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Sold. -
re-read the whole thread. it seems like a crazy thing to change everything over to the touring when you've already done so much to the coupe! but it is your decision and if the coupe is up for sale...
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I'm currently looking for E30 coupe or a wagon as a long term project - but no rush, as I have other priorities for now. I'll PM contact details
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ohh exciting! what's next on the list? and yes please, would love to meetup/ discuss these quirky rust-nugs!
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The render does look a lot better, partly because of the different angle of the shot, and no lighting effects. Also the render is the M340i/d version with the different front grille, lower front apron and lower ride height - all of which will alter the view of the car. Bottom photo is an M-Sport version, verus the M Performance in the render. If you're not convinced on this grille design, you are in for some treats next year!
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If you want a $10k reliable car, then that would rule out the Subaru Legacy - when you get down to that price level on those they are entering the "captain, she's gonna blow" period of their life when something has either just popped and the owner wants rid, or owner is scared it's about to pop. Great cars, great fun, especially the 4wd twin turbos, incredibly versatile wagons, but when they start to go.. wholly hecka.
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Can you get any more Bavarian (Bayerische) than this photo...?
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I have a rear only strut brace
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these RK's are specifically designed for the E39 but do fit E36/E46 with stretched and low profile tyres with camber. 215/35 is probably the only tyre that would make it work on the E36. on the E46 you could probably go a tad wider but 225/35/18 isnt a common size like 225/40 or 215/35.
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happy with the discussions this topic is bringing but an EV/Hybrid is out of the question. just personal preference (of the buyer) and also a bit of fear that hybrids are more expensive to fix if and when it goes wrong as opposed to a common run of the mill production car like a civic accord corolla etc. If it was me I would be all over something like an E46 318i as graham suggested but we are looking for something a bit newer that does not need any work like sagging headliners, falling interiors, also the myriad of random electrical and annoying little problems that you get with a car around 2000 now. I think it can all be avoided by going for something thats around 10 years old and around 100-150kms. remember the budget is 10k not 5k, and we want the best and no-hassle car for 10k not a 5k+5k maintenance and fix it up nice situation.
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probably will be a 10 disc unit , have some whats the head deck and plugs , got pics ?
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Get a 2000/2001 E46 318i (M43 engine). There are some very good, low mileage ones around that have been used, just not too extensively. Economical, simple, reliable (get someone to check/sort the cooling system pipes and thermostat) - look after it and it's good for 300k++. In bold - sad but true. Most people see a new-ish, low mileage car as a good buy. That's the only reason there are s many Tiidas and similar on the roads - and there's a reason they're shipping out of Japan by the ship load at just 12 months old. They're not serviced, they're not looked after. This is (imho) excellent advice. At the very least, look into it, consider it. Try one. Leafs aren't the only option, of course. And yes- there are battery replacement costs to consider, but (and Andrew can do the math) it doesn't work out to be expensive over the use and time period that'll be needed, especially when taking servicing and running costs of an ICE car into account. I'll have a 20-30km each way trip for work soon, and this really starts to make a lot of sense in that scenario.
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You're right about that. Genuine M-sport 325i coupes continue to rise in value, best to preserve that with sympathetic mods. Looks like a beaut, great score! Question is, are you bringing it to e30 Mega Meet in New Plymouth (this year) 29 November - 1 December? There'll be others from the deep south attending. It's going to be a blast. Welcome!
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The simple reality is that even a worn out Leaf has fewer maintenance requirements than even the most reliable ICE car. When I say worn out I am purely referring to battery state of health, which is much easier to check than internal combustion engine state of health! Your $8k Corolla over 200,000 km will require possibly 20 oil changes, that's 20 more than a Leaf, plus spark plugs, coils, a starter motor and/or alternator, fuel and air filters etc, none of which a Leaf has. Real world range is a separate issue and one that each potential owner needs to research and compare with their requirements, mine is about 120km, slightly less if the a/c is on, which is perfect for the driving I do. The headlights don't affect the range in an EV any more than they do in an ICE car! I also think it's a bit .laughable to assume the government won't tax petrol further, or that the cost won't continue to rise for other reasons. I am not sitting on my high horse saying everyone should drive an EV , I don't believe that, but people who are in the market that they are who just dismiss them without a thought are missing an opportunity.
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Your statement kind of contradicts itself. there are some worn out Leafs for $10k but you won’t find a more reliable car at that price... So is it safe to just any Leaf and no dramas? I’d be interested in seeing how a Leaf will go long term. See my intentions of running our $8k Corolla for another ten years and 200,000km, with what I think will be minimal R&M. How do you think a 7 year old Leaf will fare with the same expectation? Are there any high mileage examples getting around with service and repair history? What is your real world range from your Leaf, and does driving with the heater/air con on, and head lights significantly reduce range? I watch from from a distance how the govt tackles EV RUC. I think it was once NZs electric vehicle fleet reaches 2% that they will be subject to RUC. Providing the Govt don’t tax petrol cars further, the appeal of EV from a cost and convenience point won’t be as high as what it is now.
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Sorted out an oil catch can. It's just a cheap unit from ebay which I stuffed with iron wool. I made a bracket, and mounted it under the intake manifold. Installing the driveshaft hoops was the next task. Marking and drilling holes from inside the tunnel turned out to be far more difficult than I anticipated. But I got there in the end. I also had to replace the crank position sense as it had died somehow while sitting. Things are slowing coming together. Intake on. M20 coolant overflow tank mounted. First time out of the garage under it's own power. Front end back on.
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Looks good. Can you fit anything wider than the 215 on the rear or will it rub?
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While not shown in earlier posts, I did also swap the E36 steering rack and Audi brake booster from the coupe. Engine bay ready to receive the M52 Engine ready to go And just like that, it's in. I slightly slotted the booster holes in the firewall to move the booster down and away from the engine. The intake to booster clearance is tight, but better than it was in the coupe. Now I'm almost back to the point I was at with the coupe.
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Time to get the touring back in the garage. I decided to investigate rust situation a little further, this is what I found. Not looking so great. I decided to remove the worst of it, and then hit it with some rust kill paint in an attempt to mitigate damage until I can have it repaired. I forgot to take photos of most of this, but I did get a photo of the battery tray. Painted black I'm happy with the result.
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With the touring tucked away awaiting it's new engine, it's time for the coupe to go under the knife. M52 out Mission success. Now to insert the mighty M40B18. All buttoned up. Almost ready to be road legal again.
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Once I had moved, I was given access to a spot in an insulated garage. This enabled me to work on things in the evenings after work. Some good progress was made. Picked up an engine crane Lid off Disconnecting all the things Out she comes
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For a couple months, I didn't get much done as I was moving house. However, some shiny silver rings found there way into my gauge cluster, along a new set of plastic odometer gears, and a couple of fresh lithium cells for the SI board. I also scored a set of 16" Style 5 Wheels for dirt cheap. These may come in handy at some point...
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Well, I certainly haven't done a great job of posting regular updates... better late than never, I guess. Late one cold evening in June, a humble little white car rolls into a parking spot. I had finally made it back home after 2 days of driving from Auckland to Christchurch. (Sorry for the potato camera) The car was an NZ new 1992 318i in manual. It ran well enough to get me back, but it certainly had a few issues. A few days later, a new set of rims arrived. They were wrapped in some fresh rubber, and hastily fitted on. TRM C1 15x8 ET20 Wheels with 205/55 RE003s Tyres. This was basically the point when I committed to moving the drivetrain and suspension from the Coupe into the Touring. It was going to take a bit of effort, but I honestly couldn't wait to get started. The first thing I decided to tackle was swapping the suspension between the cars. During this process, we realised the fact that new wheels didn't clear the front struts. It seems the coilover sleeves were welded higher on the strut tube than the manufacturer intended (to comply with cert rules). This means the lower adjustment nut sits right where the inner edge of the rim wants to be. I was running out of daylight, so for now, the factory bottle caps will go back on. The new wheels ended up on the Coupe.
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Seriously, you won't get a more reliable 10k car now than a Leaf, be wary there are some worn out ones in that price range, but some good ones as well. An EV might not suit the driving they are doing but they would be missing an opportunity if they don't at least consider it.
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New Member. 2007 335i M Sport E92
Davindawn replied to Davindawn's topic in New Member Introductions
Thanks guys! Haha yeah probably aye Tij. I'm trying to resist the urge to start buying parts already I think I'm gonna try save up and slowly buy all the parts I want, but just keep them in the garage. Then spend a couple of weekends and install everything in one go, rather than trying to work around the cramped space several times getting inlets and downpipes etc. to fit.
