hotwire

Only acurate measure of consumption is to measure distance travelled by fuel used. I did have an issue with the tank when I first got my now E30 race car (facelift) where the fuel light would come on at 1/3 tank & soon after the car would stop. After investigation I found the RHS tank (with fuel light sensor) empty while the LHS tank was still full. Turned out the the fuel return pipe had a hole in it (LHS inside the tank). This pipe enters the LHS, runs along the bottom of the tank, over the tunnel & down into the swirl pot on the RHS. Having a hole where it did caused it to lose its prime for evening levels of both tanks. Still have no idea what could have caused this hole in the pipe inside the tank (no external damage) but solution was a replacement tank. Not applicable to pre facelift cars as they have an external leveling tube linking both sides Never heard of before & will probably never see again but goes to show - anything can happen.

Well put Glenn, don't blame you for that at all.

Running the car for 10 mins WILL NOT charge the battery - it merely puts a surface charge on it - which will soon dissapate. Hense the car will restart immediately but not after an hour. Adding to this - for a modern Calcium battery (as yours) when completely flat, it is recommended to have the battery recharged on a proper charger rather than simply relying on the vehicles alternator to recharge it. Even on a charger it can take 24 -36hrs to fully charge from flat. Bear in mind too - a battery can be fully charged but still be stuffed due to low output capacity, best get it checked by an auto sparky or similar.

Yep, High line is the Jap variant (as mine) high spec model with TV, Nav etc

Welcome to site. Have PM'd you re this.

Yep, right - the wear caused to the above mentioned had run the cam jounals in the head for both cams & scoured hell out of the one where the shaft broke - hense throw away engine. The whole probem caused by that crap blocking the journals tiny lube orifices - allowing no lubrication & siezure of cam

Nope, just make sure you tighten it properly but not overtighten

Simple enough - undo & replace, Can use a thin ring spanner (cant remember size off hand. I put thread tape or thread sealer on new thread as I replace.

Towed in a no go Nissan Bluebird with SR18 engine a few months ago - checked - no distributor turn, rocker cover off - broken cam shaft. Engine looked the same or worse than above -& only done just over 100k & looking like never having had an oil change. Over 2G later -with another engine (Bloody 4WD! ) it was all good.

Good alarm & good back up from Mongoose. AGAIN as already said - ANY alarm is only as good as install. Personally not a great fan on Uniden - I am an authorised installer for Mongoose & Dynatron, have fitted untold alarms & experience with Uniden has not always been good

Not sure off hand - but check inside top of glovebox for a dropdown panel - as is E39

Have a great day mate!

Pixel failure is common in these cars - more in the bottom of instrument cluster than the air con display. There is a DIY procedure for the dash if competent, havent done one myself though. Robinsons Instrument Service in Auckland repair them.

Suggest run it for a while & see if it comes right. Mine (admittedly 6 cyl) when I first bought it into the country -had a tappet noise at idle ( a genuine well serviced & very low milage car too). After a week or so the problem disappeared & has never returned - 3 yrs & about 50k later. Suggest you do/get done a full service on it first thing so that you are starting from a known point.

Nice car you have. Good on you - you'll be rapt with it. PM'd you regarding nav etc Cheers Grant

If imported new from Europe it will have the correct radio for NZ. If Europe but out of Japan it will have a Jap one. Easy tell -Jap FM frequency is 76-90, wont get stations over 90 unless a band expander is fitted & then the numbers will be 10, 12 or 14 behind on the display (depending on expander) e.g. on a 10 shift 98.6 will read 88.6 on radio display

Yuk! Key words -hate them One crack in dash - yea right!! I can see two for a start & bet theres more

You probably have an M60 series. They dont have a valet mode as such. I take it you have a battery back up siren otherwise it wont continually sound with the battery disconnected -if you have - you should have a key to turn the siren off from a switch at the top of the siren. The alarm itself is disabled by a pin overide - a 4 digit code which is entered by turning the ign key on & off ign in the correct sequence of the pin code (unique to each alarm) This code is supplied with the alarm on a credit card type card. This is intended for use to overide the alarm in the case of a lost or broken remote but needs to be done each time to cancel the alarm - is not a valet mode. If you havent got this code - best you try & find/confirm it & likewise if you have a battery back up siren & no overide key - best you get one.

Ive only ever used an allen key for these & never had an issue

Steering locks broken as mentioned or by using a slide hammer with a screw at the end which is screwed into the barrell then hammered out. As mentioned with alarms - there are many good alarms out there BUT ANY alarm is only as good as the install. To do properly takes a lot of time to carefully conceal the module well & wire the system to look as factory, immobilising different circuits. If the module can be found - the system can be easily overidden. Also a car with a turbo timer & an earlier alarm/immobiliser (with no delay arm function for immobiliser circuit) can simply be overidden. I have seen many cowboy alarm installs that I could overide in a couple of minutes flat. Any alarm/immobiliser install only really buys you time or you hope they get pi--ed off & go find an easier target Another thing - not ALL crooks are dumb! Unfortunately!

Wire size doesn't matter - a single strand or a nail - all it needs is to conduct from one end to other. Regardless of size - if you get it wrong with connection you stand to cause damage. A 1 amp fuse is as high as you want to go - will give some protection but no guarantee if incorrectly connected.

If battery light is staying on -probably a crook alternator. This may well cause the trans limp mode, ABS light too. Get it checked by an auto sparky

No offense BUT - E30, E60 - Totally different beasts & about 20 yrs difference in technology -hardly likely to be anything like each other in regards to set up although agreed could well be the catch being the problem. As Glenn was trying to encourage recently - no point in diagnosing problems by comparing apples with oranges.

Battery OR battery lead connection

Well put Glenn - fully agree with you - plenty of us on here with experience in different fields of the trade & willing to pass that on. Personal views are called for but lets keep things positive