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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/02/2018 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    You get rid of the wife too Allan ??
  2. 4 points
    Thanks Allan, she's a beaut. Drove it home without doing the rocker cover- raining too much- and it didn't catch fire so I'll chalk that up as a win. The B25 makes okay power, but with the manual there's all this torque available that is completely missing in auto. Now... who knows anything about RB swaps? Also, do 22z fit? Chur!
  3. 2 points
    Think you need to change your name like Frank. https://www.nzherald.co.nz/index.cfm?objectid=12077415 (what kind of last name is that though..?)
  4. 2 points
    The shell weights are similar, but the sedan is stiffer and it carries the weight a bit further back 49% front 51% rear - This gives slightly better traction (makes the LSD possibly a moot point?) The rear weight bias allows you to carry more speed into a corner, generates less scrub and also allows you to carry the speed through the corner, it also lets you brake a bit later due to less weight transfer forward - Subtle but if you know how to capitalise on the attributes it can be highly advantageous in lower power to weight ratio vehicles. A 'poverty pack' body shell is the way to go if you are not doing a cage as it minimises the trim weight.
  5. 2 points
  6. 1 point
    Starting to to collect parts for my M52B28 rebuild which includes some OE parts--- local prices are just obscene, the key parts for the build are: Cams - going for 257 deg and 10.15mm lift, OE M50B25TU pistons - same bore as B28 but .73mm taller giving 11.2:1 compression lightweight alloy flywheel Local price is $4 grand for the pistons from several off shore sources the same OE parts are $1,900 - $2,400 landed Is anyone doing OE parts at reasonable prices locally - tried the usual independants - either don't do them or suggest AC BMW
  7. 1 point
    also early 316i had thinner door glass
  8. 1 point
  9. 1 point
    Depending what is wrong with it, it is still often able to be repaired with new (usually genuine) parts. Take the car to a Sparky. Tom - certainly worth repairing if only requiring bearings.
  10. 1 point
    Does look like its been sitting alright. I wouldnt be too worried about the thrashing. The engines themselves seem to hold up well its just the bits that are bolted on that fail. Its that made from plastic bound to fail scenario. Interiors are better quality than E46 and earlier cars as well. Stock just check plugs coils and vacuum hoses. Turbos get rattly wastegates eventually but consensus is that this generally happens above 160k kms. Most in NZ are auto so you cant bounce it off the limiter. I am sure completely ignoring oil changes will kill the engine but otherwise they are solid. I thrash my wifes Skoda more than my 335i purely because its so slow. The 335i only takes moderate pedal pressure to start making the scenery go by quite fast, the engine has a lot of very useable torque, and riding the boosted torque wave makes for efficient and quick transportation.
  11. 1 point
    It'd be less than I worked in the UK...
  12. 1 point
    Buy the parts off FCP euro, won't cost much.
  13. 1 point
    Got myself a super bad ass 318 with a super powerful m43 and 4l30e yesterday Talk about living the high life, it changes gears all by itself, none of my others do this, not even the X5! Changed the oil in the 318. Looked at the engine, got bored, drove home.
  14. 1 point
    I’ve been investigating this personally as mine’s got a bearing issue on it and in my opinion it makes more sense to get a new unit from the States. The factory unit is made by Valeo and they are on special at ecstuning at the moment for usd$189. Shipping is expensive from ecs however ($130+) but in reality true shipping cost should be about us$89 with usps standard express box. - if you use someone else with an account with the likes of ups ect it’ll be cheaper again still, I actually think if you pack it tightly it might be cheaper still or if you ocean it with kiwishipping. There is a catch however, through my investigation Valeo makes 3 tiers of this unit and it seems one is a remanufacture, one is OE (ie BMW) and one is Valeo branded. Without seeing all the units side by side it is very hard to judge if they are exactly the same. My opinion however is alternators are not complicated units and they are all much the sameness really - so any good branded replacement will be just as good as the original unit - ie anything from Bosch, Valeo, Lucas or Denso is a good alternative if you can find them cheap and only slightly more expensive than a rebuild (which probably uses Made in China internals)
  15. 1 point
    AES in Henderson is the place to go
  16. 1 point
    seriously, what do you want for this?
  17. 1 point
    Here is the dyno with just the exhaust done this shifted max power to 5,700 Rpm from 5,300 a few more upstream mods since this have seen max power shift to about 6,300 RPM . What is also eliminated is the dip at about 6 grand on the stock exhaust. Note the red dyno line already had some intake work done upstream of the intake manifold which shifted peak power from 5,300 to 5,500 Used to be slow getting to the red line before this now hits the rev limiter frequently in second and easily gets there in third. 328 Dyno.pdf
  18. 1 point
  19. 1 point
    Hi Tony & welcome, don't be put off by all the negative comments, enjoy your car & the site Barry
  20. 1 point
    Mmm I could use another E39 in my carpark
  21. 1 point
  22. 1 point
    Bugger! Glad she went to a good home
  23. 1 point
  24. 1 point
  25. 0 points
    Interesting Q&A regarding certification...