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I bought another 130i, this time a 5 door E87. I'm probably going to sell the e81. This one is almost identical to the e81(same year 2008, M-Sport, beige Leather Interior, Aluminium trim) but has two more doors. It also has more goodies in that it has the 18" M-Sport Alloys, seat warmers, electric seats, idrive and auto climate control plus the previous owner put in a Bluetooth adapter and mic. It needs a little bit of tidying up and definitely a cut and polish but drives nicely considering it's done a few kms.

Hi there, new to the forums & new BMW owner. I recently bought a low mileage (61K) 2007 335i Cabriolet hardtop & am loving the car. Crisp performance & handling, combined with top-down motoring (helps me keep my speed down but still have fun) It's the 6 speed auto, but I'm enjoying the paddleshift, so not missing having a 3rd pedal at this point. It was a Singapore import, & has been in the country for a couple of years, but is missing owners manuals, & I want to upgrade the nav to NZ maps & add Bluetooth streaming. Does anyone have manuals for these cars, or can you suggest where to buy? Any suggestions on adding the Bluetooth phone connectivity & updating the nav for NZ? TIA Phil

Loads of M20 stuff : Inlet manifold 2.0 still with injectors and rail $40 Inlet manifold 2.5 painted black $40 Inlet manifold 2.5 vapour blasted$80 Exhaust manifold 2.5, 3 stud $50 Rocker covers and other covers vapour blasted Camshafts, all good with no obvious wear, not sure if they are 2.0 or 2.5. Apparently they vary so they will need to be checked $60 crank, and other pulleys Flex plate for auto, early motronic with the trigger on it $50 Crank 2.7 H81 $100 Crank 2.5 H75 $100 Bearings, new standard size, fits many engines, M20s amongst them. rod CR6640CP mains MB7039AM Part number CR6640CP (STD SIZE) Mainly used for BMW 6 cylinder M20 M50 M52 M54 2.0-3.0 petrol engines and M21 M51 M57 2.4-3.0 diesel engines. Size: STD Position: connecting rod bearings Pairs/Quantity: 6 (complete set for one engine) Crankshaft diameter: 44.991/44.973mm $150 Rods, 2 sets, 2.5 135mm. One set maybe M50 rather than M20, a bit lighter. $100 Valves and valve springs 2.0 and 2.5 $5 and $2 each price as required, make an offer for multiple parts. Location south auckland.

Ever had that wiring job and ended up with heaps of soldered joins and strips of heat shrink. While adding a few interior goodies to Tim 325 this was the case after a bit if mucking around and a few wrecked connectors and terminals. Came up with this hope it is of help to some body. terminal removal.docx

So, my S.O was in an accident beginning of Feb, and the insurance has declared the car a total loss (considerable, given that it's only 1.5 years old, and was purchased brand new). So we have been car hunting. We test drove a slew of new cars on the weekend (Grand Cherokee, Jag E-Pace, BMW X3) and overall the Jeep was the most comfortable, the BMW the most engaging, and the Jag the most...well...generic. Not the topic of this post though. Today I test drove two pre-owned cars...a 2011 550i GT and a 2015 X5 50i. Both use the same N63 engine as my 6-er, albeit the N63TU in the X5. I was rather unhappy with the drives because BOTH drove BETTER than my 6-er. It's like the 5 and x5 we running on double-cream, and my 6-er was running on water with metal beads. Not great at all. This evening I hooked her up to ISTA+ and began a 2-hour long diagnostic session. I tested the engine for misfires, rough running, fuel mix, injector performance, fuel pressure, air intake, ignition coil functioning...the works. Finished off with a reset and relearn all adaption functions related to the DME. I also re-calibrated the EDC with new measurements and re-learned the dynamic drive defaults. Waited 15 minutes and took her for a test drive. Holy hell...the difference is night and day. Acceleration is smooth, linear and with zero hesitation. No shaking, no juddering, smooth idle and the ride is considerably more comfortable. Even the exhaust note is improved, from Eco Pro all the way through Sport+. Incredible result, and can't wait to take her on the motorway tomorrow to do some higher-speed testing. Moral of the story, if you have an F series BMW that's not running quite right...get an ESYS cable and run some tests. There's pretty much nothing you can break using ISTA+. ( I have a spare cable and software discs available if anyone is interested. $50)

I thought BMW used Shell lubricants these days? Surely anything else will blow up your engines?

Not that there is much difference between the two, BMW NZ supplies 5w30

Anyway. I don't need one right now, but so i know for future, does anyone have a valve shim tool for S50B30/32?

Hey 0-60 once i have the superchager in place ill have a better idea on how to attack the intake side, but do agree its current state a box around the pod filter would help. Gave the engineer a call today and he says he may have the heads ported and ready for viewing by the end of the week fingers cross he follows through with it.

I have two e28 528e's one with 300k km's; but have one other project consuming all the spare cash and time I have presently, but with all that torque and supposed 218bhp on tap would make an excellent towing car...

Yes? or Yes?

Wow thats fascinating. From the back, looks completely different to the M140. From the side, to the casual observer, looks near identical. Bonnet is shorter but longer, larger rear bumper, and that's about the guts of it.

E81 130i http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/61324-e81-130i-2008/

What's the one on the left? Looks like an M135 or M140?

Negatory. Did not know this was a thing. Means it's only $6178 more expensive ?

And approx the same (circa $35k) for an e82 bodyshell??

Maybe because you are asking top dollar for a not-super-desireable model of E36 M3. It really has to be one specific person who appreciates the low mileage and colour/cabrio combination in order to sell it, at that price too.

Still enjoying my X5 - had a good blast over to the Wairarapa for the recent airshow … but not sure if fuel usage is worse since trans rebuild … Have seen quite a bunch of 4.6is and 4.8is for low $$ recently and wish I could switch without (a) writing off all my repairs and (b) feeling like I'd be starting all over again

because sale = fees.

bear in mind Glenns past is in a workshop environment where you are accountable to the customer and need to keep the cost down. he does not have the right to cut corners in the workshop, and risk blowing up components, and can depreciate all the gear as well. Whereas at home on ones own car, one can take that risk. I too, would use a normal battery charger.

Thanks guys for your collective and valued words of wisdom and reason. Some of us live behind our own dung-heaps and can't see the other side. 'It is what it is', I'll leave it for another keeper to decide then. I've included another picture or four of the car which could be an option a prospective purchaser may prefer too.

You could probably get an early model Prius for similar money, would be less trouble although finding a new battery might be costly

I'm not an expert on wiring but have experience making and modifying looms on race boats and cars. Putting in some effort is well worthwhile to obtain reliability as bad wiring will kill your enjoyment very quickly. I would advise investing in proper loom tape, good crimp tools and terminals, as well as a terminal release set. Do plenty of labeling, even if it seems obvious, and try to stick with the basic concepts used by the manufacturer. If you can get hold of another sacrificial wiring loom then that can be a good source of the right colour wires for any extensions etc. Strain relief is critical for reliability in a race car or boat. Manufacturers are generally very good at this aspect, so take note of what they do. You might need more if you thin the loom right out, as multiple wires help support each other. Proper loom tape is very helpful with this. Its not that hard to do, but is very time consuming. Did I mention labels? Lots of labels. I use a label maker with flexible tape and put clear heat shrink over it to protect it.

2 door 1 series hatches are the craze especially over in UK ever since the 130i and now the M135/M140i's, we in NZ are not so lucky to have them except for a couple (literally a couple) of ex SG ones.