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I don't care how few km this car has, nearly $15k is taking the piss.

One of the first to roll of the line. I like the color. Not the price so much. I'd rather pay less for a well maintained higher mileage car than one thats been a garage queen. On top of their price your going to need to replace every piece of rubber and plastic in the engine bay. After saying that. I still want it...ha ha. M60B40 is bullet proof and I have some nice black leather seats that could go in it. Drop the 1 and round the price up to 5 and I'd be real keen.

Acquired and fitted a genuine mtech 1 rear spoiler. Ahh Inlove all over again

Installed the occupancy sensor defeat for the passenger seat, removed seat, test fitted NZKW bracket and slider for my Recaro seats. All seems fine (and no airbag light) although I think everything will be a bit too low, I might need to prop it up a bit, possibly by using ~1" stands between the floor bracket and sliders. BTW - don't pay $65 for an occupancy sensor defeat from Trademe, get a better one from eBay for $12 shipped.

Barry, I was able to get to your website with ease over the weekend.

Need the large case carrier from an M3 at the minimum, can't remember if the rear cover bushing centres are the same distance apart with the medium & large case. If the 210 has different spacings you'll need the whole damn subframe. Pretty sure you need the matching driveshaft too, the input flange sits a little further toward the trans (I think) with the large case. Add the extra power loss from parasitic drag c/o the extra mass of the 210mm & it becomes a pointless swap unless you've done some monster work under the hood. Large case LSDs are rated to handle on average an extra 50% more torque than the medium case ones, so unless you've got an engine making a hell of a lot more oomph than stock there's really no gain in going to the 210mm. Easier, less work and probably cheaper to find a medium case E36 diff or have an aftermarket LS centre fitted to your existing diff.

Retune it (running a standard 2.5 tune with lower rev limit), properly attach the shift linkage, finish the engine to body loom adapter, repair/mod the engine loom to suit an e28 vs e30 and fit the correct throttle body and boot to suit the ICV. I either have the parts or they are on their way (1 or 2 small things left to sort).

So today I tested the head bolts / block threads. I could only access 7 out of the 10 without removing the cams etc, but they all held torque fine. When the car was overheated it didn't go into the red so I'm hoping the threads and block is fine. I will find out on the long weekend when I attempt the head swap.

Is this better Andy, and mucking around with some stickers.

LTW wing mocked up

whats up with not posting a link?

Drove it

Drove a 530i M and a 540 Highline today. Loved the 530, and to be honest didn't really care for the 540, not sure if it was just because it was the highline and not a M so more just about cruising in comfort. The 530 felt quicker and more alive which i guess is down to ride feel being the sportier M version. At this stage i think a 530 will do me nicely, the motor is really nice, reasonably economical but still some decent boogie when you get up it. (and similar to my 3.0R Subie) Got a few more cars to look at, but its the front runner at the moment anyway.

I didn't even know you were running an e39 as well. what's the new project?

Ended up going with Racetech brackets and NZKW subframe. Worked easy.

The problem with these late model alloy blocks is that they have little structural strength and the little they have does not like overheating. They often twist and damage the main bearings which lead to oil pressure loss and big end failure. If you ever strip one of these late model blocks they have brackets to support the sidewalls of the block to the main bearing caps. Guys using these late model engines for racing make up a cage that goes into the block followed by the sump

Hey Barry, that's a lovely example!I've just stuck a set of Style 5's like those above on my e28, they were factory rims on some e39 V8's. They're a good fit with a similar offset. Just need hub-centric rings fitted to make a perfect mount. Just waiting on some springs to make it more low

KBM

Rich, pop into Chicane Racewear in Penrose and see me, we have Racetech seats on display. Im also installing my racetechs this weekend and you are welcome to sit in them

Lazy lazy lazy, that's generally the problem. Lots of Kiwi businesses won't go out of their way. In saying that if they do yip I'll support them as well. Every overseas purchase I've made has been a positive one, maybe I've been lucky, can't say the same for kiwi co dealings. Good Ol customer service can't be bettered, online or in person, that's what the focus should be from more kiwi businesses instead of whinging

About to do this mod on my car, got myself some FD series 6 calipers, have heard people say they are different, but after some research, it appears that they are dimensionally identical and i figured its best to go with the newest parts available anyway. They look quite nice too once the Mazda logo is removed...

There is a reason for requiring photos and prices of items for sale, it helps prevent scamming and giving the unpaid/unthanked moderators a hell of a time trying to sort out the issue despite the site not having any ability to pursue any offenders. It is not difficult to do. If you do not like the rules, go and advertise somewhere else like tardeme where there is every chance you will be ripped off/answer any amount of ridiculous questions/ not get any response from the auction winner etc etc etc. Your choice.