hotwire

Just ring a local dealer.

BMW stealers

Prolly cause they are pretty much the only major (relatively) company that is still stand alone, rather than having been absorbed into the other conglomerates

Get both!

I revalued the "agreed" value for the E39 at the last policy renewel - AMI. It had been sitting at about 12K so was way over the top for current market. In discussion with them I was told that they would pay out the agreed value as that agreed was agreed - dunno that I would have held true if push had come to shove at 12k. They left it to me to nominate the price I wanted to agree at, cant recall offhand what that is but is about 2-3k up on an average e39, based on if sh*t happened - I would want to get another car of equal standard - much better than most of them around. Then they just charged me accordingly.

Get it checked by an instrument repair outfit. Actually PM me for someone in CC that can check it

Interesting, most people go for A/C delete in an E30. You have the easy parts sorted, now to get the dash out & fit the internals & plumbing.

Dunno, the E12 runs a fair bit too - looks similar to the E39 from behind. Typical of independent rear end.

Compression test will probably not reveal, you need to do a leak down test.

No different to fitting any other brake shoes. Grab the springs with side cutters & pull them into place

Leaking head gasket between compression & cooling possibly? Leak down test to confirm.

Get them to recheck it & explain what you have said here. Its not rocket science in an E30 to check current draw. That said sometimes things can be intermittent. Get them to check the aerial circuit - maybe its wired incorrectly, would be a constant drain though. Otherwise a faulty aerial?

Unless it is a random, intermittent current draw then it should be easy for an Auto Sparky to diagnose/confirm. Seems strange to me they cant. You need to discuss your thoughts with them - tis nigh on impossible to diagnose over the net. No there should not be continuous ticking though. Current draw will flatten a battery but not "kill" it, unless its old & past it.

Sign up to NZ Post's Youshop. You will pay realistic shipping then.

Blaaaaa, just spewed

Great work Glenn, looks great. well done! Dunno how many fish you will catch in a car park though

^^^^ Yep not sure why the powers that be haven't made it manditory to maintain them if OEM fitted by now - considering the emissions requirements on vehicle imports now. And yes - there will be a drone when deleting cats with a piece of pipe in place of.

As per my message to you

Talk to Greg - " Camera Doctor" on here PM me for his details if you want

Great updates Tom. Good on you I envy your ability with this stuff

Funny, gauge i our car has always read about right. Obviously "some" of them are ok

Andy - it won't be the pump. Some, not all of the series E30's suffer this on R/H corners once the fuel gets down to 1/2 - 2/3's of a tank. No ryme nor reason as to which car does/doesn't suffer this. It almost seems like a cavitation issue - I have beaten down a slight depression in the tank at the bottom of the swirl pot - improved the issue somewhat. Pressure & flow is perfect. I need to run a full tank to make weight so it has been a problem in races. That said, it is on practice days - as was last Friday week at Taupo. No wheel spin - you aint driving it hard enough

Regardless of what has happened - it needs removal & checking. Could be a collapsed bearing - causing a short in the stator - maybe...

Yes you can import any vehicle. any condition. BUT unless it meets the emission requirements stated above then NO - it cannot be registered here. I think you will be pushing the preverbiel uphill to be able to retrofit later emissions equipment to a non compliant car & get it accepted. I suggest your only "possible" route for a non compliant car will be SIV

^^^^ Ha was just thinking the same myself!