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*Glenn*

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Everything posted by *Glenn*

  1. Chris @ Suspension Tech.. but I dont have his phone number at home
  2. blaming me ...I let you through..you had too much speed on for the corners...or was it, you just lost it ??
  3. They look ok going sideways in dust too Graham.....remember Friday ??
  4. M20 engines you change the cambelt every 60,000km or 5 yrs which ever occurs first M40 its 40,000km or 5 yrs
  5. Heater matrix is fine.. so I'll be refitting that today with new "O" rings and get that side of the interior all sorted and back together.
  6. The oil cooler should be built into the bottom of the gearbox Dan. Retro fitting an after market cooler would be very expensive. Lifetime trans oil should be changed at 100,000km, along with filter and pan gasket or you can do it earlier (personal choice). Give me the chassis # and I'll check for you..or you can pop in and I'll have a look for you.
  7. Back on subject. To BLACK DORIS Looks like you need a service according to your SI board. If you dont have mechanical skills to do things for your self. Seek out a reputable BMW specialist that can look after your car properly. You will pay for this service and level of skill, however in the long run it will be worth it. I'm sure people on here from Welly can steer you in the right direction. In answering 4th. It is normal for the SI board to count down. When a service is carried out the lights are reset to five green lights on. These deminish by milage 1 green light for every 2,000km. Then the service orange promp will appear, if the service is not carried out and the lights are not reset, the red will come on. You could have faulty batteries on the SI board or the board could be faulty. If it can be reset there is no problem. Get it checked. BTW: SI= Service Indicator
  8. I would have to disagree Graham... I don't think we charge enough I trained for 5 years as an apprentice and I still learn new things every day An electrician does a 4-5 year apprenticeship as well. But he doesnt have the overheads we have. He normaly works from home and uses 1 vehicle. A mechanic needs premises, either buying premises or renting. His tools and operating expences cost less. $10-20,000 for tools maybe. My personal tools are valued at over $40,000. Workshop tools and equipment a further $90,000. My operating expenses monthly are around $20,000... just to keep the doors open. We can also kill people if we are negligent. Unlike doctors, our mistakes dont get buried, they turn up on Mondays normaly. We charge $75 per hour so I think $77per hour for providing a service with skilled people is a fair charge. My IT expert comes to work with a laptop and a bag of discs along with his technical skills. He charges me $80 to arrive and $100 per hour while hes working. He has no office & works from home and has one vehicle. He provides me with a service... I just pay the bill. Please tell me or enlighten me why a qualified engineer should charge $150-$200 per hour... is he a more skilled person ? are his operating expences more than mine ? are his capital expences to set up a business higher ? I dont think so. However, I may be wrong. The Motor Industry in NZ, and this is only my opinion, under sells it self
  9. I'm not trying to be rude.. however if you are worried about the difference of $10... maybe its not a car ..or a BMW you should be considering purchasing.
  10. *Glenn*

    Rampant Phase III

    Not if its a M50B25... Graham... in the hole maybe... but not driveable
  11. LSD arrived this morning thanks to Dave (Silver fox)
  12. *Glenn*

    Hi-Velocity

    He also might have worked all night last night
  13. Current draw must be checked with your multimeter wires out through the boot. The car must be locked and you need to wait for all the ECU's to go into sleep mode 15-30 minutes
  14. I'm going to get Diff Specs in Manukau to do it for me
  15. Not much else I can do at the moment. Waiting on master cylinder and clutch plate from Germany and my flywheel and clutch stop from the USA. I'll get the LSD & 315:1 fitted tomorrow, get the heater matrix checked today...it looks ok.. I was just concerned because it appeared to be leaking a small amount of antifreeze on the gearbox from the air con drain. Anyway I'll get all that back together over the next couple of days and fit the diff and axles. Parts from Germany are meant to be here on Thursday. Dont know about the flywheel though. Its been sent via UPS. I also fitted new lower outer control arm ball joints and solid eurothane caster bushes.
  16. I have two in red though...make me an offer
  17. One of the reasons why I took the engine out. To enable me to fit the clutch hydraulic pipe in its proper place, and fit the firewall grommets in properly. Virtualy impossible to do with the engine in place.
  18. This is what I've done. There are two ignition positive wires. A thin green and a slightly thicker green/white. I've joined the thin green to the brown/black, which are for the starter. The green/white is power to the reverse light switch and the blue/yellow is feed to the reverse lights. These will be connected when the box goes in. I'll run the reverse light loom from the gearbox through a grommet in the floor where the old auto change cable went through. You can see the grommet in the floor just under the red/white striped wire.
  19. *Glenn*

    Rampant Phase III

    Another great project on the way I reckon the beer count will be in excess of 100 bottles by the time it's all finished
  20. Which one of your cars is doing this... and are you sure its the radio ??
  21. Bugger all... I;m only going manual etc. etc. Remove auto ECU. Recode DME. Connect starter wiring and reverse light wiring to bypas the auto trans inhibitor switch. I'm not cutting the loom. Just in case someone might need it further down the track or convert it back to auto...yeah right I'll be posting photos showing all this.... more to come... watch this space BTW: I did the wiring today.. Photos to follow. I'll recode the DME when the conversion is finished, which will include changing the rev limitation to 7,000 rpm instead of 6,500 rpm
  22. Its not true You can buy a crap Jappa as easy as buying a crap BMW.. be cautious and get a prepurchase inspection carried out by a dealer or a BMW specialist... no one else.. you'll enjoy the BMW more than a Jappa Edit: Nice choice Ti's Rule
  23. +1.. so what is wrong with his auction ?..the guys just trying to sell his car.. Ive seen worse "for sales" in here
  24. Where in Auckland are you ??
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