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One would hope so all to true personnal joice does play a part in what one likes in a car. The fact that it has a manual box good but the wrong one according to the parts cat sets off alarm bells for me based on my own 5 and half yrs owning a 5er. As for the k's would depend on how they were achived nice normal driving ok thrashed not so. Also any work carried out before 2012 still interesting.
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Hey yeah manual vents etc has air con in it and mine doesn't but not going there. Tow bar, auto box running gear replica schnitzer rear wing. Yeah will just save motors actuators doors glass etc. Will most likely Scrap most of it hurts cutting one up to pieces
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Sent it to Youshop USA. $20NZD max and probably even less for economy postage.
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Its clear you'd be able to get it for less than 6k Personally i don't mind the wheels at all and love manual seats, electrics are heavy and pointless unless you got multiple people using the car. Its got no sun roof also so its about as light as E39 6 cyl can get. K's dont hold much weight at this age. Guessing the 25k would be covering manual conversion, wheels, headers, coilovers etc and if you paying someone to do the work then its easy to rack bills. Someone in Auckland should go look at it
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The advantage of the Sytner one is that if you wanted to, you could keep it under BMW Warranty forever. Surprises me there isn't an NZ equivalent given there seem to be a lot of people with aftermarket warranties.
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A few details found from car jam and bmw fans. CK19560 Listed as an automatic Assembled Feb 2003 UK reg Mar 2003 NZ reg 1 June 2007 current plate gmd921 effective 4 sept 2012, MATUK up to 7/jun 2007, DZK354 up to 1/Jun 2007 The manual trans listing for it in BMW fans is a S5D 320z- THCH. Have to say the colour looks nice the wheels do nothing for me has only manual adjust seats. The exhaust , suspension and what else has been changedor about to wear out if interested proceed with caution. The five series cars took a big hit price wise and with age catching up on them even a so called rare, limited number 150 in that colour. Its sixteen yrs old covered over 300,000k about 18,750k's a yr and a bmw. As stated only a 220 fitted well below the level it should have. Wonder was the conversion done here in NZ or UK and by whom. Have to wonder also what the 25 thousand was spent on it from 2012 only 7yrs. No maybe not in the five and half yrs of owing a 530 I spent 14. Best of luck on who ever buys it
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Update. Department of Beep Beep! Some horn material, yesterday. Brought to you by the department of bad puns. A friend kindly dug these out of his parts stash. A pair of 325i Fiamm horns, one high, one low, complete with brackets. Along with a couple of connector shells, sans pins. (I must be) need a couple of nuts. And either there will be good fortune when I get underneath it and all the wiring is there to plug into, or I'll find those crazy Germans put in different looms. In which case I'll need to find the right pins for the connector shells, and make up some cabling to run from the central 'meep meep' horn to these PaaaaarrrrRRRRPPP horns. One goes on the Right side, and one on the Left (or wrong) side. Depending on your viewpoint. Wish me Luck! @adro next time we catch up I'd like to have a look around your SE to see how it's been done. Other things... Twirly thing I lucked-out, and nabbed a three-spoke leather OEM Sports Steering Wheel (aka SE wheel) from the book of faces, recently. It's pretty tidy, was just a bit faded. I've cleaned it, given it a couple of coats of black leather toner, followed by two coats of leather protectant, and a couple of coats of Elephant Leather preservative. I'll get it onto the car soon. Being fastidious, I've ordered a new locknut. 😉 Graunch in suspension. The Graunch of Suspension Wood, has been diagnosed by Jon at Auto38. Inner tie rod. I'm going for gold, and we're going to do tie rods, wishbones, lollipop bushes, and replace the steering guibo. I'll install the 20mm front bar, with new bushes & Meyle HD end links. That'll do for the next couple of months while I refurbish the Style 5 rims, and then the 51mm strut housings. This work will get it steering straight and true, and eliminate older (as in 15-20 years, probably) bushings and balljoints. Jon spanner-checked it, and it's a bit 'tighter'. The rest of it (excepting the tie rod) is all still WoF standard, though I want the front to feel as good as the rear end now does. Strut Housings Of the strut housings, thanks to @gjm & @_ethrty-Andy_ for the Bimmersport Good Bstard Express™ assistance from Nick's. I have all the parts for the strut builds, including new wheel bearings. Just need to sort springs. Sampling @adro's SE last week, I think I'll be able to live with HR Sport Springs to match with the Koni Yellows 8641-1210 Sport (front), & 80-2522 (rear). Abrasives and PPE I've ordered new filters for my 3M mask, and a bunch of abrasives to use with my Dremel and handpiece. It's going to be slow and steady prepping those buggers for paint. I've a large box to lash up a paint booth out of, and an old office chair that I plan to make a wheel spinner out of. Need to figure ensure all rims are true before I start (a precaution only), and cut the valve stems out. Questions about paint Now to source paint for the wheels. Thought about standard Wheel Paint (Felgen Silver) with clear. Nah, I'll get Granitsilber mixed up in aerosols, and clear coat. I liked the idea of Nogaro Silver, but it's darker and too close to Lachssilber. I'll pay a lunchtime visit to Union Hardware soon to source paint. Just thought, though... I have an airbrush compressor, and an airbrush I've little experience with... though it'd probably take an age to paint wheels with an airbrush, eh? Paint would be going off while I'm still painting. I'll keep it simple and go with aerosols, no clean-up. For the strut housings, I'm going to strip them down, rust preventative, etch prime, and two coats of Rustoleum gloss black. Questions - Paint: If you've thoughts or tips about painting my wheels, please let me know. 1k vs 2k, type of paint to withstand wheel heat, etc. Questions - Horns: If you know what bolt/nut, or in particular what the connector pins are for the horn connector shells, please let me know!
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aye. Mrs Ubaru feels this is worth way more than it is That leather interior isn't too late to save, it's just been badly neglected.
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+1 for schmiedmann ☝️
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Thanks for posting, I enjoyed that.
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General E34 stuff isnt worth much and doesn't normally sell. BMW generally used durable electronic parts those days and you can also repair most things without replacing. Window regs, motors and switches rarely fail themselves but guess easily enough to store. Doors and panels are always good if you got the space. All exterior lights, heater valve, fuel pump\sender, instrument cluster, LKM and CCM module (if its digital), door cards maybe is all i can think of Guessing its just got the basic manual vent control HVAC system?
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https://www.schmiedmann.com/
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Not ideal but wouldn't say its a deal breaker, seeing it in person is the only true judgement. Id usually take a look but voluntarily driving to Auckland these days is the definition of insanity.
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It's a real nice idea but a higher km UK car running a g220 isn't particularly appealing
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https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201901083728028 I suppose there is little point in the Sytner one when number 20 here is just 2k more...
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Hello all. This is mainly for the E34 owners out there. Sorry if wrong forum I wasn't sure which forum to post in. I'm wrecking a E34 89 525 Auto mainly to save a few parts for mine which is a daily. Can anyone suggest parts worth saving like switches windrow motors etc for my car for breakage and worst case in the future. And stuff worth just getting rid of or selling. Plan to post parts after its in bits if worth selling them. Sorry long question
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Hey. I'm in New Zealand too. Im curious too in any surgestions anywhere in the world. I've found Ebay is great for some parts. Mainly small stuff is worth free postage clips etc rare parts. Wether EBay or BMW parts stores around world. Anything out of USA is ludicrous shipping costs I always contact the seller company to see if will look if they can get postage cost down some will some don't. From the UK I've had better luck with fair postage and Asia. Eg I'm after a lense cover for a engine bay light on my car. Pelican parts have it but a $12 part $45 to send and they won't budge on a envelope size item. Still trying other stores. BM World is great for parts in NZ always had what I needed and fair prices.
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I think it's a very decent price and I'd love to see somebody on here pick it up and run with it...
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Im hoping its a decent price, would like to see it go to a good home. I did the steering wheel, an Ebay company that does custom cut real leather covers for about $60, you just have to do diagonal stitching, not much worse than threading new shoe laces.
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That's an awesome project for somebody, so much potential at $3k, if I needed 4 doors I'd be very tempted. GLWS. That steering wheel looks sweet, where did you get it done?
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The M850i. The only one in NZ. And my daughter has been for a drive in it.
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The correct water is $6 for 10 litres from the supermarket, no real reason not to use it IMO.
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https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-1951987246.htm?rsqid=32b8cd07f6a643b48c3bbf57f8fc203d Rare spec with a number of goodies on it. Looks a little neglected but still could be a decent buy provided it not excessively worn. Real shame that interior colour really shows up the wear, looks like leather center console also courtesy of BMW individual.
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GeeBeeF1 joined the community
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Bought as a spare engine for race car. Race car now sold. Selling price $500 What you see on pallet and ready to go.
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Obviously because I currently reside in the USA, always studying prices of these things being marketed here. I think based on the mileage, condition, and provenance it wouldn’t be unrealistic to see a vendor marketing a car like this in the USA for $40-$45k USD. If it was in a Uber rare colour combo maybe more.
