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Yours is not OBDI. Post 1995 / 328/ M52 on wards, you are II. What you got there is likely an variant of the MS41.X ECU, have even seen MS4X ECU's that cant be flashed (Aus Import) in NZ, One of the cars in a local Racing Team I sponsor. Look up realoem and put the last 7 digits of your vin, should tell you your ECU IIRC. http://www.realoem.com/ That and I got well over two dozen tunes and maps here you can have along with a 30+ page installation guide you can try on. But we have had even MS45 (YES) done in the UK. the MS41 is easy enough to do it all yourself, dont pay some bloke to install anything either. Do can do it yourself, But it takes time. And grab yourself an AFR setup off innovatinve while you are at it. Now Deal is that ECU is very easy to do yourself, you can get 95% close, It wont be as good as Dyno tune at the right peoples but if you look into Rom Raider Project and learn it, then you can tune it yourself. Rom Raider: http://www.romraider.com/forum/ Then you can grab some VW K line Cables off ebay and some modifications to it, a decent laptop with Win 7/XP and get to work. I will have some videos up on my channel later how to set those up. Make sure its got the REAL Chip in it, dont buy it locally and watch out if buying from china, We have our sources for everything, Also my good acquaintance in Finland has a free tool, Test-O that allows you to Log the Data on your BMW as you drive and fine tune it, below is a video on how thats done. Some of it is in German, so if you cant read Deutsch, just request on the topic with the right module that worked for you and we will translate it. TestO https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1830510-Diagnostic-program-with-realtime-graph-view Now my personal take is, Well what are your goals? If its just a fun little car then save your money, and dont do ARP and MLS if you are going SC14 Route. Your motor will be fine upto 8PSI. Years ago I have pushed upwards on 12 on an Stock M52 but thats me. Anything more than 8 out of the SC14 and it wont be efficient anymore and not only that your trans if its an auto cant handle it, and your MAF will start to exceed its 3000K Limit, See our setups will get you full boost around 3K RPM usually. So the MAF will max out if you want to push it much. Add an 1750ohm resistor in the signal wire (yellow).. Again a good tune is needed. That said as far as engine building goes, if you are dead set on it, then I say unlike USA very few of these motors get properly Built here in ol NZ, (Due to either personal know how, finances, time whatever) and if you are going that deep fella you would not want to stick to a SC14, thats a blower suited for pushing an Stock Engine. See an SC14 and 300HP - 350HP is a Toy. Granted the American Endurance Race car that uses my setup saw well over 400HP and got 3rd Place, but thats already starting with a bigger motor (S52B32 US) and a built one, so the blower is just cherry on top. See, On a built engine what you want there is something that can actually push said 'built engine'. IMHO You want a M122H there. That will stock underdrven mind you put down a bar of boost with an intercooler, and you can actually push an built motor with that as it can easily go over 2 bars or more. It can also be restricted to 9PS if you absolutely want, but why would you want to restrct this beast? Now we currently have an M50TUB30 Stoker Build in NJ at my friend Keith's place, Built, and with that motor and the M122H our goal is midrange, around 500-600. As for Tuning we are using the Ostrich II Emulator, below is a Teaser from last year, first prototype in 2017, we have entered mass production of these this year. Also, for those interested, I made an post here yesterday addressing & correcting some haters, Showcasing our work I think its been moved to make an separate topic named marketing, would it remain there, I do not know. If people who like such projects or can appreciate the work, time etc that goes into these things can look past their differences then I am sure it will remain and even get a proper topic title but as it stands we all know what the deal is and where I am at and if people want to bury the facts and truth then it wont. Either way, regardless of all that, And by all means, look around and see for yourself, and do listen to the newspapers, and actual many in the client base than the few 'haters' who go on. I hope this helps and I hope that other post helps too. I am not much of a forum person, even the bigger international forums, cant make time for, but if you post here and I come across it, i will try to assist you with what I can or least put you in the right direction. Go well now. Warm Regards,

Definitely worth it Life isn't fun unless you have a BMW to work on.

I've serviced and driven one of these. BMW 503 V8

I don't name the cars, the wife does. But here it is, the baby wagon we picked up a couple of weeks ago. Freshly back from OCD for a stage 3 package. Amazing family car package, super comfortable, nice to drive, reasonable power and actually good on gas! Imperial Blue brilliant effect metallic (lol, and the photos don't do the colour justice, it's actually very blue in the sun), and Everest Gray leather, and M-sport. The really great features I think are the double sunroof, active steering with ridiculous turning radius and the 8 speed auto.

I have a BMW! 318ti with no engine. M54B30 going in soonish.

Not a bad family resemblance.

168621kms: Simple maintenance to enhance safety and lower driver stress in foul weather. I was about to leave Auckland on Thursday morning for the trip back to Wellington. My old wiper blades were 15 months old, the last Rain-X application had worn through, and the screen was getting smeary. Not good. A little remediation was called for, and I had a new set of blades in the boot. While I gassed up under the generous canopy at BP Drury, I: Thoroghly cleaned, dried, and Rain-X'd the windscreen Replacd the Wiper Blades (genuine BMW) P/N 61610431438 Filled the near-empty washer reservoir with BMW windscreen washer concentrate (yellow), and topped up with water. Fitting e60 Wiper blades: a trap for new players Wiper blades box says (in pictograms) long blade on driver's side. In NZ, the shorter one goes on Driver's side, long blade is for passenger side. Furthermore, you can't fit them the wrong way around, you'll struggle to get the blade onto the connector. As I left BP Drury in the rain at 0700, I nearly broke into song with 'I can see clearly now', such was the clarity... though Mikey Havok had started with The Smiths on BFM. No prizes for guessing which won out.... Gloomy rain, Morrissey's dulcet tones and irony-laden lyrics with Johnny Marr's jangly guitars, heated seats and steering wheel; a perfect winter's morning. Damn, I'd left my Smiths CDs at home, so made do with The Foo Fighters, Them Crooked Vultures, David Bowie's Young Americans, Groove Armada etc, once out of range of Auckland broadcasts. Back on subject, if you've not used Rain-X on your windscreen, you don't know what you're missing. It breaks up rain on contact, beads it up. Much better vision. Overall fuel economy for the return trip to Auckland (including urban running in Auckland): 10.39 litres/100km. The Drury to Wellington City leg 'returned' 9.03 litres/100kms (actual), and there was a bit under 1/8 of a tank remaining when I topped up at the Roadmaster in Wellington town. World's biggest village? It's hardly a city, in reality ? Happy days.

Look at the size of the rain shield on the drivers side!! https://www.trademe.co.nz/1673368203

Can we all do skids with it to break them in? #RaDzSkDz

The option price is for the rotors and pads upgrade, most cars come with calipers as standard these days. I believe the retail for one front carbon-ceramic rotor for an M5 is just under $9k. Yes, there probably are cheaper options out there now - for standard brakes anyways as I said before.

You need better tools!!! I’ve never had to drop the bumper to drop that muffler and I’ve done it more times than I care to count. You don’t even need to remove the diffuser. Easily done by one person with all four limbs supporting the bloody thing and a good jack : )

$3k per corner for carbon ceramics...? You're a little way out there. $15k option from the factory which is nearly $4k so times that by a heap for parts and servicing pricing. Good thing is they are supposed to last for a very, very long time. Especially with only road use. Pads go a bit faster though. If it's got the 5 year warranty then it must be an NZ new (factory warranty is only 2 years) and there haven't been any carbon ceramics optioned from factory except on the M3 CS. That is a LOT of car for that price, even with a few kms on it. If servicing has been done, which it should have been as its service included, then the kms are not a big issue.

Sprayed cross member. Arranging all the parts and ordering new bits. Hoping to remove engine and trans tomorrow and will fit in 2-3 weeks if all goes to plan.

Well its a good thing we dont smoke now eh Glenn? Dont need this monstrosity of a contraption on our windows. (im back at it 2.5 months now smoke free)

That's how big they were back in the 80/90's.... for the smokers

A bit of both i think, its harder to maintain a good oil film between the bearing and crank with higher pressure due to smaller surface area, which in turn leads to higher temps and contact between the surfaces. I think over all BMW did a pretty good job with the lubrication system on this motor, but there are always compromises when you are designing an engine to sell to the public. Also this engine was designed using their experience with their F1 V10, and none of them were expected to do 160,000 km !!

Too late, https://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=1665698868 Need the space back anyway. Too many sets of wheels on the go currently

Better than electric!

Really proud of our forum seeing this thread. We have a new member here, very little posts, but already made a nice little contribution post to the other newbie asking about first car in the other thread and also managed to get offers for help from complete strangers on this forum with lending tools and advise. What a stark contrast to..

5000 is all it is worth, . but i give 5k cash for it.. all it is worth, no interest on trademe !!

I want this guy to do all my PPI's from now