*Glenn*

You are correct. If you need a functioning key it will have to be ordered through the stealers by chassis #

I'm sure we used to service this car about 15 years ago when I owned Glenborne Motors Ltd in Parnell I know I've driven it... Company stamp should be in the service records

Have you tried Auto Clutch, B N T, Stirling Clutch & Brakes, the stealers ?? Oops... 1 & 3 options are both in Auckland

I was going to do this...however I wanted to see the results that someone has for an Auto before I waste my money

I like bikes

I'm confused too ... however, a set of torx sockets isnt going overboard if you own a BMW. Buy a set of inhex & hex to cover yourself

She looks alot like you Jeremy.....is that your cousin ??

One of my customers had Gavin do his diesel....was very impressed. I would agree...talk to Gavin... I think a control module was needed though

Thats correct...all new cams come with a run in stage warning about this

Yes and to keep the camshaft velocity up on initial start up

Valvoline put out a very good running in oil..not sure of the viscosity though

Thinner oil on a fresh engine allows too much oil in the ring lands and prevents the rings from bedding in. Thinner oil after bedding in is fine though

I would take a recommendation from your engine rebuilder, either SG or SH rated oil 20W50 for 1,000km then switch to a 15W40, to allow the rings and other components to bed in. This was recommended by Engine Rebuilders Ltd Edit: I hope you put molly grease on your cam lobes. Run engine at about 1,500RPM for at least 15 minutes. Dont let it idle. Then let it cool down (cold) and readjust your valve clearances. Am I right in assuming this is an M30 engine ??

The coupe seats will fit the sedan...but not the other way round as the coupe seat backs fold forward to allow people to get into the back seat. F/L & P/F/L should be the same

Use a well branded 15W40

And they probably dont work on 1986 vehicles anymore either, not many franchaises do Your original PM to me was "they sold me 10W30" I gave you the correct answer "20W50" If you had asked me what else I could use I would have said 15W40 because that is what we use on the older cars Its got nothing to do with compression ratio. Most modern engines run higher CR and thinner oils. Its all to do with clearances, loadings and flow rates of the oil in the engines. And climates too, recommendations also vary with climatic conditions.

It could be one of many faults causing that Ashok. Needs to be scanned and checked. Anything else not working, or do you have any other warning lights on at the moment ???

That's why I have my head above the blankets... Means: No BJ's I like sleeping with weight on me. Means: I go all night I need some weight to hold me down. Means : I like it rough Sorry ... I just had too

Lol.... I'll keep my mind outa the gutter on this one Gees ....you wouldnt beleive the answers that I have for each line on this

It might be the alternator that is the problem. When you jump start it again you should check the charge rate.. should be around 14 volts

AS I said in my PM...the 20W50 is the correct oil. However 15W40 will be fine but dont use the 10W30

I still have the mint 316 for sale...havent bothered putting it on Tardme http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....showtopic=15281 BTW: It comes with another dash (no cracks) and a mint centre console and a OEM towbar if you want them as well.

Welcome to the forum Mike

I would suggest having a talk to Custom Chambers in East Tamaki, Auckland. He's done some.

I'm a "stray" liner