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Hi All, I know there are few people on here that have had a v12 and will do a search later this week when i get time. I had coolant hose blowout, so swapped out the rear hoses...took for a drive and it blew the radiator. So pressure tested the system and have found a leak at the rear of the engine (its either the rear coolant passage and O-Ring or head) Is there anyway to get at the back pipes to have a look without pulling half the vehicle apart. (Have considered removing loom on top for slightly better access, or seeing if the cowel/intake for air system can be removed to get at passages) Swapping and O-ring to pressure test it again might not be a big issue if that's the case, As for now prefer not to pull it apart if its not getting in cylinder (Checked sparkplugs but haven't leak tested and no clue easy way to get each cylinder at TDC) Any help appreciated

Looking at all the posts and prices of parts and vehicles now, it seems no different to the Jap import market and the high prices people are paying for skyline, evo's etc The market will crash at some stage imo cause in my wildest dreams would i have ever thought to spend 15k on a e30 or $1500 for a older model engine. I should of held onto all those $4-500 bmw's i had as a young man that i just thrashed and moved on. Also doesn't help all the smart people realise the time for petrol cars is coming to an end and we may actually be forced to not drive them in another 20 years or so

I would like to say awesome work and its more effort than people think. Also thanks for showing the build along the way as if it wasn't for a head injury 6 years ago that f*cked my world up i would of had both my BMW projects built and going, also your close by and a member so might have to get some info off you where you sourced the rebuild parts from in the future Hoping one day to have my M73B54 in a special project (rather than using it for doing burnouts, once i get some new coolant hoses and hope the heads not leaking haha) and my E28 is the other one which i nearly got pushed into putting the v12 in there as they fit (Its all pipe dreams to i can work again hopefully not another 6 years but who knows with head injuries and life) Keep up the hard work, its a project and no doubt if you ever sold it there is a world market available and i do hope you keep it real as some of the v12 owners like one i got mine off it was like getting blood from a stone and wouldn't even sell me any parts off there other v12 that was living in the backyard not even running.

I use this if i am feeling lazy - https://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/p/sca-sca-tyre-black-375ml/339247.html Otherwise i would normally buy armor all tyre shine or foam but they are all really much the same unless buying from a detailing place (my friends brother does professional detailing around the world and if i could afford it would buy his stuff) For me personally if your rims look clean and you have wipped the inner guards i could care less about tyre's looking shinny as i like to look at peoples treads to see how there car drives

Update: 1. I learnt that there is an Aux water pump connected to heater core valve system (to help with bleeding the system keeping coolant running when car isn't started) 2. Have blocked off both heater core hoses but sadly i think the Joint between heater core and water accumulator at back is heading towards breaking off in the future 3. I managed to start bleeding the system for only the expansion tank bleeder valve to break. 4. This is what i get for doing a service on the car and expecting it to work haha 5. I am either going order new hoses and a bleeder valve or order a bleeder valve and find a hose so i can do a loop on heater hoses from water accumulator but attached to aux pump. will keep updated with findings (my project bmw is the only thing being neglected when this is taking the money haha)

Hi Guys, Just wondering if anyone has some advise, the coolant hose for the heater core busted so i blocked one side off but not the return. Went to start the car and just about immediately heated up and i could hear the pressure trying to get out of all the old coolant pipes. Would this possibly be due to me blocking off only 1 of the heater coolant pipes and it getting back pressure, or am i possibly looking a head gasket issue? There is no coolant in the oil and besides some random noises that weren't there yesterday that sort of sound like a flywheel bolt or the exhaust making a tinning sound (it has been sitting a long time) I do have a coolant pressure test kit but not one that has a rad cap for the bmw otherwise i have just used a cap in the end of a hose and used a hand pump so might have to try that. Thoughts etc let me know as i don't want to ruin the engine but its not worth me pulling it apart at the moment if it needs more than another cap put on the other heater hose Thanks

Just a thought, might help might not If there is water i suggest dealing with that first or at least putting die-electric grease or lithium grease on components (also if its had water in it for awhile it could get into the wires causing intermittent faults you will never trace down) - I used to use a dehumidifier in my boot after any water was cleaned up and amazed how much more you would pull out of the air showing that there was still lots of moisture around. I was also recently talking to a UK guy who was helping me for part prices and actually has a similar issue, His ended up being water actually inside the compressor which no-one managed to find until they were taking hoses off to manually run the compressor and bypass the electrics. So maybe worth checking the compressor itself and the hoses for good measure or just bypassing the internal electrics with some wire and seeing if the fault comes up. What ever you decide i do hope you find a fix or it just fixes itself as cars do at times, cause the hrs i have spent on some of my bmw's over the years just for it to one day work haha. Good luck

Thanks everyone for advise so far. I have done an initial clean on backseat as a test with some pet cleaner and used a old steam gun with nozzle i had laying around. Definitely has helped remove the intense smell, but does look like i will need to do some research on Ozone Generator and do some more cleaning/steaming to get it sorted enough to suffice for now Do think i need i will need change some of the interior out when i am feeling rich or hope someone might have one to part out with in the future (Is it a good thing or bad thing E28's are now worth more than 15 years...Yes if your selling not if your buying or wanting parts haha) Thanks again, hopefully i get this sorted and maybe next year the cars engine might get some love (been saying that for a long time now haha)

Paul Colliers in Levin is great and has a wealth of knowledge don't often see BMW stuff in there but i have seen other Euro Engines, V8's , classic cars you name it. Worth giving him a call Otherwise call Speedfactor in Tauranga and see who they use as they have always been good the crowd here even though i have noticed they branched out and less BMW orientated. Good luck on your search

Long story short, i moved my car to the front of my property a few weeks ago and didn't think to myself i should check the cover for the fuel tank in the boot after it moved (tank has been out for awhile but i only had one screw in the cover and flooring + parts on top of it) find out cover had slightly moved and 4 homes were built inside the car. It had all original interior in good condition, So far it seems only the backseat + parcel tray have taken the piss hit and some damage (only 1 wire so far from my speakers) Any thoughts on how to get rid of the smell? cause i know finding a good e28 interior isn't easy anymore or do i just have to bite the bullet if i can't get the smell out. Thank you ahead for any advise, its okay to laugh at my pain but not the car its been through enough haha

Good to see your still having fun, and if only the sideways action didn't leave tar on the car haha, guess we can go faaster... But damn tell me about it, signing up or getting things done at a rural property for anything that's only 5 mins out of what i called a town Give them my address, phone number...yep that's fine then its like you don't exist...follow up and finally get a human if your lucky and they explain they turned up but address didn't exist ....Proceed to bury head in sand like an ostrich

Thanks Alan for the response Ireland Engineering is probably one of the few places i haven't contact in awhile, i was focusing on places in the US and Some in Aussie only cause i have friends there so shipping can sometimes be easy (well not anymore haha) Its strange as i was trying to keep the car pretty stock but as my power levels grew and new technology has come its hard to now not by those little extras. I previous had the 540/750 brake setup the biggest you can fit under the stock 15" rims was a good setup until i sold it to another member on here who moved back to the UK (think it was) Your engine swap sounds like some good fun and probably more reliable , good luck with the cert (also good to know the are eventually going to QR code or similar so no stupid plates and it can updated without having to get plate updated) its meant to lower overall cost which i think is good as LVV Certs is a painful process (for me my local vtnz doesn't like me or my cars) Have a good week and hopefully in the future some updates from both of us

Hi All So my project has been on hold for quite some time. For multiple reasons i wont bore you with my sad life of the last 5 years. So think i am going to sell my only two toys worth anything here in NZ as i did a couple of bike restorations (only 1 or 2) in the country and due to shipping becoming so expensive and the cost of restoration i lost large so that plan failed. So i know there are multiple options for E28 when it comes to suspension and suspension parts now compared to 10 years ago when i started this project. I was thinking of talking to Speedfactor and seeing what there recommendations are and possibly contact BC racing and XYB. I am aware that there are E34 lower control arms that are an upgrade and few things like strut bars. My real question is where do i start, cause in my head that would be get an overview of prices. Then build the vehicle engine/rollcage (As it will probably need one)/fuel tank etc get it on a set of scales and go from there depending on the direction i go. Yes this is being built as a street style car but i don't really see it staying that way as if setup works i will probably clone it cause i would love to see it on the strip but know a track/street car doesn't always work as a drag car. Any help or a point in the right direction is appreciated.

To think years on i still haven't finished this project, amazing how life can get in the way. Also had to modify the manifold a few times due to fitment issues but since were in lockdown sorting out the downpipes and test fitting the engine, so i can do lots of small things before doing internals that no-one sees I do admit the thing about time makes you change so many things and also allows access and time for parts to come down in price, everything was custom originally and now at least there is more of a market. The big pain for me now is my custom turbo just feels to small for goal but have to start somewhere. Eventually my V12 will end up with something but that's for a time when im rich. Stay safe all

Hi All, In lower north island. Looking for an M30 engine pref E32 (To fit in my E28 with modified mounts as last engine i got was E32 and not quite sure an E28 mount will fit my plumbing through there anymore as engine) - Will considered engine with forged internals (but do prefer to build mine, just need a working test bench) Also after an SC12-14 or Eaton M45 Supercharger but will consider other options (For non BMW project but never know if neighbor would sell me his 2000 body) Thanks