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I'm in a different sand pit... you go and play in yours and I'll stay here and help people

there is a legal limit of 100mm off the ground for the lowest point of the vehicle (excluding bumpers,skirts etc,Including chassis,diff,etc), if you use adjustable suspension you will have to have your vehicle inspected by a LVV (Low Volume Vehicle) certifier, this also applies for other modifications to engine capacity,engine mounts,suspensions,seatbelts, exhaust, blah blah list goes on bru, Good news is I will be going for training to become and LVV certifier this year

First impressions after driving the 530d model.. Positives, drives like a 5 Series should, very comfortable cruiser now with the benefit of the adaptive damper control can be changed and pushed harder in Sports mode and it sticks. Interior quality and technology huge step forwards, too much to take in for just one drive. So quiet, even with the diesel motor, and plenty of grunt. Only down side - hard to tell apart visually from the latest 7 Series! Not sure if this a bad thing, maybe for the 7 Series owners it is? Being a typical BMW driver I don't always indicate, and when pulling back left on the motorway, as I hadn't indicated the car physically steered me back into the right lane which was a little bit unnerving as it took me surprised. Once I realised what was going on, and why it was doing it, I was happier! Sure it will sell by the truck load in Europe and the US, but it will be interesting to see how many find homes in NZ due to our love affair with the X5 and SUVs.

Yeah fair enough but they are not that bad and being in Auckland you might not notice it when you're stuck in a traffic jam

Hey guys, I've recently started a build journal on a US site (m3forum.net). I thought I might as well replicate it here as well. Some of the content is written for a US audience (miles vs km, LHD vs RHD, etc) so feel free to ignore those bits. I'll update here as I update on m3forum. So having owned my M3 for a year last week, and given I'm embarking on some significant work over the next month, I though it was about time I started a build thread. I got the car in December 2015. I first seriously looked at buying an M3 in 2008, I decided (wisely) to pay off my student loan, etc. first. I then ended up getting married in 2012, and spending some time & money on travel with my wife. In 2015 I was finally ready to start thinking about an M3 again. For a number of weeks in August and September I had my eye half-seriously on a 2005 Silver Grey SMG model for sale in my home city (living in New Zealand there's not a huge number of E46 M3's on sale (between 5 and 8 at any one time). I still wasn't really sure if I was ready to buy one or not. Then one day it was sold, and I realised then how much I actually wanted it... I thought that was it and prepared myself to wait until the next one that met my requirements came along. Then, a few weeks later the same car was back on the market. It had actually just been traded between dealers. In the mean time the second dealer had done some work on it (to make it more attractive for sale presumably). New wing mirror glass on both sides to replace the damaged ones on it. All trim parts on the centre console replaced - looked like new. New OE brake rotors fitted on the front. That weekend I went to have a look at it. It was in much better shape that I was expecting. The exterior wasn't perfect, which I was expecting from what others who had looked at it had said. But the interior was in really great condition. More importantly the mechanics of the car seemed to be solid. The car had had the subframe strengthened by BMW NZ, had been serviced at a reputable BMW dealer, and had had things like the RTAB's done a few years previously, which was an indication that the previous owner/s had been taking at least some care of the car. To make a short story even shorter, I ended up making an offer on the car, and I took it home 3 days before Christmas. It ticked pretty much all the boxes for me. I was looking for: A later manufacturing year (2005/2006). SMG (yep I know, but I'm an engineer, SMG is cool, its a differentiator, and I really wanted it). Silvergrey or LSB Sunroof 19in Style 67s I bought it knowing that quite possibly it would need the VANOS done (which indeed it did), but that didn't really bother me. My intent in buying this car was to work on it, maintain it, and make it better than the day I bought it. I plan on keeping this car for a long time, and its an opportunity to learn and develop my mechanics skills as I go. I'm lucky in that regard in that I have my dad to help me. When he was about my age he owned and restored a Daimler SP250, so I'm not exactly on my own on this. A couple of months after I bought the car I ordered the parts to do the Beisan VANOS rebuild, did the full rebuild, new exhaust disc (existing hub tabs are 100% good), timing chain tensioner, cam bolts, etc. It was a great first project, we spread the work over two days, took our time, and the end result was perfect. All the rattle was gone, and the engine sounded smooth. Over the New Zealand winter I didn't get any major work done. did new belts, pulleys and tensioners, and replaced the crank case ventilation separator, but not much else. Which leads into the present day The summer project is a full suspension & bushings rebuild, cleaning up the underside of the car, cleaning, painting, etc. The aim is that the underside of the car will be as close to "like new" as is realistically possible. For me that means: Replace parts that wear Clean everything else up Seal and paint where appropriate to protect In New Zealand we don't salt our roads in winter (mostly cause it doesn't get cold enough) so the car is in pretty reasonable condition (more dirt and grime than rush), but if you're under there you might as well do it right hey! A couple of weeks ago I ordered Koni yellows to replace the stock shocks, as well as about 60 different part numbers for pretty much anything on the underside of the car that looked like it would wear out. Today Dad and I spent the afternoon getting the car up to working height on jacks (oh for a lift). Over the next few weeks we'll be dismantling, replacing/restoring and rebuilding. I'll be updating here as we go along. Hopefully in a few weeks time the car will be back on the ground and good to go for another 150,000 km :-) For now I'll end with a pic of the car up on jacks.

Ok its time to get serious about selling the 330ci. I have to admit I am fond of the car and with my 335i being a bit unreliable I have continued to use it but now its time to sell it. Some of you know the history but heres whats been done. Has Ohlins Road and Track Suspension, $4000 new! (Certed). Eibach HD sway bars, and strut brace. Wheels are 7.5 front with 225/45/17 Pirelli P Zero Nero's 4mm tread. Rears are Bridgestone Potenza Re003 245/40/17 7mm tread. KMS 193k. This is a very good handling E46, just ask Olaf. The common faults have been addressed. Vanos rebuilt with Besian kit. Vanos oil feed line replaced. PCV System including hoses completely replaced. Rocker Cover gasket replaced. Oil Level Sensor replaced. Idle air control Valve serviced. DISA Valve rebuilt Alternator replaced. New Water Pump and hoses. Front Control arm bushes (Poly) Rear Control arm bushes (Poly) Strut tower reinforcement plates. Rear Shock reinforcement plates. Transmission serviced, flushed and new filter. Hawk performance brake pads. Slotted and dimpled rotors (Near new) Braided brake lines. New Radiator overflow bottle and sensor. Aircon regassed. Warrant til September and Rego to July. M Sport Steering wheel, Sony Bluetooth Head Unit, Wood Interior trim replaced with Silver/Alloy (Armrests not done but replacement silver arm rests supplied and you can have the wood as well). Serviced only 3 months ago. Synthetic 5w/40 and new filter. A lot of M54's I have driven feel slack in the mid range this is like because of the DISA and the VANOS being stuffed, this one has great torque to go with the strong top end power. Faults: The clock spring in the steering column can click sometimes when turning the wheel. The sunroof interior blind is missing this does not affect the operation or waterproofness but you can always see through it. It is tinted though so no problems. The car has a few small scratches There maybe better looking 330cis out there but this is one you can own without having to spend money on it. The interior is clean no rips or tears and did I say it handles well, yes it really handles like a BMW should. So Special Bimmersport price is $5500 that's my bottom dollar.

Cheers John - was being tongue-in-cheek... unfortunately the timing isn't right yet. Got a house to build, then an existing one to sell first; that's when I'll be ready/able to get something more german with another couple of cylinders (that'll be much happier with a daily commute from Whitby-L/Hutt rather than my current couple of km's). Looks a great buy for the right person - all the best with it

I got the oil tank back from powder coating today

god I would love to buy this.

Good to see you have a plan then, that's cool.. let me know if you want to sell the redundant modules.. could be keen.. radio, video, phone, monitor etc.. and once again I have heaps of audio looms, coax cables etc which could be handy for your project.. let me know if you need something.. cheers

If my E91 sells I would be all over this.. GLWS

The 330i is a great balance between reliability and power. No turbo so nothing much goes wrong with the engine and related components, but still plenty of power. Water pump will fail at some point, you'll probably catch it well in time if you check your coolant level occasionally, as they tend to leak before the more serious issues start (that's been my experience with my E46 328i and my E92 335i). They're pretty reliable but be prepared for $1 - $2k service and repair bills when things break.

Your Dad is awesome. Can I borrow him???

Update #5 Today was bushings removal day! First up were the subframe bushings. During the week Dad had welded up a removal tool. Basically the same concept as the official tool. One end of the tool straddles the subframe surround, around the bushing. A high-tensile threaded rod goes through the bushing, and a plate on the other end of the bushing covers the end face of the bushing. Tighten up the nuts on each end and the bushing is pulled out. Here's a pic of the tool (complete with demonstration bushing): And here it is in action: We basically followed the TIS procedures for the various bushings. The tools that we made for this job mirror the official tools in the way that they work. As you can see in the second photo, we also heated the subframe bushing cages as per the TIS procedure (600C for up to 2 minutes). Following this process the bushings came out in a reasonably straightforward manner. A fair amount of force needed (as you can see by the design of the tool). Here's one of the bushings after removal. Not in terrible condition, but also not as great as the new ones going in. And here's the subframe, free of the 4 main bushings. :rockband: Next up was the front diff bushing. Again, a very similar approach here. Just had to make sure we were accurate with the plate that cups the bushing, so that it was small enough to fit into the channel in the subframe, but large enough to cover the outer casing of the bushing. Here's the tool mid-production: Dad driving his MIG welder, with plasma cutter in the background. Note that without this equipment (and a parent, or other acquaintance of your choice, who knows how to drive them), manufacture of said bushing removal tools would be very difficult. And here's a couple of shots showing how the tool fits up. Note that after these photos were taken, testing proved that we needed to do double-thickness 10mm bar on the crossmember (like the subframe bushing tool) to provide sufficient bend-resistance. Goes to show just how much force is involved. That cross member is 70mm long, and ended up needing to be 20mm thick to take the forces involved! I didn't actually take any photos of the diff mount bushing during/after removal, but rest assured that we got it out fairly easily. We celebrated with lunch (which I didn't photograph, and won't show you, cause this is a car forum, not Instagram). After lunch (which has already taken up too many words in this journal), we moved on to getting the bushings out of the inner ends of the upper and lower control arms. We spent a while on this. The issue wasn't a mount for the side of the tool the bushing was being pulled towards, we were able to just use a large socket and some steel bar spacers for that (no need to weld up a tool), the issue was finding/manufacturing something the right size to cup the end of the bushing that was being pulled. We messed around with a few designs that we ended up abandoning, because we were in danger of flaring the ends of the aluminium sleeves on the bushings. We then tried just washers, and pulling only the inner core of the bushing, and letting it pull through the rubber. Again, in spite of a lot of force, we weren't able to make it budge even a little bit. At this point we consulted TIS procedure (and this awesome DIY: http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=464146) and determined that we were on the right track, and just needed to apply more force!!! We wound it back up again, added a pipe extension to the breaker bar, wrapped the whole arrangement in welding gloves in case of catastrophic failure, and just kept cranking. Eventually it gave way, and, once it moves, it's fairly straightforward from there. No photos of this bit unfortunately, we were a bit focused on not getting hit by flying bits of metal. But basically you just need more force. You have to get to the point where you cannot believe how much force is involved, and then go a few turns beyond that, and that turns out to be enough to make it move :thumbsup2: Here's a photo magically showing the bushing removed: We tried the same approach with the lower control arms (using spacers to keep the two halves of the arm with the correct separation). We succeeded in moving the bushing somewhat, but there was so much force involved, and we had zero confidence in being able to reverse the process to get the new ones in, that we decided to cut our losses and buy new arms, which already have the bushing pressed in. At $50 each it's a pretty good deal, and given these are fairly lightweight parts, it's probably good to put new ones on (at least that's what we told ourselves as it got closer to dinner time). Having already removed the trailing arm bushings a week and a half ago, that brings bushing removal to a closure for us. It's great to have got them all out. It's been really surprising just how much force is required to get the old ones out. Certainly without the ability to manufacture your own tools to get this job done, it would be either very messy and frustrating, or a costly process to get the bushings out. Tomorrow will be a slower day. It's terrible weather here at the moment, so I'll limit myself to more clean up of the exhaust section 1 and 2. Over the next few days Dad is going to clean up more parts for painting, and will paint as well if the weather starts playing ball and provides something less that 100% humidity. Over and out for now.

Update #4 This week has been one of cleaning up parts for painting, cleaning up underneath the car, doing some prep for repairing the front right RACP mount, etc. Last weekend while I was sick Dad cleaned up the muffler and gave it a polish... Before: After: After discovering the crack in the front right RACP mount, we dropped the fuel tank on Tuesday (more of a mission that we were expecting - none of the hoses were keen on letting go) in preparation for welding. While I was at work, Dad sand-blasted one of the control arms to see how it would turn out: It cleaned up really nicely - so will sand-blast the other one as well and paint it the same aluminium silver colour we did on the brake callipers. On Thursday after work we removed the upper and lower control arm bushings in the trailing arms using a puller set and a socket. Unfortunately not all of them are going to be as easy to do that way. On Saturday Dad and I spent the day cleaning up underneath the car, cleaning the front right mount in preparation for crack repair, sanding parts ready for painting, and also removing the main bushing in the trailing arms (we went for the "use a hole saw to cut out the centre of the bushing, and then use a hacksaw blade to very carefully cut the aluminium shell of the bushing. This allowed us to relieve the tension enough to get it out fairly easily with the bushing puller, and a hole saw blade that was conveniently the right size :thumbsup2:). I took the section 1 and 2 of the exhaust home to work on cleaning up in my spare time after work, etc. Below is an in progress pic showing one of the cats in the process of being cleaned up. Next steps are to work out what subframe reinforcing plates we go with, or whether we fabricate our own. I'm also thinking that it may be worth doing the BMW structural foam in the front mounting points as well (This thread: http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=440530 has a great discussion on how to do this).

Update #3 So unfortunately it seems that my car hasn't managed to avoid the RACP issues that the E46 seems to be susceptible to.. This is the front right mount... The rear mounts were foam reinforced by BMW NZ during the corrective action period, and they are indeed entirely free of cracks or damage. It's only the front right mount which has cracks (probably due to the loading going onto that mount with the rear having been strengthened). What is vaguely suspicious is that the front right mount has been painted black by someone at some point. I don't know whether they attempted some sort of repair on the cracks, or whether the paint was merely to cover over the evidence, but it does seem a bit odd. :shifty: It's a bit of a bummer, but not really a major (it was always going to be a bit of a waiting game to see if the RACP held up or not). Just means that now we'll need to drop the fuel tank so that we can perform weld repairs. (given it's only the front right that has cracks, and it doesn't have foam in it, it should be fine to weld-repair). I'm also currently looking into options for plates to strengthen all 4 mounts further. Given the rear mounts have had the BMW structural foam done, they wouldn't be able to be welded, but having done quite a lot of research in the last couple of days, I'm leaning towards the epoxy method anyway for attaching the plates. Anyway - I still have some more research to do before making a final decision. What this whole thing has highlight to me though, is just how glad I am that we're doing a full clean up, rather than just a whip the subframe out, do the bushings, and back in. The cracks were entirely imperceptible until the RACP had been significantly cleaned up. If we'd been in a hurry, and not checked properly, we'd have missed this, and then have had to have dealt with it down the road (possibly quite literally :lolhit:).

Update #2 Sadly it's been a quiet few days on the car-front. My wife and I have both been sick (how do you even get a head cold in the middle of summer??). So I haven't been able to do any work on the car over the weekend. That hasn't stopped dad though! He's been busy cleaning parts and prepping them for painting etc. From what I hear he's been polishing the muffler, cleaning underbody panels, suspension arms, etc. He also cleaned up the rear brake callipers (apparently it took 4 lots of cleaning with various cleaning products to get all the brake dust and gunk off. He then cleaned them up with the wire wheel and has spray painted them with high-temp aluminium-coloured paint. Pics below - they're looking awesome. Will do the fronts the same, although I suspect I'll be on cleaning duty for them Obviously any important surfaces are masked here. Over the next few days Dad is going to make up a set of washers, brackets, etc. for pulling all the various bushes. I'll try and get by after work a few days this week to do more cleaning etc. Also placed the *hopefully* final order of parts tonight. I knew there'd be extra stuff to order, but wasn't expecting it to run to an additional 28 part numbers :roll: Anyhow - that's it for now. Hopefully the next update will be along soon!

Update #1 Thanks for the encouraging comments guys! The last couple of afternoons Dad and I have been busy disassembling the rear underside of the car. Two days ago we removed all the underside trim, exhaust (sections 1, 2 & 3), heat shielding and the driveshaft. I'm really pleased to say that the underside of the car looks to be in really great condition in general. We were expecting to have rust clean-up and to re-paint the underside of the body, but it's really not going to be necessary. We'll give everything a full clean under there and touch up any spots that need it, but its looking good. All 3 hangers for the muffler are broken - I was anticipating that, so replacements are already on the way. Here's one of the broken hangers - they've all broken in approximately the same place: And here's a pic of the muffler out - lots of clean-up and polishing to be done! We took the driveshaft out in one piece (e.g. we'll undo the universal joint at the CSB now that it's out of the car). The CV joint at the differential end looks and feels good. The guibo at the gearbox end is quite thrashed up (as they seem to be). I have a new guibo waiting to be swapped on, so that will be easy to fix. One thing I was amazed by is how lightweight the CSB is! Even the way the CSB bracket is attached to the body of the car seems under engineered compared to the rest of the drivetrain. Presumably there isn't too much lash to control, so it doesn't need to be any beefier. I'll get some more pics today and add them in. Then yesterday it was onto the rear axle and the rear subframe. We knew that the "quicker" way would be to drop the whole thing as one, but given we didn't know what we didn't know, and because we're not trying to turn this in to a race, we decided it was better/safer to disassemble in manageable parts. Turned out that this was probably a good idea, as we ran into various tool fitment issues in tight spaces, etc. *again, I'll add photo's in here, but was so busy/tired yesterday that we didn't get many as we were taking everything out. We started with removing the brake callipers, as the brake lines are routed through the middle of the rear trailing arms. We then unbolted the shocks, lowered the hub assembly and popped out the springs. With the brake lines, shocks and springs out of the way we then removed the bolts through the bushings of the control arms (at the hub end not the diff end), unbolted the rear trailing arm, the sway bar and the CV joint for the output shaft at the diff end, and lowered the hub assembly to the ground. Having learned from doing the process on the driver's side (I have a RHD car, so driver's side is the passenger side for the USA) we made sure that we loosened every bolt before commencing disassembly on the passenger side. Our cunning plan to speed up removal on the passenger side came unstuck pretty quickly. The eccentric bolt that connects the lower control arm to the hub had rusted to the inner sleeve of the bushing, and although it was easy to get the nut off, we weren't able to slide (or forcefully encourage) the bolt out of the bushing. We decided the best approach was to disconnect the lower control arm at the subframe end, something which we couldn't do until we had the diff out, as the bolt for the lower control arm can't be removed from the subframe until the diff is out of the way. The challenge we had with taking the diff out (without the special tools) is getting access to the two bolts through the bushings on the rear of the diff, as well as the bolt through the front bushing. We were able to access the front bolt with an arrangement of a socket + universal joint + breaker bar. The rear two however necessitated loosening off the subframe bushing bolts and letting it drop by about an inch, so that the diff hung low enough to get to the rear bolts. To drop the diff we removed the front bolt completely, and let the front of the diff rest on the subframe. Then the two of us held the rear of the diff, removed the bolts and then slid the diff back, and onto blocks of wood on the floor between us. The diff is pretty heavy, but definitely manageable between two people. The diff is weeping slightly around the input shaft seal, so will probably replace the seals while the diff is out. Then I won't have to worry about it. With the diff out it was quick work to unbolt the lower control arm at the subframe, and get the hub onto the ground. Unbolting the subframe and dropping it was then easy, as all the weight was gone from it. We were pretty tired at the end of the afternoon (my neck muscles are going to take a while to recover), but everything is now out at the rear and can be further disassembled and cleaned. I'm sure we didn't win any speed records with the removal, but that's not the point. We both have a good understanding of it all now, and everything is safely out and undamaged. I think when it comes to reassembly we'll assemble the whole thing on the ground, and lift it back into place as one unit. Now that we know how it all fits, what order to do stuff in, and also importantly will be able to find centre of gravity more easily, it will probably be easier to put it back in as one piece, than it would be to reassemble it in pieces. Today is a bit of a rest day, so I'm writing up the list of additional parts that we've identified that need to be replaced, and will get them ordered. I'll take some more pictures and get them added to this post.

Did you do you manifolds? Keen to come do mine :-) I have the same problem with spacing

+1 on that!!!! Pictures attached for posterity.