hotwire

Had seen those units. Looks like a good option. I like the integration aspect

Normally just get the complete bearing hub for the E30 - about 10mins to replace.

As above - loosen the bleed screw. Yes drain the whole system, if it is dirty then flush the engine until clean. Add a couple of litres of fresh antifreeze, turn the heater control to hot. I find it best to about 2/3 fill the system, run until the thermostat opens & slowly top up the system and wait till only water comes out the valve, Secure & top up the reservior. Drive & confirm temp is ok. Recheck level when cold. They can be a bitch to bleed if not done correctly.

Ah so a thread on an X5 water ingress issue has turned to an umbrella debate...

Trying to go modern retro (& not well IMO) - E9 by the looks

Yup i had an 80's Honda Accord many years ago that had the same thing thing with carpets. It had a plastic liner but with inbuilt channels to route the water. This had been ripped. Took me a while to work out the culprit as I hadn't come across barriers causing this issue before then.

Yep common in E39's too. Usually caused after someone with no knowledge of has been into the door to fix something. Incidentally had an E39 in at work a couple of weeks with light & radio gremlins. Car was saturated inside. Whole interior stripped out, carpets dried, radio & LCM dried out. Back together a week later & everything working. Culprit - both rear door vapour barriers not sealed. Guys at work looked at me sideways when i told them what the problem would be. This week have got a Volvo XC90 also with electrical gremlins - intermittent dash, brake lights staying on & saturated carpet on R/H/S. Again stripped out to dry. Culprit this time - some muppet has fitted a reverse camera, in running the cables down the R/H A pillar, has dislodged the sunroof drain tube from the rubber sleeve that routes the water outside. Water consequently running down through the Central Electronic Module & f##king it. Some people need to have more attention to detail...

Saw that listing. If it WAS an Alpina then yes.... As it is - probably not viable

Just bear in mind, as i mention above, that simply draining the fluid - removing pan & changing filter, does not remove the contaminated fluid from the torque converter

Yes Graham but it needs flushing to circulate old fluid out of the torque converter. What I was quoting was referring to flushing/draining - pan needs removing to change the filter anyway. Agree too on the fluid quality thing. Requires a place of reputation & the equipment

At that milage definitely get it serviced. The fluid is well past its useby. As Graham says - 100k is about the benchmark. You are not out of options - you haven't done the obvious yet. $400 ish by the time it is flushed/filter changed.

Well there's a contradiction for a start. ECU v clock spring. At least you are taking notice of advice. Plenty on here don't!

Be aware, scanning the system can be a goose chase with these unless you know what you are doing. They can commonly throw random bulshit codes or even none with a faulty module. You need to monitor live data & even sometimes manually check circuits from the from the unit to determine the fault. Been there & done that!

Likely to be the module & telling bulsh#t fault codes. From experience sensors rarely fail. Needs diagnosing to confirm. Check to see if it is dropping out the sensor reference voltage to the sensor - as mine was. Also do a sensor continuity check at the module. Power Stop Engineering in Tauranga to repair - if it can be repaired. Some can't - as was mine.

Mmmmm

Absolute bummer Nathan. I would certainly throw my toys if that happened. So bloody frustrating after all your time, money & patience.

Soooo why the hell don't more people on here take notice of Glenn & actually USE his services....

New oil is unlikely to quieten it

^^^^ Yes correct Nathan. A car with TV but no nav - the video module controls the screen graphics. When a nav unit is present - it overides the video module & it creates the graphics Once the nav unit is disconnected, the car needs to go to sleep & reboot for the video module to supply grahics

Lifter still sticking?

^^^yep Mk 2 & 3 I have no issue in programming. Much rather a turn/ push button than finger marks all over the screen. Also take this over the Navman in my ute anyday

Haven't removed them from an E39 nor looked at them, but presumably they are just a simple pivot as any other. If so - loosen the nut, grab the arm & pull/push it up & down to dislodge from the spline. Has always worked for me

^^^^^^ Nup, 2014 map disc

You seriously are beating about the bush with this. Scanning with no knowledge is a waste of time. Look at the sponsors on here for someone knowlegable to take it to. Botony Motor Works for one

You will need 1/2" rather than 3/8. Even at normal torque it is a load for 3/8. I've even split a Stahlwille !/2" socket on tight nuts before. Use impact sockets now.