Jacko

Im trying to justify cost, yellow saved half a metre! Your "science" isnt helping.

After a B40 23 spine wheel nut key ASAP, anyone got one? p/n 36136762344 https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/wheel-bolt-adapter-code-40/36136762344/

Getting good at doing these, 3 hours.

Got the opportunity today to test the brakes, and coding, in Tauranga today... f**kknuckle in a van pulled out in front of me at 80kmh, I slammed on brakes at full noise, got ABS pulsing and the skippy lockup feeling.... full emergency stop. Missed the asshat by about half a metre, probably half a metre that I didnt have before to be fair. So they've probably paid for themselves

k's mean zippo if its been maintained, the question is - has it been maintained?

Fusso King of Gloss. It's definitely very glossy, goes on easily. Need to put on thinly as it dries hard and white, gets cakey if thick. Leaves quite a bit of dust buffing off... But it's definitely easy and very glossy

The M3 LCAs do BIG things to the steering, keep an eye on amazon you can get the OEM TRW kits for peanuts with some shopping around (think I paid like $200USD for LCAs and tension arms) Im surprised yours doesnt have the pin mod done, golf T mod and knocking out the pins is normally part of the 130 starter pack.

And the service, and workmanship, is crap.

Its butchery bandaid engineering Filling the voids in rubber with PU will give you like a variable rate bush, and if you're going to the trouble of fixing them - might as well do it properly. Its not even that massive a job to change them out with the right tooling, I think I did mine it about 4 hoursish? BMW probably went a bit OTT in the NVH reduction on the ass end subframe. Even with PU everything include diff mounts (and 35 series tyres), its actually not that bad.

19x9.5 will definitely rub at the front, likely inner and outer at et35, it'll probably hit the LCAs at full lock as well. The rear would rub on the outer edge. For reference, I run 19x8.5 et 43, and 235/35 tyres (RE003s), its a smidge lower than "msport" height. If I run Eagle F1s the shape of the shoulder will rub at 235 width on the front, over bumps, so only fits 225 in an F1. Its that tight (and thats with the camber pin mod, and M3 LCAs, so roughly 1.5-2 degrees more camber than stock) The rear has maybe 5mm clearance to the outer guard at ET43. Avoid spacers, get wheels that fit

Last time the Japanese got together with the Germans it didnt end well, but will give it a go, and its definitely JDMAF

I havent a peep from mine since install, its the eibach ones on the sway bar at the front that are a ball ache.

The superpro PU bushes are legit as well, Id skip M3 too (and those silly gap fill insert things people use )

HELLBM has the tooling I bought to do them now, they can probably sort ya out.

Not to sure, but considering the Z4 and Z4 M share the same subframe, and come with N52/S54, and E60 had M54 and N52s, there is probably a bmw engine mount config thats common.

Computer says... Waterpump. New kit ordered.

Wife driving along, apparently got orange coolant warning, and then 3 seconds later red overheat warning, instantly pulled over and shut it off. Just got dropped off on a tow truck. There is evidence of coolant around the reservoir, its definitely overflowed. Battery is at 4v... maybe due to sitting on side of road with hazards and lights on. Had to pull apart the boot trim to get access to battery, it wont charge in the car as so flat the key is stuck in ignition and its trying to boot Will scan once its got some volts back in it, Id normally instantly say waterpump failure (it was running fine previously, no weirdness or codes), but the coolant splashes around reservoir don't really agree. No oil in coolant, or coolant in oil, no signs of broken lines or fittings.

Do it. Would be a slick E30 setup, probably weigh 30-50kg less than an M50/52/54, and way more balls.

Keep an eye on these guys, in Strayla, they are doing some cool stuff with N52s. The headers they make are stupid expensive for mild steel, but the proof is in the pudding I guess. https://www.brintechcustoms.com.au/all-products/n52-custom-exhaust-headers

E30 swap...

Well I ran it for 2months without coding, and it worked fine, BMW obviously spent the time do develop new parameters for the DSC with bigger brakes though. How much difference it makes and where I can't say, but there is a definite difference in brake feel (it's better, brakes feel stronger earlier) , so it's done something.

Coded in the BBK to the car, +SPBR to VO, wrote to CAS and FRM, flashed rest of modules. Of note is that it worked fine, despite the car being outside the date range that the BBK was an option. It definitely makes a difference, no idea what its like at the limit now, but the bite point in the pedal changed and it feels more aggressive in applying pressure. Still scratching my head as to how to code out the MOST-Bus ISTA+ hanging issue, considering the car never had anything on the MOST before, just now it doesnt have a headunit that controls it (nothing)... annoying

Spot any LCI leather door cards at zebra? I regularly search tardme, but all the LCIs seem to be poverty pack options...

ISTA+ installation just randomly goes tits up, redownload and reinstall the 12gb, still dont work. Throw toys, have a tanty, order bimmergeeks cable, then have a beer. F(*&^^*&en BMWs, who buys this sh*t.

I can hear your wastegate rattling from here.