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I'd send Brent a message on here (BM World) to see if it's still available. Not sure on costs to paint... I still have my new one in a box... I should get that sorted! 🙄

19x9 and x10 style 63 aka tiger claws. Fitted with 275/45/19 pirelli snow tyres. $750ono. Located christchurch

Loosing my garage space so id thought id try to sell it by doubling the price. Seems legit.

If he can sell it for that then all power to him. I've seen a couple of others on TradeMe that wouldn't even sell for $5500.

Appreciates the profit too, no doubt https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/540i/listing/3926835969?bof=t1CUuipv

Spotted this 1987 e24 635csi in gazelle beige with brown leather and period car phone parked in Akaroa on New Year’s Day. Also saw this 1990 zinnober red e24 635csi and 1988 alpine white e30 325i sedan at the Vintage Car Club New Year’s Day picnic.

You’re the second person in 24 hours who have recommended their stuff. Will have to do shopping!

I have no specific knowledge in bimmer land but if you end up needing to tweak things with some new / aftermarket items I'd highly recommend AdrenalinR (https://adrenalinr.com/). Used two of their mufflers on my car and was impressed with the product, plus its kiwi made !!

Ah yeah it is quite a bit different. The E39 rear has two mufflers, one being just a bypass of some kind. You can cut one out and get a nice tone under load which is what I did. A mate of mine owns the Pitstop in Albany. He is on holiday at the moment and probably at least until the end of the month. But he has done some magic with BMW's. Understands how raspy they can get. Pop in and chat to him if you get stuck. His name is AJ, just say Dan sent you.

I am also pretty picky when it comes to exhaust notes. That is strange considering I have owned many SR20DET's in my time and they sound like sh*t at the best of times. But I did my best to make them not sound like 90% of the ones out there on our roads at the moment. With my old E39 540i we tried removing the rear bypass muffler only. So at idle it was quiet. But under load it opened up. No raspy notes or drone. Does the E34 have a similar setup or is it a more traditional straight exhaust with no bypass? We did a convoy with Ollie and Andy (Bimmersport Founders) many years back travelling to an E30 race series round. 1 x E34 540i and 2 x E39 540i's. I was at the back and I could hear Ollies E34 the entire way from Auckland to Manfield. Lots of drone. Avoid that. Maybe E39 exhaust parts could help?

Seems Legit garage brackets arrived, so I decided to test fit one of the front brakes to ensure everything lined up properly. Everything bolted up nice and easily, and looks great. Tried to put the stock front wheel back on, no chance, far too small, nowhere near enough barrel clearance. In other news, Ive ordered a new set of wheels, 18x8.5 et45 Apex EC-7 in the anthracite finish, should be here in 2-3 weeks.

Lovely looking Cirrusblau(?) E28 525 in Wairau just now - beautiful car - such a great colour with the chrome trim and polished lips.

Ho ho ho bimmerheads. Merrily having myself some festive wrenching here. With the engine rebuild near enough finished, I'm now just tying up all the other loose ends to hopefully drop it in before the end of the year. To start off, got a nice wee letter in the mail the other day. I'd asked on E46 Fanatics if anyone might have a spare manual cluster backing plate to block out the automatic gear screen and one fella gladly obliged. Bloody awesome community that. Came all the way from Pennsylvania and is a nice cherry on the cake. Had a bit of a dilemma with the power steering situation. The donor car came with an LF-30 pump that I had already pulled apart, cleaned up and refreshed with all new seals. Was prepared to bite the bullet and get a new high pressure hose from BMW for something like $400+ as those are different between the LF-20 and LF-30. Got a quote from BMW a few weeks prior and was told it's available on order from Auckland. Gave them a call to get one in and was instead told it'd need to be ordered from Malaysia and would be unlikely to arrive until sometime in January at the earliest. Looked over the current LF-20 hoses and they're actually in decent enough nick, problem is the LF-20 pump itself seemed to have some play in the shaft making an audible rattle, which left me a bit uneasy. Ended up going for another scavenger hunt to Pick-A-Part, hoping to either find a pressure hose for an LF-30 or a decent enough LF-20. Out of the 7 E46's there, the LF-20's had either been taken or they'd come with LF-30's so I ended up grabbing a pressure hose for the latter for just $16... then took it to Enzed and dropped $300 to get it refurbished. Smort. Finally got the final stubborn low pressure power steering line removed from the coil on the car that I'd given up on previously. Annoyed the hell out of me. Would not budge at all pressing the white clip in. Tried jamming in a cut up strip from a plastic bottle to no avail. Resorted to cutting it open with a rotary tool in the end. Stupid thing. Managed without any damage to the cooling coil and have a new line to go on anyway. The steering rack itself seems in decent nick and I found this engraved in it when wiping it down. It seems to say "03.15 209k" so wondering if it's been refurbished in March 2015, at 209k km? Bit weird as I bought the car at 214k km's in 2021 and it's unlikely it'd only done 5k km in the 6 years, so assume the rack must have come from some other car at some point. Anyway, tangent. Tackled the wiring looms next. Did a thorough inspection and gave everything a clean, cleaned off a few oily connectors with some contact cleaner and replaced the bits of plastic corrugate sleeving in places where it had crumbled away it. Also removed the auto transmission / O2 sensor loom from the ECU/relay box and tidied up the reverse light wiring I'd left in a bit of a dodgy state previously. Properly crimped and heat shrunk everything in place and culled or tidily tucked away the remaining automatic transmission wiring bits going into the cabin. Also found some sort of... repair someone had taken on previously? Bolted up the new dual mass flywheel and clutch kit I'd bought off @Eagle and mated up the engine and gearbox. Finally found a good use for two old bean bags my partner's been nagging me to throw away for a good part of two years now. Make a good cushy bed for the engine to take some pressure off the crane. There's two E14 bell housing bolts that are longer on a manual box than they are on an auto so I made sure to order those in (part no. 23001222894). Looking at it, the auto ones would probably do the job but wouldn't engage the threads fully so best to be safe. Got pretty annoyed when I got onto bolting on the main tensioner and it started spewing oil all over the place. Frustrating as it's barely a few years old. Bought it from FCP Euro as well so would be covered by warranty but can't imagine the return shipping costs would make the exercise worthwhile. Also discovered that I'd bought the wrong type of AC tensioner so have ordered new ones of both, should be here beginning of the coming week. Gave the exhaust manifolds a good scrub and will look to throw those on prior to the engine install. Not a fun task bolting those on in the car. Gave the whole car and the engine bay a good clean, it'd done a great job collecting pollen, dust and bird sh*t these last few months. Getting really annoyed at the horrid state of the paint now. All going well with the mechanical side of things, I suspect a full respray is on the cards in the not too distant future. Have rolled the car back into the garage finally, tidying up the last few bits and will start tackling the engine install. Plan is still to get the car up and running, break the engine in properly, go for WoF and start tackling the other missions that will knock the wheel alignment out of whack. Front subframe will get all new control arms, bushes, wheel bearings and tie rods, whole rear subframe will be refurbished and will probably throw in adjustable camber arms for good measure. With the subframe out, also aiming to tick off the reinforcement plate mission. Got a full kit from CMP as well as the weld in beam that goes along the back of the rear seats. Not sure if I'll end up going all the way with it but best to have it on hand anyway. Will also try out their solid steering coupling. Currently has a poly coupler that is a squeaky little piece of sh*t so definitely getting rid of that; more on it in a future post. 330 brakes are still waiting to be rebuilt. Some might have also noticed boxes of suspension bits on the shelf in one of the photos. Got a set of Eibach Pro Kit springs and Bilstein B4's all round on a decent deal from Demon Tweeks. Big pile of plans there but should feel brand new when I'm done with her. As far as more immediate tasks, will probably take the driveshaft to a shop to get tested/balanced. Pair extra to get the rear part of the driveshaft send over along with the manual conversion from the UK but the dude didn't mark it at all when removing so no idea how it's supposed to line up. Bit silly. Also haven't quite settled on what to do with the exhaust. Lined the 325 & 330 ones side by side and apart from the flap at the tail pipe on the 330, they seem to be pretty much identical? Leaning towards going with the 325 one if so. Am also thinking I'd like a bit more volume out of it so keen to hear some suggestions as to the best course of action, short of dropping a few grand on a full new setup. Don't want it to be stupid loud but in stock form it seemed barely even noticeable so just after a slight increase. What sort of difference would cutting out the secondary cats / resonator make? I assume deleting the muffler is sure to make it obnoxiously stupid?

Before after with the oem CSL brakes!

Oooh

Watched some kid and his brother in daddies new Ranger trying to Stevie Wonder their way around the Supercheap carpark this morning. Cameras and sensors on every corner, all the gear an no idea.

Been slacking on here recently, finished Uni for the year and have been busy with work since. Trying to save enough money to keep working on this project of slowly building a club sport/weekend track car spec 135i. Brakes needed doing on all four corners (pads and rotors), any decent ones that would work for some track use were quite expensive and would still leave me with stock calipers that are prone to failing in high heat, a well known issue with the stock 135i brembos. So I came across a set of f82 m4 brakes for sale, only 2000km on them, out of a crashed car. Found some brackets that are sold in the USA to fit these onto 135i hubs and ordered those too. These m4 brakes seem to work a lot better from what ive read, and seeing Robert Kubica's Nurburgring lap. Unfortunately due to the massive 380mm rotors, had to sell the CSL wheels since they do not have sufficient clearance. So new wheels will be on the way soon, more money... Also been working on trying to figure out how to remove the entire iDrive system and wire an aux straight into the speakers for simplicity's sake. Lots more things to come soon.

To check the timing marks in my opinion its definitely a motor out job. As u have to remove sump to even get the back plate off and doing that between the firewall and the gear box would be what nightmeres are made of . once engine out thou its pretty straight forward . only issue we had the the damper plate on the steering being in the way of the drivers side engine mount. Left loom one the engine and disconnected from ecm was alot easyer then trying to unclip the loom etc . Im probably guna be trying to source a new engine as for me its realy not worth getting new valves ,head work ect just working out if its even worth buying new engine or replacing car sadly

been a long afternoon. But have the results of my problem @Cammsport. Chucked up a couple of pictures , wouldnt realy know unless ur removed the head apart from two rockers being ever so slightly lower then the rest

Counterpoint, do what Milan did with the last caged m325i for sale...