Jacko

I got some fairly legit ones off amazon, they're probably better than OEM.

Some 130 threads for ya to read up -

Awesome, thats my cars sister! Manual NZ new cars are rocking horse sh*t, one of 13, glad its getting looked after, was a good buy. Welcome to the cool kids club The only difference to mine from the dealer is mine got the aero pack rear spoiler (and mine has 175,000 more k's on the clock!) Id be interested in the BMW Performance backbox if you want to sell it. Demand world wide for them would be pretty high, but limited market in NZ. It'd be worth a couple of hundred if not beaten up.

fixed.

Possibly, havent really played much with INPA.

ISTA+ or Protools can do it

Valvetronic motor? Might be worth relearning the limits and seeing if it goes away, as well as resetting the DME adaptations

Probably same thing, havent looked into it, its probably the same DSC module on all the 6 pots (4 pots are different for sure)

Is just a coding option on the LCI DSC module, is on by default on LCI cars. Considering my DSC module accepted coding for BBK, which is an LCI only option.. it may even be possible to turn it on on the older cars (why though..)

Its probably cheaper to just do an engine swap with a wreckered engine (that isnt dead). Hit up @HELLBM they may have something in stock.

e-diff, but it was only on lcis (which that isnt), and is sh*t. Just works like traction control by braking spinning wheel, sending torque to the other.

I was totally in the camp of BBK wont stop you quicker previous to these posts, but did about 20m of reading on the internet and now am expert, and that might actually be wrong as its not as simple as locking the wheel. Maximum friction between tyre and road is right at the point before lockup obviously. If BBK hooked up with ABS can control the wheel speed more accurately, through more braking torque and clamping force, then the wheel/tyre could be held in the sweet spot of maximum friction better... which would reduce braking distance. Should have done some testing before hand, stock vs BBK vs BBK with coding, would be curious if there was any difference initial stop distances.

Waterpump and thermostat on 330

Im trying to justify cost, yellow saved half a metre! Your "science" isnt helping.

After a B40 23 spine wheel nut key ASAP, anyone got one? p/n 36136762344 https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/wheel-bolt-adapter-code-40/36136762344/

Getting good at doing these, 3 hours.

Got the opportunity today to test the brakes, and coding, in Tauranga today... f**kknuckle in a van pulled out in front of me at 80kmh, I slammed on brakes at full noise, got ABS pulsing and the skippy lockup feeling.... full emergency stop. Missed the asshat by about half a metre, probably half a metre that I didnt have before to be fair. So they've probably paid for themselves

k's mean zippo if its been maintained, the question is - has it been maintained?

Fusso King of Gloss. It's definitely very glossy, goes on easily. Need to put on thinly as it dries hard and white, gets cakey if thick. Leaves quite a bit of dust buffing off... But it's definitely easy and very glossy

The M3 LCAs do BIG things to the steering, keep an eye on amazon you can get the OEM TRW kits for peanuts with some shopping around (think I paid like $200USD for LCAs and tension arms) Im surprised yours doesnt have the pin mod done, golf T mod and knocking out the pins is normally part of the 130 starter pack.

And the service, and workmanship, is crap.

Its butchery bandaid engineering Filling the voids in rubber with PU will give you like a variable rate bush, and if you're going to the trouble of fixing them - might as well do it properly. Its not even that massive a job to change them out with the right tooling, I think I did mine it about 4 hoursish? BMW probably went a bit OTT in the NVH reduction on the ass end subframe. Even with PU everything include diff mounts (and 35 series tyres), its actually not that bad.

19x9.5 will definitely rub at the front, likely inner and outer at et35, it'll probably hit the LCAs at full lock as well. The rear would rub on the outer edge. For reference, I run 19x8.5 et 43, and 235/35 tyres (RE003s), its a smidge lower than "msport" height. If I run Eagle F1s the shape of the shoulder will rub at 235 width on the front, over bumps, so only fits 225 in an F1. Its that tight (and thats with the camber pin mod, and M3 LCAs, so roughly 1.5-2 degrees more camber than stock) The rear has maybe 5mm clearance to the outer guard at ET43. Avoid spacers, get wheels that fit

Last time the Japanese got together with the Germans it didnt end well, but will give it a go, and its definitely JDMAF

I havent a peep from mine since install, its the eibach ones on the sway bar at the front that are a ball ache.