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Come on, keep up. The M3 hasn't been a coupe for a whole generation now (F80 production has now ended), and the M4 is obviously the coupe as it's based off the 4-Series which has 2-doors, except the 4 GC, which has 4-doors, but is a coupe. Erm, ok, maybe that's not quite as clear as first thought.. Interestingly (maybe, or probably not if you're not interested in these things), the M3 - the four door, has proved to be a much better seller than the M4 - the 2 door one, in general for New Zealand by quite a long way. IMHO it's better looking especially from the rear, definately more practical and surprisingly feels better balanced when being pushed hard. For those reasons, amongst others, many people have chosen the M3 over the M4. Strange that this car has come up for sale so quickly after being delivered, I got the impression the buyer liked to buy cars very regularly but they probably waited longer for it to arrive than they have owned it!

Selling my trusty S50B30 Race/fast road motor. Only selling it to buy Wrighty S50B32. If he sells his this will get as serious rebuild to the 380 HP range This Motor s due for a refresh but is a great motor. Do the bottom end and gaskets and you will have a great reliable donkey, or go the full hog. ARP bolts and studs, Schrick Cams and still running the single vanos S50B32 sump and oil pump. Group N oil restrictor valve Comes with a Chip Wizards BMW ECU mapped for this motor with increased rev range. Wiring harness, full factory S50B32 ITBs and airbox with simota induction cold air intake and super sprint matched headers. All ancillaries except catch tank. Plug and play into an E36 or get new sump for an E30 I have never had it dynoed as it came in the car when I got it, but it ran a second a lap off the worked S50B32’s at Ruapuna. It has done multiple 1:33s at Ruapuna, 1:51 at highlands and a 1:09 at levels. I’ll post some pictures later this week but ask questions via PM, Text or call After $7500 will all the ancillaries ECU etc. Doc 021 337 946

I do own both of them. I usually only drive them on sunny days. I have owned the M535i for 3.5 years. Bought it without seeing it in person. Never driven one or been in one before. Instantly fell in love with the M30 engine. Sounds fabulous, like a proper classic straight 6 should with plenty of low end torque. I have had lots of friends who have been as passengers in it and commented on the smoothness. I have upgraded a few things like suspension, wheels, brake lines. I do worry at times that it might not brake as good as the modern cars and I might be in trouble one day hence E34 brakes are on the cards. I do drive it hard from time to time and these cars love it. I keep all the original parts. I bought the E30 Mtech1 four months ago. The initial drive was disappointing thanks to the M20. But the whole car feels very light and compact in comparison. The seating is lower, you feel more tucked in. It's getting a few things done atm - injectors cleaned, valve timing, new heater hoses, suspension, wheels, brakes... Pretty much the same as the M535i. The stock E30 brakes are worse than the E28 stock ones. Rust is the biggest problem. No classic BMW is rust free. They either have rust or been repaired. Oil leaks is the second. But these cars are fairly easy to work on. I don't have much mechanical experience, so I rely on the forums and YouTube for help. But I do most of the maintenance myself. Price wise, $15k should be enough to get you a decent one with some minor issues. The M535i are selling for $30-40k in Australia these days.

So here you go

same here - four door over 2 all the time for me if there is an option. Wagon over four door if there is an option. But none of those 4 door coupe "hatchbacks" sorry. Not my cuppa

Replacement for the S8 comes in the form of this 2011 XJL. I’m a sucker for a large car if that’s not already obvious I’ve always loved the XJ look and styling, I think for a large car, it is large! It holds its style really well, plenty of dispute on the rear end and lights, but I really like the individuality this car brings over pretty much anything else in this class. I also feel it has aged well now a few years on. The supercharged version would have been adorable however, some, sanity prevails and this is nearly the 5.0 V8. 380 odd horses. Most of my daily work is motorway so an easy cruise on the V8 is no issue. Petrol consumption should be considerably better then the V10 (for sale) or V12 E38 which will now be a more special alternative drive. Aluminium body is quite light for its size which will help both fuel and handling. Long wheel base over short, well I think cohesively the shape works well in LWB and I feel you can see it was originally designed this way so why not, no major disadvantages to it other then the extra 125mm in length. Good parking sensors and camera, definitely necessity. The sound is glorious! More AMG muscle throb then BMWs more muted reving V8s that I have heard, yet sublimely quiet on motorway duty. Interior is also unique and beautifully crafted, even 7 years on, no rattles or squeaks apparant, although only 50k on this import example, ex Singapore incidentally so likely more equivalent to 100k NZ new with the round town driving it would have been in service for. Infotainment is a bit more mid 2000s then super current but you get, Nav, Bluetooth and streaming, iPod connectivity and USB, plus dual viewing capability so your passenger can watch a DVD while you have Nav on, probably pointless but cool nonetheless. Seats and adjustments and sublime also, better then the S8 and the F01s I have driven before getting this.Plus heated and cooled seats front and rear, Adaptive cruise control and it’s a very pleasant place to be. So a great start, 2 year warranty to cover any concerns but overall these have a pretty good rep and are a much cheaper warranty then a 7 series or S class.

My cow cocky mate sold his E36 M3 and has a new spare engine he was having built for sale S5032 professionally build race motor. Brand new build completed and ready for dyno. You can’t build this for this price. Starting from the bottom and moving up • New Race Bearing and ARP bolts • Molnar Rods with Wossner 12:1 Pistons • All polished, honed and milled, all new hardware, tensioners etc • Cat Cams 285°/279° with all the right followers, shims etc • Stainless and Nitrate valves. Professionally built at an engine builder not in someone’s back shed. Plug it into a ECU and away you go. Was being set up for an endurance racing motor to run approx. 325 – 335 WHP. Depending on your headers, airbox and computer. We were getting a comfortable 298 WHP on softer cams and standard airbox and lower compression. The test of reliability is the previous engine won both north and South Island endurance classes over three years Sold as a long block with no alternator, headers, starter or airbox (the stuff people usually swap off their old engine) Evan at Speed Factor helped with the build and we have all the receipts etc. Ask any of us the questions you need to know. After $16,000. The parts alone cost this not including the block. Building up a Toyota 86, so may consider part swap for genuine Toyota racing parts. If this is too much for you, check out the S50B30 also for sale (my old race motor) – if that sells first I buy this. Give Wrighty a call on 027 452 5908 or email him [email protected] or messenger me.

sorry for the slow reply, no i havent, but the guys are usually too busy commenting on it being the tidiest they have every seen etc etc to actually look at anything too closely.

If your idea of a BMW is a 116i and x1 you should also consider a Toyota Corolla and Rav4, they will do the same thing but be much more reliable over the years.

Not many cars to choose from so getting one in decent condition would be the key over mileage Registered NZ cars totals 51 1999 - 15 2000 - 10 2001 - 12 2002 - 9 2003 - 5

Quick update, it was the LPFP. The previous owner fitted an AEM pump to the factory mount, but the pump had slipped in its mount (despite zip ties) so was blocking the inlet of the pump, and the hose connected to the venturi in the bottom of the bucket had come off. Reverted to a bodged together standard pump and everything is back to normal, if not better than before. No codes and pressure is bang on in the logs (about 80-90psi vs 30psi under load). I have a replacement unmodified stock pump to drop in when i get time as i dont like relying on zip ties. I also dropped the trans pan, and valve body and replaced the bridge and tube seals. Not a hard job, just messy and time consuming. Trans seems to shift a lot better now, but should get even better as the reset adaptations learn the new fluid/seals. 7.5l of fluid went in, so should be the majority of the fluid changed (and did the 4l drain and fill 300km ago).

I'd rather drive a leaf than an e90 320i

Hey all, new to the BMW community with the purchase of this 02 530i So far everything that's needed to be done maintenance wise has been done by the previous owner however there is a little bit of exterior cosmetic damage which will be an easy fix (there's an 02 528i in the orient blue metallic at pickapart that is in pretty good exterior condition that I'll go take panels off soon)... Currently on my list of things to do include: Retrofitting RF Locking system (currently Jap IR Key) New head unit (and sound system) LED Angel lights and fogs New wheels or recondition current ones Possible repaint in San Marino Blue next year

Don't buy the 320i whatever you do - the N46 is probably bmw's worst engine with heaps of well documented problems. Buy the smallest 6 cylinder or diesel if you want better fuel consumption

It's illegal still. I've been with people doing it in an e30, an e36 and an e46. Never done it on the car, you'd probably fall off and hurt yourself. E63 has quite a long hood though, so it might be the safest one not to fall off of.

option 1 - get a band expander to get NZ radio, use phone's google maps for navigation and forget about bluetooth option 2 - sell car and buy a nz new model to get radio and navigation (still no bluetooth music with CCC iDrive) option 3 - get it done at euro surgeon instead of auto gravity (still expensive) option 4 - make friends with people who can fix this kind of things and spend a lot of time reading/searching and see if you want to make it a project to "fix/upgrade" it yourself (still requires more parts and tools and knowledge)

So I was driving to work today and after leaving the petrol station going around a roundabout, I noticed a car in front of me spin out I quickly slowed down and before I knew it I felt my car slide straight into the curb causing this to my wheels (rear was curbed already when I got the car) and tyres I immediately thought of a bunch of expensive repairs but thankfully it was only minor wheel damage and I'll probably need new tyres. Just a reminder to everyone, be aware and alert. Likely scenario was a truck refuelled and didn't put their cap back on and some diesel poured out as they went around the roundabout... The council was quick to remedy the issue of a diesel spill and I'm glad I was there to warn other drivers.