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Here is some photos of it i got it for half of what its worth

Hi, and yes insofar as I test drove a number of 130's before I picked mine up and I could feel the difference. Is it the ~20hp claimed? I'm not sure but it's certainly good enough for me. The LSD and suspension I have makes most of the difference, I found the stock suspension to be almost dangerous on B roads so if you need to replace suspension do not go for stock. And even the standard power was easily able to overcome the traction of the rear wheels and the DSC would kick in all the time, often at inopportune and dangerous times, with the LSD the DSC now only ever comes on in the wet when I'm powering into a corner from a standstill (e.g. intersection).

BMW parts are expensive. Alfa parts require you to sell your children.

Friday 5th June 2020 Time after purchase date: 6 years, 1 month, 3 days. 73 months, 3 days. 318 weeks. 2226 days... FINALLY

They actually sound bloody good ill put it on the hoist tommorow to see what they are i can see that its something you buy off shelf not a custom made one

Yeah imo lower kms just feels nicer in the sense that less people have had the opportunity to mistreat or fail to understand maintenance with the car. A properly repaired write off, that has good wheel alignment and good rust prevention, a hight standard of workmanship is also a bittersweet feeling. I could see though how you could flog out some suspension parts in 50k though, how bad was it @qube ? Enthusiastic driving with heavy braking will take their toll on bushes quickly on heavier cars. Every bmw I’ve owned has had highish kms. My 99’ 540i had 250k on in 2008 when i paid 11k for it. 8 years Owning and about 14k in it excl fuel and insurance I wonder how much back then a 20k purchase price lower kms example would have cost me in running it in 8 years. High kms doesn’t bother me too much if I have time to enjoy restoring/maintaining/upgrading it as the purchase price is usually half or less of what I’ll end up spending on it ?. But when i get less time i’ll definitely be getting something newish, low kms that I can just put petrol in and drive, maybe a clean now and then.

Funnily, I went totally the opposite way... pulled LED foglights out and put in some 3000k yellow halogens in as I think they looked better with yellowy light against the xenons

LED fog lights in, so much better aesthetically and these Philips lamps are high quality. One side done... Both done, matches the angel eyes well...

Post pics and details of the 130 please... you can get them flashed, mine's running a 280hp tune, glad I've got an LSD... mine came like that, I'm sure others will know of options available here.

Very nice manual 330ci on trademe at the moment . Decent amount of power, looks great and easy to work on.

Went to see my ex.. It has come up for sale as the guy I sold it to traded it in for an Evo8. Was hoping to maybe buy it back if it was still in good condition but idles rough, engine rattling a bit and turbo/wastegate sounds a bit weird too. Just not the same as when I had it a year ago so had to walk away. A real shame really.. its come up for a good price $20990 which is a bargain for the spec.

Looks like the front and back of two different cars stuck together.

Ill take this challenge, Ill tape up the odo on my 15 year old 130 K's mean nothing if looked after, I bet a well looked after 300,000km car has lower k's on individual parts on it than one with 100,000km on the dash.

@BMTHUG just bought one, not sure how much he paid but I think it was advertised around 8kish? They don't come up for sale very often, in particular good condition ones so if it is mint then might be worthwhile bringing it and saving the hassle of finding one and getting stuck with a lemon

to be fair low ks are better, 100k is not exactly high ks and is only just out of warranty nowadays so hardly a fair comparison and of course the japan market changes their usage entirely but lows is always going to be better (except those weird japanese issues of crawling in traffic) every moving part has done less work, be it a key/ door lock, a seat spring or seam, window motor,door hinge a clutch or brake, even the pedal hinges age with use, suspension and drive train, less creaks squeaks and rattles, brittle plastics from prolonged heating and cooling, paintwork there's just no way you can buy a 200k car and not feel the difference in a newer low ks car despite all maintenance being done, Ive owned plenty and now finally can afford to buy newer lower ks cars thankfully and the difference is startling. yes they can be mechanically sound and enjoyable but to deny they aren't more lived in is laughable I think, when I think of all my teenagers cars you remember the crap you just accepted as part of owning a car. now its just the odd tyre or oil change for me. as always you can get a lemon in any ks

Agreed My 135i (albeit n55 motor) has been way more reliable than all of my old DC2 Integra type r's haha. 3.5 years ownership now and I've only had 1 weeping o-ring on a sensor.

4 year old wisdoms from this morning - "Dad - when I grow up I'm not going to buy a BMW first" "Why is that Max?" Pointing at a Hyundai Sonata - "Because I'm going to get one of those first to see how bad works first"

sounds a bit like our lovely government. oh whoops. not supposed to talk about politix here

Interesting thread... Between the 14th and 20th of April @E30 325i Rag-Top and @BreakMyWindow screwed around with my account. I received a number of "warnings" for various posts (none of which seemed to break any rules). You can see two of the warnings here: http://bimmersport.co.nz/profile/14-m3an/ but some have been removed. On approx. 17th of April my post and messaging privileges on the site were removed by @BreakMyWindow without cause or explanation, the whole site became read-only to me. I still do not have access to PM's at all (read or send). A few days later (approx 20 April) my two vehicle posts (M3 and 130i - as per my signature) became unavailable to all users, logged in to BS or not. They are still unavailable. (this may have happened at the same time as my read-only ban, I didn't check at the time) On approx 25 April I used the 'contact us' message to the site admins to ask what was going on. I received no acknowledgement or reply. Nobody told me I was banned, nobody told me why I was banned, nobody told me I was unbanned and nobody told me why they hid/deleted/removed my vehicle threads (not all my threads, just those two in particular). A great deal of respect shown there. Look, I hold out hope that all this was a mistake and monumental cock-up but the lack of engagement and follow-up really makes me wonder. Regardless, I'm happy to leave if people want me to leave but it seems like an abuse of power to me, some accountability would be respected. I may have rubbed some people up the wrong way in my time (unapologetic) but I've been a meaningful and (mostly) positive contributor here for nearly two decades and I had two really valuable threads that were internationally respected. If this is how the BS staff want to treat their loyal user base then I'm happy to move on, just say it out loud. Unless the situation is explained properly and my threads are restored I'm wondering why I should even bother. Hence the lack of recent contribution. The ball is in Bimmersport's court. Thanks for standing in my corner @sweetm3.

Had bridgestone swap mine here in CHCH to potenza re003. They were very specific that all four needed to be done at same time legally, as I initially just wanted to start with the two rear and leave the run flats on the front. But certainly no problem in swapping all out. Even with full bolt ons, tunes etc. the tyre replacement is BY FAR the best change to this car I have made. The difference is night and day. Maybe those run flats are ok on perfect sections of the autobahn, but round Christchurch streets they were so bad I almost thought something was wrong with the car. I brought a BMW pando kit for about $150 and have that in the boot encase I ever need it.

A tyre pump powered by the cig lighter socket, and a can of tyre slime will do just fine. I've had several punctures without a spare and the pump was always enough to get me to a tyre shop. Have yet to use the slime. The low tyre pressure sensor will warn you well before the pressure gets too low to drive on, so you can pump the tyre back up and drive carefully to a tyre shop, if the warning goes off again then you've got enough time to pull over and pump it up some more

It's remote mount, fair few options I think. vacuum operated and just plumbed in to the existing clutch line. The real 'issue' is the increased pressure pressure plate.