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Bought me a big ass 2007 total span shed Also on property is a late 80s house.. that needs a lot of work... but check out my shed! No leaks!

Hey there everyone! My names Logan, I'm from Christchurch. This is my E36 which has been my project ever since I bought it back in November 2017. After reading the forums from time to time thought I'd join the group! Anyway here a few photos of the 22 year old, not everyone's cup of tea but hey it makes me happy! VID_20190215_193318.mp4

On a bmw forum I feel it's a bit weird to suggest masochism is a bad thing.

*skate park.

So I decided the NBT and EVO retrofits were both too compromised for me to consider but still wanted a more up to date system. Enter the Android screen replacement. I have been following Avin's progress in releasing theirs for months, but was put off by their final price. So I tracked down the OEM (I believe) who's head-units I have also used in other cars before. I paid just over US$500 for the unit, shipped and landed. Installed this evening and while the install was simple enough their very simplified installation instructions neglect to mention that the iDrive controller needs to be looped in too. Either way, will post my install photos tomorrow and do video review of the unit in the coming days. For now here's a photo of the finished look.

Hi forum I'm interested in finding prices for a n54-n55 135i auto model diff. Or small case 335i built after 08/07 Link for info http://www.vacmotorsports.com/news/335i-and-135i-differential-faq-no-lsd-really-1483338466.html Or if any forum members can point me point me in the direction of someone that might have one. Thanks

I asked them about the coding prior hand, they said they can do it. I did see them stick into the OBD port and did some coding. The initial on of the car I saw a battery warning on the dash, which was immediately resolved. Aside from that I don't know how else to confirm if the battery registration was done properly. They did seem to know about the battery regulation, etc. Looking to an analysis for a base line, possibly using this NZ local? https://www.oillab.co.nz If statistics is on my side I still have 40-50k kms to go before the rod bearings would show signs of wear. This post is probably that I can relate to me, where I am in the start of his initial purchase https://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e60-m5-e61-m5-touring-discussion/511233-my-07-e60-m5-bearing-story-1st-year-ownership.html Like him I have taken the route of using Ceratec, which I currently use on our Cayenne. Cayenne V8 is known for bore scorching, similar to S65/85 engine the manufacturer hasn't come forward with the cause, etc. There are a lot theories, remedies, etc. nothing definitive. There are similar debates to add or not, but with the Cayenne community it has swayed more to the add Ceratec as there is one owner who had a minor bore scorch a Cayenne Turbo was able to save his engine from a block replacement by using it. Initial observations with Cayenne before using Ceratec, it would use oil about 1 liter per 5,000 km. This is on the low side of oil consumption on the Cayenne, 1 liter per 1,000 kms can be expected as per owners manual. After adding Ceratec beside the motor is much more quite on first few mins after cold start, it hasn't consumed much oil after 10,000 km. For the M5, I am just on the first 100 km but so far it significantly reduced the cold start up noise. The M5 now sounds less of a diesel upon startup, more like a noisy gas engine now. Unrelated to the Ceratec but so far the oil consumption is a lot lower than I expected on the M5. So far only 0.7 liter a bit more than 3,000 kms. We got the car from the dealer slightly overfilled at 1.5 liters, now gone down to 0.8 liter and it kinda was staying there for the last 1,000 kms. I have 1 liter of 10-60w on the trunk, so far I haven't used it. It is one of the fun and not so fun part of owning older cars, we are on our own to do our best to take care of the old cars. Kinda fun to also understand them and get our minds off other things.

unless you are a masochist.

also once yu turn the car off, parked on the side of the road, push the indicator stalk up to first setting and then up again (will spring back to the first setting again), and youll find the park lights on the right hand side of the car only have come on. this is on all BMWs i have tried it on from the E30 onwards, and is also common on many other european cars too. symbol is P<

i guess you hadnt arrived here in the 80s, when there were the biggest cuts in NZ, under a Labour govt.

Instal was pretty good, haven’t driven yet as we still have to sort all the piping out

So a super charger has found its way into the engine bay! should be a bit of fun and also a big learning curve!

Yep, sounds like a piece of cake! ? Good to know it's possible though.

Naa, put crocodiles in it and call it a moat!

the pools not fenced and empty

Can confirm: Windows/sunroof close works here Fuel cap latch lock works here Indicators don't seem to work here in all cars (not restricted to BMW's) ? My M3 has heated mirrors, door locks and washer nozzles, not sure about the 328 (ex. Japan) Dash test works here Not mentioned in vid: OBC test mode Digital aircon diag mode Fun 'easter eggs' for a 90's car.

Cheers, she's going to be a lot of work, serious doeruper but solidly built. Wouldve been a slick yuppie house back in late 80s though, going to have to get an E24 to match the decor

there are 3br HOUSES smaller than that! ?

great news Chris, congratulations!

As soon as I figure out how to get them past the wife. Trust me, first thing I thought: theres enough room for a twin post

When are you getting the hoists installed Chris? I'll be there the following day...

Replaced the battery last weekend. I went to "The Battery Shop" at Alice Town, Luke and his brothers are great to deal with. I replaced the battery as a preventative maintenance as I don't know the age of the battery. From the looks of it is an original BMW battery, may have came all the way from overseas or dealer just got an older battery and put it in. Tested to about 60-70% capacity but I certainly can feel a slower turn on the crank if the car hasn't started for a week. It will be a little colder in the morning and I would like a starting car as well keeping the computers happy so not to throw off false positive errors. Replaced with a Varta H15, 950 CCA. Let see how long it last. Contemplating on probably changing oil down from 10w-60 to 5w-50. I don't track the car, as well as do any sustained high rpm. I would rather much protect the engine especially the bearings on cold starts. Oil is like religion, but wouldn't want start a debate. Any thoughts as well as what is available locally that is 5w-50? Seen Mobil and Penrite, not much else.

More than happy to help, @Olaf! With all the software downloaded, it’d be a 5 minute job with your E46. Just message me with a time and place etc

E30 bonnet straight has a few small dents nothing a bit of bog won’t fix. pickup greenlane text 02101464084 $50

Thanks but I think for my tests it has to be a 328 cluster

Can't wait to come back to NZ and join this total sh*t show... From old to new I feel that NZ houses are piles of sh*t compared to the US. It was -18 outside the other day. Yet I was warm in every room of the house. And I didn't even have the bloody heater on. And it was built in 1915.

149,400 kms. After hearing the horror story of another member's E39 overheating, I couldn't drive Jane without staring at the coolant temp gauge. After realising that I would get the same utility from staring at my left thumb, I decided it was best to do something about the ridiculously buffered temp gauge that comes in these cars. With the advice of @Allanw, I bought a cheap OBD2 scanning tool, and set about adjusting the temp gauge ranges. This was actually a lot harder than I anticipated. It took me about an hour to get all of the software downloaded onto my laptop (user error), and a lot of the forums that have discussed re-coding these gauges were written from an E46 perspective. In my naivety, I assumed that since my E39 shares the same M54 as the E46, the process would be identical. It turns out that the coding side of things is completely different. This took another long while of internet trawling before I was finally able to get it done. As a result, instead of my temp gauge telling me I'm at 'normal operating temperature' from about 75C to 115C, it is now reduced to roughly 85C to 95C. One of the best mods I've done for my mental stability (and for the engine's sake of course), and highly recommend it for anyone with this era of BMW (E38, E39, E46 etc.). If anyone wants any help with this I am more than happy to help. Increased accuracy of our temp gauges is objectively a good thing; it gives the driver more notice when their car may be overheating or running too cold, AND hopefully prevents people booting their cars before they're actually at 'normal operating temperature'. More accuracy = greater chance of survival of these engines/cars and I am all for that! I also checked for error messages, and was pleasantly surprised by the lack of any current fault codes! She treats me well, this old girl does.

Strangely enough, your chosen strategy is to not speak with the people who have the ultimate power to say yea or nay the dealership service advisers), and you’ve found complimentary advice that confirms your own bias. Result!

well surely the dealer can be another"data point " if nothing else.

Seriously man, how do you get on with your dentist? Builder? Architect? Physiotherapist? Doctor? What happens when you go out to dinner; do you take the waiter/waitress to pieces if they recommend a dish or wine to you? ?

Dont worry even Huntly is expesive, next door and two in our neighbourhood over $500k. build ours 40 years ago for $39k and section $8.5k. 3 more sections left in street over $100k each

if your waiting for a market crash, then your in for a LONG wait. With high LVR's (30%) over the last 3 years, people are in no hurry to sell, they can afford to sit and wait it out. There would have to be a world wide depression for housing to drop much further than it has.( My opinion) I one said to a friend that if you wait any longer you'll end up in HuNtY.. He's in Pokeno. And if we're paying RATES on these valuations then we are entitled to think that is the price.

New radiator and oil cooler in, lights back in and working. Had the motor running today, but it runs rough and is back firing. We have to figure out what that can be, any suggestions would be appreciated. Cheers

Having had a little time to digest your statement, I have the following comment. During my time in sales, I found it was important to quickly qualify the few potential customers in this category. Best you could do was to be professional. They were usually powered by internet "experts", magazines, and unusual theories. They needed guidance, but you couldn't tell them anything. None of the internet "experts" were professionals in this field, yet they held sway... and were more often than not, well off-base. These customers were rarely likely to spend any money with you. By qualifying early, you could be polite, professional, treat them with respect as a potential customer, but still concentrate your efforts on servicing existing customers and new prospects with an open mind, to whom you could actually prove value and service, and even sell products and services to and create or grow satisfied and loyal customers. I can only suggest you've had some really bad experiences to generate this start position. I hope you can find a provider that works for you. Good luck with your search.

You know what they say about free advice. In most cases, It's usually worth what you paid for it!

Made some progress over the weekend! first complete floor mounted shifter is complete, just need to get the manual in to test it out. gauge/switch panel is also underway cage is coming along nicely