hotwire

Yep, without being critical. I too am dubious of the welds - there doesn't look much penetration. Loving what you are doing though...

Yep that too Jon. Muppets on TM selling "cheap" LED H4 etc replacement bulbs with LED's plastered all over them (which give a totally uncontrolled light beam output) & a small disclaimer - not for use on the road. WTF else are you going to use an H4 bulb for? Joe Bloggs buys these obliviously & fits to the said Bongo etc - only to blind every poor bastard coming towards them. The proper H4 LED replacement has the LED's positioned in the exact location of the original bulb filaments - meaning the light is projected off the reflector in the same pattern as the bulb. And you are right - so many of these fall through the cracks at WOF time.

Only taking the p..s. I don't have one for programming & just use the work scanner for talking to the cars

;Off topic but it is obviously open slather on trademe now. Was a time that it was only NZ or Aus but with a NZ bank account. Then it was the UK & now....

Just make up an extension lead...

Yep 240 for the series cars. You would have had a 260

As above. Wide open throttle gets maximum air into the cylinder to give maximum volume to compress & get the reading, If throttle is closed then minimal air volume will get into the cylinder to be compressed. Means there will be a lower reading but also due to the lower compression - it does not put the sealing components (valves, rings etc) under maximum load to highlight a problem.

Just be aware these units are much bigger than the common little units. Haven't yet started an E39 but cannot imagine a problem with it. On Friday i used it to start a Ford 4000 tractor with a virtually dead battery - started no problem. it actually amazed me.

Get it converted to NZ Nav & it will be all good!

I had been using for a couple of years a small 400 amp unit (same as the Power All). While it has had limitations, it has been a great unit & probably started about 400 vehicles. It was though past it's best & I was more often getting the battery & leads out. I recently obtained a new unit (as in pic), it is way superior with about 4 times the output - this i have confirmed. Be aware though, any jump pack sitting unused in the glovebox for 12 months will prove useless in trying to start the vehicle. I often use mine several times a day. Jumper leads - discount the entry level ones, you will probably need to spend $60 -80 for a reasonable set

Also, what are your jumper leads like? Cheap sh*t small ones? If so - they are a waste of time & shouldn't be sold. I go out to numerous AA calls where the member has tried jump starting with no success. Is almost always these leads that were used. E39's are a pain with the separation of the jump terminals & you will be farting against thunder to start with a little jump pack on the battery. As Kyu says - connect the leads & run the Toyota for a few mins to get some surface charge into the BMW battery. Ign lock notice?

Its about par for course for a good series car. Get a car, build it to race series spec & see what it costs...

Not as easy as you think for any of those points you raise. Jochens guide does not equate to an E65. Integrated Reverse camera/ bluetooth all doable for the older platform cars - E38/39/46/X5 etc. I have done many, including Nav conversion from Jap to NZ Best get in contact with Joe @ Euro Surgeon

To true!

Are you sure you don't have a seized universal joint or a flogged centre bearing?

Nice car, only spoilt by a certain red one next to it

What I am referring to, as Glenn is too, is a flooded engine due to premature shutdown while in enrichment mode. Certainly I have not struck over pressurised lifters in this situation. What i am referring to occurs in a conventional tappet system or hydralic lifters, makes no difference. I have only ever seen/heard M50> engines with noisy lifters. BUT there are no doubt exceptions... Subaru - strange situation, but it sounds like a different scenario to what i am describing.

Just to clarify Allan. Rather than lifters - it will be a flooded engine - fuel. As you relate to - I go out to this issue on AA call outs frequently, Had a couple last week. When questioning the owner - I can always attribute it back to the last time the engine was running - usually caused by either starting -backing out to wash then starting again & into garage or starting to move the car to access another. Car will then not start the next day. In both these cases the engine has probably only run for a minute max. It is in cold start mode with fuel enrichment (as in years ago with a choke) injector on time is increased to allow more fuel for cold running, the engine though is still stone cold after this short run time. The excess fuel sits in the engine. If it then doesn't catch first crank the next start - the problem just compounds - injectors are still squirting fuel as you crank. Yes crank on full throttle - allows max air flow through the engine to help dissipate the fuel. There is quite a knack to this though & a "feel" for the method to get it to start - every engine seems to react differently - not all will start on wide open throttle. Some can be tricky to catch, sometimes I have even had to revert to removing spark plugs to dry them. Worst would be the Mazda RX8 - I think i have started every one in town. They literally dump fuel in when cold & would be the easiest car to flood. People look at me in surprise when i suggest the issue but once explained they understand. Have to say - I have never been back to the same person twice. I always suggest - it the engine is started - let it warm up for 4 -5 minutes before turning off.

If it's for the Race Series - Don't get too hooked up in wanting a coupe (unless you specifically want) - there are several 4 door cars running & there is no drawback with them in race terms. Also they are easier for parts now.

As per suggestions above or - buy a plastic fluid dispensing jug with a flexible snout & tip the oil into that via the lid.

Manual 320i has a longer front section than the auto. Rear half is the same Manual 325i front section is from memory 37mm shorter than 320i

Electric steering. Have driven a few Audi's & 1 series with it. As far as horrible goes - they aint got nothing on the Jappas - they are the pinnacle of horrible!

I converted a Touring factory sunroof from manual to electric for a customer many years ago. From memory, just transferred the electric rack from a wreck car to the original lid. Motor mounted to pre existing mounts, wiring run down left A pillar & connected to a factory socket behind the glove box. All plug/play. Fitted the electric version front screen trim panel (housing the check panel) A pretty straight forward job. No pics though sorry

Return of the shark nose!

Wasn't aware of so many either Richard. A few I have not seen but most are mainstream. None look to be cheap ass brands though