched backwards? in 1st gear (auto gearbox).. not really sure how to explain, basically tried revving in neutral, engine seems fine.. stopped the car, accelerated hard(ish) and gear shifted okay, drove around 30kph then took foot off the pedal and as revs dropped felt the same thing happen. i guess when i accelerated slowly, the revs went up to about 1500 then dropped slightly and back up slowly. felt like i was losing power kind of but then it was kind of okay again.. i know this is a rubbish description but im sleepy as and i just wanted to get home.. any ideas? thanks.. e36 1997 318ti automatic mayeb trans oil fluid level low or filter block , trans fuild really old.has it ever be serviced or changed etc?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
qube 3570 Report post Posted November 12, 2012 Not the I know of. Highly doubt it's been done. Is it okay to drive for a few days? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
E30nut 1 Report post Posted November 14, 2012 Hey ive got a 1990 E30 318i (M40B18) (auto), just wanted to get confirmation from someone on here, in regards to whether Dexron II is the right transmission fluid to use, because i'm unsure. Cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
antil33t 90 Report post Posted November 15, 2012 Probably can't even get DX2 anymore lol... Just any DX3 will probably be fine. I used Elfmatic G3 in my M20 powered E30's auto. But really just any good brand I'd say. You'll need like 8L if you want to drain the torque convertor. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DoorMan 0 Report post Posted November 19, 2012 I've had to pull the radiator out of my E36 a couple of times recently, and after each time, once i've topped everything back up again, there is a squeal for a while. Now, I don't know if the waterpump has been replaced or not, but could it be on it's way out? Or could the squeal be caused from the small amounts of anti-freeze getting onto the belts? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eagle 1669 Report post Posted November 19, 2012 Sounds like water on the belt to me assuming it only happens once Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted November 19, 2012 This VVVVVV Or could the squeal be caused from the small amounts of anti-freeze getting onto the belts? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shaneg 0 Report post Posted November 19, 2012 what belt/pulley is on the bottom right on the m62tub44? when looking from the front and underneath the car. mine just started squealing this morning.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DoorMan 0 Report post Posted November 19, 2012 Sounds like water on the belt to me assuming it only happens once It will do it for about 20 or so minutes until the car gets warm. Once the car is out of the panel beaters i'm going to replace the waterpump just to be safe. Would rather spend $100 on a waterpump then $1000 on a new engine.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
